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Carat Jump seat installation
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Roadhound
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 10, 2010 9:45 am    Post subject: Carat Jump seat installation Reply with quote

What is the best way to line everything up so the jump seat just"clicks" in?

Would someone please shoot me a picture of their Carat jump seats with the driver seat all the way back (toward the rear). Especially concerned with top of the seat and the "rake" of the seat when the seat is down.

I am installing '90 Carat jumps seats into my '86 syncro GL

TIA
Neil
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 10, 2010 11:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not certain if this answers your question (and it's a passenger side set-up), but with the front seats all the way back and in a moderate recline (2-3 'notches'), there is just enough clearance between the two seats to slide a finger through. The top of the front seat is higher than the jump seat due to the height difference between front and back, and thus there is no interference. Hope that helps, and ask away if it doesn't.

You can see the height difference in this shot. The passenger seat is all the way back. The jump seat occupant's head does not make contact with the front seat at all.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


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Roadhound
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 9:04 am    Post subject: Thank you...... Reply with quote

Could you snap a picture of the mounting bracket and is there any angle of the seat posts going into the floor or is it 90 degrees

If anyone has the driverside install it would be appreciated
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 12, 2010 7:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm not sure about the angle exactly, but on my install it didn't wind up at 90 degrees. Someone may be able to provide exact measurements for a stock set-up with stock floors, but If you've made any mods (wood floors, rubber mats, carpets) you've changed the geometry. I've got wood floors under a carpet, so my numbers are different.

I just kinda test-fir, measured, marked, re test fit, etc, until I got brave enough to drill. It clicks in place nicely.

On my install the passenger seat has to be slid forward a couple of notches to clear the jumpseat. Not a problem for me since the wife always has "her" seat a few clicks forward anyway.

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[/img]
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syncrodoka
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 7:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

5 7/8" from the base of the driver/passenger seat pedestal to the center of the jump seat base mount points.
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 9:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yeah neil ...id just put a picnic bench back there
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Robw_z
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 14, 2010 1:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The way I did this is install the top bracket first... I had a jumpseat van to reference measurements from... I just eyeballed it didn't even measure honestly. But once the top bracket is in just click in the seat and put in the bottom retainers(JB welded nuts for me) accordingly.

I wouldn't worry about the "rake" as that would be tough to screw up. Long as the vertical bars that hold up the seat are parallel to the sheet metal behind the seat and perpendicular to the floor, you're golden. Don't overthink it.

Also note that you will have to Jack up the front, remove the tire, and remove the fuel expansion tank(one bolt iirc) before drilling.

-Rob
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syncrodoka
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 14, 2010 5:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't forget that the gas tank is right under the lower mounts too.
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 14, 2010 7:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Robw_z wrote:
The way I did this is install the top bracket first... I had a jumpseat van to reference measurements from... I just eyeballed it didn't even measure honestly. But once the top bracket is in just click in the seat and put in the bottom retainers(JB welded nuts for me) accordingly.


I found it easier to do this in reverse. I installed the retainers to the floor first, held the seat into position, and was able to get the top bracket perfectly aligned. The legs of the seat are 90* to the floor and parallel with the back of the front seat pedestal.
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JeffRobenolt
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 14, 2010 1:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

X2 on the floor mounts first.

Instead of a 5/8 nut I used the metal spacer from the shock mount, cut it in half. The diameter is perfect.
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syncrodoka
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 14, 2010 4:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Look at what is hiding right under the innermost lower mount for the driver's side jump seat- The sending unit and gas tank Shocked Don't get too crazy when welding in the lower inner mounts.
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Timwhy
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 15, 2011 5:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looking for something at Lowes the other day to use as a guide for the floor mounts,
other than the 5/8" nuts that people are using. I came across these bronze flange
bearing. The 1/2" hole fits perfectly to the bottom of the jump seat bracket points.
When I slid them onto the points there's about 1/16" showing through the bottom.
Seams like it will be a good fit too from the bottom up through the plywood floor.

What I plan on doing is using a 3/4" forstner bit on the floor to drill the holes for
these flange bearings. Once I have them in a correct position, it should be easier to
mount the back of seat bracket.
Not sure if bronze can be welded or not, maybe there's some of these bearings made
out of steel somewhere?
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syncrodoka
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 15, 2011 8:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Only one of the original lower mounts is a circle, the other is a oval to make it a easier reinstallation of the jumpseat.
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 15, 2011 2:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

syncrodoka wrote:
Only one of the original lower mounts is a circle, the other is a oval to make it a easier reinstallation of the jumpseat.


Reinstallation into its original postion in a van that came equiped with a JS or two?

Either way the bushing that I have pictured works on both sides of the seat supports.
When they have the plastic end attached. One of the JS I have is missing that plastic
piece. That would make its insatllation on that side that is missing a smaller diameter
mount. The 1/2" fits like a glove on both sides of the other seat.
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syncrodoka
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 15, 2011 6:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Vans that were factory equipped with jumpseats always got a pair of them.
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 16, 2011 3:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another question I have is: The JS that I bought came with all the hardware and seatbelts.
The hardware consists off seatbelts, bracket and 4 small bolts/washers and bolt caps.
Is it safe to assume that these bolts are all that held in the bracket and seatbelt recoil?
Meaning no nuts to be removed from the donar van as they were/are welded to
the van? So, I will have to make my own backing plate and will need maybe longer
bolts and the nuts to go with them?
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 16, 2011 6:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Timwhy wrote:
Not sure if bronze can be welded or not, maybe there's some of these bearings made
out of steel somewhere?

You can't weld bronze! Copy what VW did, now there's pics up. You know it'll be strong enough if it was ok for Hannover...
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 16, 2011 6:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Timwhy wrote:
Another question I have is: The JS that I bought came with all the hardware and seatbelts.
The hardware consists off seatbelts, bracket and 4 small bolts/washers and bolt caps.
Is it safe to assume that these bolts are all that held in the bracket and seatbelt recoil?
Meaning no nuts to be removed from the donar van as they were/are welded to
the van? So, I will have to make my own backing plate and will need maybe longer
bolts and the nuts to go with them?


Yes, you'll make your own backing plate and collect your own nuts and bolts. You'll want to find bolts in lengths that don't leave much, if any, threaded space past the nut. With the expansion tank on the opposite side theres not a lot of extra room. I would also recommend some sort of locking fastener like Nyloc nuts to keep things tight.
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Timwhy
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 17, 2011 4:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

First really nice day here in a very long time. Got a chance to do some of the drilling on
the JS bracket holes in the battery box as well as in the floor. If tomorrow is also nice I'll
finish the other side? The hardest holes to dril were not even in the Van but the passenger
area rubber mat. Not so much as to where the holes were going to be but the wierd feeling
that I was defeating the purpose of the mat by drilling holes into it. Ok, I'm over it!
I even let my dog Rooney take the new JS for a test drive. He made a soft spot in
it by scratching around in a circle until the seat felt good to him then he laid down on it.
If it passes the Rooney test it must be a keeper.
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Timwhy
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 18, 2011 3:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Finished the JS bracket install. Droped the expansion tank and did loosen up the gas filler
pipe but didn't take it off to drill the holes (no need to in my case).
That sheet metal couldn't be any thinner there on the side where I drilled the holes.
Didn't need to jack up the van or take off the tire either. I put the SS bolts with larger
fender washers through the front to the rear, so the bolt heads are behind the
expansion tank and nuts are on the inside of the van. Thought that this would be better
than trimming any threads that were sticking out, so the ET would sit back where
it was originally. I am satisfied with the results and took my first test drive of the JS,
comfortable!
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