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Studt's 73 Samba Member
Joined: April 09, 2010 Posts: 145 Location: Pacific, Missouri
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Posted: Mon Jul 12, 2010 4:13 pm Post subject: Fiberglassing HElp |
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Alright, I'm restoring a rusted 73 Bay and need some advice with fiberglassing and paint the camper top. My wife is done teaching for the summer and isn't allowed to use power-tools anymore after a recent Bus restoration accident, but that's for another time. She is starting with the front section of the camper top;
We're wanting to close the hole in the center so we can put a solar panel there. If anyone has some advice on how to close the opening, what materials to use, and how to paint it, that would be great. |
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towd Samba Member
Joined: June 20, 2005 Posts: 2458
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Posted: Mon Jul 12, 2010 4:57 pm Post subject: |
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the last thing you want to do is close it up ,,>> IF <<< a solar panel is going there, of course unless you plan on buying a under water solar panel.. |
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towd Samba Member
Joined: June 20, 2005 Posts: 2458
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Posted: Mon Jul 12, 2010 6:49 pm Post subject: |
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some real tips on F/G.. The resien, it has a shelf life of 6 mons, after that it take a very long time to set... like weeks compared to hrs. Buying for a store as wal mart so on. You have no idea how old that can might be...
cal around to small local F/G places, the ones that maybe do camper shells, small boat places what ever talk to them, you may find a place that will shoot it.
I have a guy near me, I take a buggy body do all the prep work, fill the really big holes, fad up any form I need, ect,, take the body in they shoot the glass.. They charge by the onuce used, By doing this my time is cut way down , alot less mess at home... sometime I will lay mat over there chopper gun..
something like you want,, I would sand the hell out of the area over the hole, rough it up that gel coat.. use 1/8 plywood/paneling to close up the hole. lay plastic over the wood, then tape that to the rack from the bottom.. They may put release over that,,
from there they can tell you how they would want to do it.. I would want to shoot a layer of glass, lay matt, roll the matt in then one more shot of glass. roll that.. done deal.
I'm sure you won't even want to get into replacing gel coat,, just paint it heavy, and she has that roof top tub. |
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Studt's 73 Samba Member
Joined: April 09, 2010 Posts: 145 Location: Pacific, Missouri
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Posted: Mon Jul 12, 2010 7:04 pm Post subject: |
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towd wrote: |
the last thing you want to do is close it up ,,>> IF <<< a solar panel is going there, of course unless you plan on buying a under water solar panel.. |
Actually, the first thing that I want to do is to close the hole up. After 20+ years of being in the elements, the entire void under the top was full of, well, nests, about a 15 gallon trash bag full. I guess I shold have explained that I do Plan on recessing two drain holes (one on each side) with a hose attached to it in order for the water to drain. Once I removed the top, there were some bad rust spots that were cut out, filled, and sanded smoth again. If the top has proper drainage, there "should" be no standing water and I would be able to use a flexable panel rather than an underwater panel. There are also some spidering cracks on the front, should those be sanded and then filled with a fiberglass filler, or is there something better for that? I also need to know about painting the fiberglass. I'm looking to paint it more of a white color, but want something that will hold up to UV so it won't fade, would a boat type paint be the best? |
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busdaddy Samba Member

Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 52578 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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Posted: Mon Jul 12, 2010 7:45 pm Post subject: |
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Google repairing a hole in a fiberglass boat, same process.
There's a painting the pop top thread here somewhere as well but the end concensus is boat paint, Google that too. _________________ Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
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Studt's 73 Samba Member
Joined: April 09, 2010 Posts: 145 Location: Pacific, Missouri
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babysnakes Samba Member

Joined: August 19, 2008 Posts: 7148
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Posted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 8:24 am Post subject: |
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Gel coat is the best choice. If the cracks are very small the gel coat will fill them. If they rather large, there is a powder you mix with the resin to fill the gaps. To adhere the new fiberglass to the old, Give it a quick wipe with acetone,not too much though. Find a local boat supply house.Most have all you will need. I've done a few canoe repairs,small boat transom rebuilds. It's quite easy. Buy a box of latex gloves. |
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78Kombi Samba Member

Joined: October 05, 2006 Posts: 1043 Location: Western Mass
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Posted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 8:38 am Post subject: Re: Fiberglassing HElp |
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Studt's 73 wrote: |
Alright, I'm restoring a rusted 73 Bay and need some advice with fiberglassing and paint the camper top. My wife is done teaching for the summer and isn't allowed to use power-tools anymore after a recent Bus restoration accident, but that's for another time. She is starting with the front section of the camper top;
We're wanting to close the hole in the center so we can put a solar panel there. If anyone has some advice on how to close the opening, what materials to use, and how to paint it, that would be great. |
its not worth your time / money / effort to try to learn the process of fiberglassing , cus it will not come out good, You can buy another front piece way cheaper with far less headaches..
I know cus I cut out the vent in my hightop, did all thr research and bought over $100 worth of materials, spent a good 15 hrs and nope, brought it to a guy..then paid him.. _________________ 78 hightop 2.0 FI
Wildthings wrote: |
no engine that I know of will run off of hype.
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Studt's 73 Samba Member
Joined: April 09, 2010 Posts: 145 Location: Pacific, Missouri
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Posted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 9:49 am Post subject: |
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You said it yourself, it took you 15 hours because you didn't know what you were doing. I build cedar strip canoes and kayaks and have to do something called "glassing." Glassing is using a sheet of fiberglass material to seal the entire surface at one time, and is pretty easy to learn. A project like this should only take about 2-3 hours, not including the painting. I already have all the materials for it, just not the paint. I was also wondering about using a fiberglass resin to fill the opening once I have a sub-surface to fill on or if I should apply a few sheets of fiberglass to build it up. Usually when people buy a bus that needs to be restored they are fully aware that there will be time and money involved. Plus, why would you want to buy a new one? It's not going to be original, and everyone knows that most of the mass produced parts are not even close to the original quality that came on the buses. |
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78Kombi Samba Member

Joined: October 05, 2006 Posts: 1043 Location: Western Mass
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Posted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 10:34 am Post subject: |
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Studt's 73 wrote: |
You said it yourself, it took you 15 hours because you didn't know what you were doing. I build cedar strip canoes and kayaks and have to do something called "glassing." Glassing is using a sheet of fiberglass material to seal the entire surface at one time, and is pretty easy to learn. A project like this should only take about 2-3 hours, not including the painting. I already have all the materials for it, just not the paint. I was also wondering about using a fiberglass resin to fill the opening once I have a sub-surface to fill on or if I should apply a few sheets of fiberglass to build it up. Usually when people buy a bus that needs to be restored they are fully aware that there will be time and money involved. Plus, why would you want to buy a new one? It's not going to be original, and everyone knows that most of the mass produced parts are not even close to the original quality that came on the buses. |
had you mentioned that you had experience, then my response would have been different. have fun! _________________ 78 hightop 2.0 FI
Wildthings wrote: |
no engine that I know of will run off of hype.
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raygreenwood Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2008 Posts: 23017 Location: Oklahoma City
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Posted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 10:41 am Post subject: |
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Its also worthwhile to buy some proffesional release film with or without the single layer fiberglass matting on it. In this way you can flatten the work by hand with the release fuilm between your hand and glove. Just leave the release film on until it dries them peel it off. You get a much more compact and uniform surface. Ray |
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werksberg Samba Member

Joined: February 08, 2005 Posts: 2162 Location: Green Valley, AZ
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Posted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 12:57 pm Post subject: |
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Studt's 73 wrote: |
Plus, why would you want to buy a new one? It's not going to be original, and everyone knows that most of the mass produced parts are not even close to the original quality that came on the buses. |
Wrong....have you seen an OEM '68 - '73 luggage rack with open hole and rusty steel bars?
Any my new production luggage rack with proper gel coat surface, full bottom with ribs for stiffeners and HD Nichrome tied downs too....
The OEM ones was a FG mat pulled into a clam shell alum molds which clamped down and resin was injection in. That is why the FG ends are exposure which mild dews or leaves holes in a painted coating.....the OEM parts are worst in quality (do to mass production) than these hand made ones.
The early bay Pop top mold is done, but some personal deals (divorce) has me busy. Plus I need to find a better idea for the wood you staple the canvas too.
I was going to be re-making the late Bay and Vanagons too...but this economy has put a damper on them at this time.
To OP, I used to have lots of peel ply here but I gave it to my fg shop doing my parts. I might will have to get up there next week.... _________________ Werksberg Products....Products that work!
Follow my new products on my Facebook Werks Berg
Click the below ADs link for products & feedback.
Search "werksberg" on Photobucket for products photos & Please remember to buy "American made products!" |
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babysnakes Samba Member

Joined: August 19, 2008 Posts: 7148
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Posted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 2:24 pm Post subject: |
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I build cedar strip canoes |
Then why am I giving you advice? I have always wanted to build a ceder strip canoe. Plans can be a bit pricey. I've managed to squirrel away about 30' of rough cut 2X12s. I've got table saw and router ready to go. Just got to steal some time.  |
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Studt's 73 Samba Member
Joined: April 09, 2010 Posts: 145 Location: Pacific, Missouri
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Posted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 6:09 pm Post subject: |
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babysnakes wrote: |
Quote: |
I build cedar strip canoes |
Then why am I giving you advice? I have always wanted to build a ceder strip canoe. Plans can be a bit pricey. I've managed to squirrel away about 30' of rough cut 2X12s. I've got table saw and router ready to go. Just got to steal some time.  |
Now now, strip canoes aren't VW's, that's for sure! There is actually a good source out that, www.blueherionkayaks.com. You can download a program called "kayak foundry" for free and it will let you design all your own boats for free. But, you still need a way to get you strips made and all that good stuff.
And yes I have seen the rusted bars, that's what I pulled off my bus. I can show you a picture of the bucket full of rusted parts.
I'm going to be rehabbing the entire top, new paint, patching hole, the whole nine yards. If you guys would like me to document the entire process with pictures I would be more than happy, just let me know. |
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babysnakes Samba Member

Joined: August 19, 2008 Posts: 7148
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Posted: Wed Jul 14, 2010 2:10 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks for n the link, I'll look it up tonight.I have the material (or most anyway) And the tools to make the strips. I worked in a cabinet shop for a while so I kinda know the ropes. Now to the bus. Don't use marine grade plywood as what it is treated with is not fiberglass friendly. You can use regular ply but sanding ply works best. You have storage space in that area. How about crafting a hinged lid that is flush with the top that the panel rests in. You could store smaller items that don't mind the water. And fiberglass on the bus is no different than fiberglass on a boat. It's just matching the color if that is important to you. |
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aliennetwork Samba Member

Joined: May 27, 2009 Posts: 458 Location: Aiken, SC
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Posted: Fri Jul 16, 2010 6:11 am Post subject: |
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That luggage rack looks way skinny. is that from a westy or something else? _________________ M-Plate
Desertbusman wrote: |
So if you carry a spare starter it will be some other part you don't carry that will fail. Just tow a spare bus. |
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werksberg Samba Member

Joined: February 08, 2005 Posts: 2162 Location: Green Valley, AZ
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Posted: Fri Jul 16, 2010 7:58 am Post subject: |
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aliennetwork wrote: |
That luggage rack looks way skinny. is that from a westy or something else? |
Are you typing about my new production earlier Bay luggage racks?
Yes, they have a genuine HD white gel coat is applied into the mold first before the fiberglass & resin is laid in.....so you have a great surface finish that will last a lot longer.
No problems like the OEM compression molded and resin injection process luggage racks have. _________________ Werksberg Products....Products that work!
Follow my new products on my Facebook Werks Berg
Click the below ADs link for products & feedback.
Search "werksberg" on Photobucket for products photos & Please remember to buy "American made products!" |
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busdaddy Samba Member

Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 52578 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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Posted: Fri Jul 16, 2010 8:16 am Post subject: |
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aliennetwork wrote: |
That luggage rack looks way skinny. is that from a westy or something else? |
The OP's rack is Riviera. _________________ Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
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aliennetwork Samba Member

Joined: May 27, 2009 Posts: 458 Location: Aiken, SC
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Posted: Fri Jul 16, 2010 8:17 am Post subject: |
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No, I've been eyeballing your work. Nice, but too pricey for me now.
I was talking about the very first picture. My luggage rack is square, that is a rectangle. Looks way thinner in the opening, mine looks longer. _________________ M-Plate
Desertbusman wrote: |
So if you carry a spare starter it will be some other part you don't carry that will fail. Just tow a spare bus. |
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aliennetwork Samba Member

Joined: May 27, 2009 Posts: 458 Location: Aiken, SC
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Posted: Fri Jul 16, 2010 8:18 am Post subject: |
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thanks, BD. _________________ M-Plate
Desertbusman wrote: |
So if you carry a spare starter it will be some other part you don't carry that will fail. Just tow a spare bus. |
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