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Heat exchanger restoration
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type11969
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 17, 2008 1:24 pm    Post subject: Heat exchanger restoration Reply with quote

After taking a look at the couple of rusted areas on my heat exchangers and what seems to be a half quart of oil that has made it in to each, I decided to split them open to clean them out (no oily smelling heat!) and to make the welding repairs easier. I notched the joining flanges with a cutoff wheel every inch or so to aid in lining the halves back up and then I ground off the folded over flap. Here is the end result, after a decent amount of scrubbing:

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Does anyone know what the thick mesh material is on the aluminum U that sits in the exchanger half like so:

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I'd like to replace it, it has absorbed a lot of oil and can't easily be cleaned without shredding it.

Definitely have my work cut out for me to get these repaired and back together but the increased heat output and decreased smell certainly will be worth it.

-Chris
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keifernet
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 17, 2008 1:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Try a thick "roven woven" type "heat wrap" material you can get at marine outlet type places to heat wrap hot pipes on marine engines. If you can't locate it local LMK I live in an area of S.TX with plenty of boat/yacht stores that sell the stuff...
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 17, 2008 1:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The mesh is asbestos based IIRC, try soaking it in warm Simple green for a day or 2. Or look at header wrap or wood stove gasket as a replacement.
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type11969
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 17, 2008 1:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've got some header wrap lying around that I was thinking about using but I don't think it is this woven rope variety you speak of . . . I will look around, thanks for the tip.

-Chris
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 17, 2008 1:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wish someone would make some new SS covers or at least some repair pieces for around the pipes. Every air leak counts. Sad
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2008 11:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Somebody really should make replacement heat exchanger clamshells, in stainless or regular even. More people would have the ability to weld carbon steel clamshells together than stainless. I have been toying with the idea of making some, but trying to design them so that you don’t need a million bucks worth of press dies is challenging. They seem like they would be simple to make something crude, but they are actually pretty intricate. I think if a person waterjet or laser cut some sheet stock correctly, they should press into place with a wooden die and a bottle jack, then you could just weld up the seams. I estimate that the material and waterjetting should cost about $140 for all four halves, maybe a bit less if you made a bunch. Lets say 45 minutes to weld all 4 halves into shape. If I were making these I would charge like $220 for a set of 4 heat exchanger halves that you weld together over your existing manifolds.

Really though, the people that are already making heat exchangers should just sell the clamshells. Apparently the aluminum castings on the new manifolds are the part that sucks, so it would be the best of both worlds, if you had good manifolds but rusty jackets.
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type11969
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2008 12:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think the clamshells could be replicated pretty easily if you were willing to sacrifice originality and maybe some functionality. For instance if the blower motor attachments were ditched that would simplify the clamshells. And if the lead off to the heater tubes wasn't as nicely contoured (imagine a straight tube going out as opposed to the nice sloping contoured sheet metal). Finally if the attachment to the fan housing could somehow be made with silicon tubing (an adapter of some sort to change the shroud attachment to a circular shape maybe), that would bring the clamshell down to basically 2 formed Us with tube inlets/exits and, of course, the formed flanges to go around the actual exhaust manifold. I think that would be pretty easy and inexpensive to make.

-Chris
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2008 4:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is that mesh exposed to the air stream that flows into the cabin? If so, is there a risk here?

What year were these exchangers from?
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type11969
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2008 4:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

From a 76. The mesh isn't directly in the flow path, it surrounds that aluminum tin and that tin caps off the channels in the aluminum casting that goes around the manifold. Those channels are the flow path. Indirectly, yes, they are in the flow path. But my guess is that the .5 quarts of oil in anyone's heat exchangers poses more of a carcinogen risk than the potential asbestos in that mesh.

-Chris
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2008 5:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

my guess is that stuff insulates the hot air flow from the outside of the heaterboxes. could probably just replace it with woven FG mat?
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type11969
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2008 5:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm replacing mine with asbestos free header wrap . . . dont think it is necessary but while I am in there . . . .
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2008 6:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hiya All,

Very interesting!

Has anybody tried disassembling a Type 1 heat exchanger for clean-out and renewal? I've been thinking about that and was just wondering if anybody out there in Sambaland had already "been there, done that" and had any tips.
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type11969
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2008 6:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would think that the integration of the control valve in the t1 exchangers would make it a bit more complicated but in the end, it is just sheet metal so it probably isn't too complicated.

-Chris
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2008 6:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hiya Chris,

My thoughts exactly.

Just wondering if anybody actually had pulled a T1 heat excahnger apart. I'm a big believer in not having to reinvent the wheel.
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2008 8:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bookwus wrote:
Hiya All,

Very interesting!

Has anybody tried disassembling a Type 1 heat exchanger for clean-out and renewal? I've been thinking about that and was just wondering if anybody out there in Sambaland had already "been there, done that" and had any tips.


Years ago I remember seeing new tins for T1 exchangers. Haven't seem them recently though, but I have never looked either. Once I bought a T4 I never looked back. Wink
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 17, 2010 6:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My heat exchangers are GRIMY! Is there a way for me to clean the insides, that appear to be covered in a layer of oil and grime, without taking them apart? Can I take them to a machine shop for a hot bath? Can I safely do something myself to save a few bucks? Thanks Very Happy
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type11969
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 17, 2010 6:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think if you soaked the whole exchanger in hot water mixed with some simple green, etc, then followed up with some blasts of water through it, you might get some of that gunk out. But . . .

The consensus is that there is asbestos in the matting inside the heat exchangers . . . I'm not sure you would want to disturb it in this way.

-Chris
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 17, 2010 6:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, that's kind of what I figured....I have gone a few winters without heat....why start now?? Wink
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type11969
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 17, 2010 6:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Take em apart, pull the asbestos out with the exchanger under water, use fiberglass matting instead (think exhaust header wrap cut into strips), and put them back together. Fix any pinholes, etc while you are at it, and paint the inside with some high temp paint. You can carefully unfold and then re-fold the crimp . . . I just cut off the crimp and tacked mine back together.

Having heat is nice!

-Chris
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 17, 2010 8:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

type11969 wrote:
Take em apart, pull the asbestos out with the exchanger under water, use fiberglass matting instead (think exhaust header wrap cut into strips), and put them back together. Fix any pinholes, etc while you are at it, and paint the inside with some high temp paint. You can carefully unfold and then re-fold the crimp . . . I just cut off the crimp and tacked mine back together.

Having heat is nice!

-Chris

Laughing Yeah...having heat this winter would be nice....I'd like to drive from Atl to Durango, CO this winter.....heat might make the trip a bit more comfortable and the $300 price tag on new ones Shocked aint goin to happen anytime soon. I will tinker with them this weekend and see what i can come up with....still need one accordian tube for the passenger side and rehook the flaps that control heat flow.....plus I want to get my engine back in....want want want....got to decide what i need Brick wall
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