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Zenith + SVDA?
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Chad1376
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 22, 2010 1:29 pm    Post subject: Zenith + SVDA? Reply with quote

So I've had it with my 34 ICTs in the dirt - the constant float bowl flooding is driving me nuts. I'm thinking of simplifying my life by going with a single center mount carb.

I'd really like to find a rebuildable Zenith and start cleaning it up, but I don't want to give up my SVDA distributor. Is it even possible to tap the Zenith for vacuum? I searched and didn't find anything, so I'm guessing the answer is no, but I thought I'd check first.
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 22, 2010 1:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can look at my NOS one.

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Bruce Amacker
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 23, 2010 9:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am also considering this task for my 2180/32NDIX. I have a couple of spare 32NDIX's and I bought an extra baseplate/throttle plate off of Ebay, I may try drilling it myself for a vacuum tap sometime this year and installing a vacuum advance distributor. I still have a hard time understanding why all of the engine builders recommend a mechanical only advance on the street. In my experience, a dual advance is best on the street.....
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Chad1376
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 23, 2010 10:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bruce Amacker wrote:
I am also considering this task for my 2180/32NDIX. I have a couple of spare 32NDIX's and I bought an extra baseplate/throttle plate off of Ebay, I may try drilling it myself for a vacuum tap sometime this year and installing a vacuum advance distributor. I still have a hard time understanding why all of the engine builders recommend a mechanical only advance on the street. In my experience, a dual advance is best on the street.....


If I knew for sure it could be tapped, and it worked, I'd be all over getting one of these. It seems like someone must have have already tried this over the course of 40+ years. Being that there haven't been 20 replies saying "no dummy, it's done all the time" makes me paranoid there might be a good reason why it can't be done. Confused
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Bruce Amacker
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 23, 2010 11:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Common sense tells me that it has to work, as it has on many millions of autos built in the last century, and millions of stock ACVW's. The only thing that needs research is WHERE the port is drilled in relation to the throttle plate. I'm guessing 1/16" to 1/8" above the throttle plate (in the idle position) so it gets the most vacuum at part throttle, where cruising is. I have a bunch of carbs laying around that I'll look at.
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73AZ
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 09, 2010 3:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am really interested in this too.

I plan to run a Zenith and would like to use the SVDA too, any info you guys find about this mod would be a huge contribution to the community.
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 09, 2010 4:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you ever thought about using a single Weber IDF.
Most have a vacuum port on them.
It was the carb that replaced the Zenith for off road racing.
Easier to get parts for a Weber.
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 09, 2010 4:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why not ask John at AC.net and Art Thraen? John knows the SVDA, Art knows the Zenith. They work next door to each other, maybe you can convince them to stick their heads together and come up with something.

Kyle
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 09, 2010 8:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

kyle_pc_75 wrote:
Why not ask John at AC.net and Art Thraen? John knows the SVDA, Art knows the Zenith. They work next door to each other, maybe you can convince them to stick their heads together and come up with something.

Kyle


Art did my 32NDIX and I wanted him to put a vac advance fitting in it while it was apart. He wanted nothing to do with it. Other than that, the carb/car runs AWESOME. It seems like he nailed the jetting but I haven't put a A/F on it to verify.

This could be a can of worms, because HOW MUCH vacuum at a given throttle and RPM is obviously very critical, plus this vacuum "curve" must be matched to a distributor to give "the right" advance and not too much. I can't blame him (much) for declining.

For example, I recently was playing with a '66 1300 with a 30PICT and the correct vacuum-only advance distributor. This thing gave 32* total advance at only 4"Hg! That's a hell of a lot of advance at only 4 inches of mercury! Now think of how sensitive these systems are and how hard it would be to dial in the right amount of vacuum and the right amount of advance at a given throttle angle. I'm sure this was all going through Art's mind when he declined....
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kyle_pc_75
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 09, 2010 9:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bruce Amacker wrote:
Art did my 32NDIX and I wanted him to put a vac advance fitting in it while it was apart. He wanted nothing to do with it.


Good enough for me. Very Happy

Kyle
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thesatelliteguy
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 12, 2010 10:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So what do you do? Plug the vac. advance on the dizzy?
Or keep/get a 009?
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 12, 2010 11:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

jsturtlebuggy wrote:
Have you ever thought about using a single Weber IDF.
Most have a vacuum port on them.
It was the carb that replaced the Zenith for off road racing.
Easier to get parts for a Weber.


Careful on that statement... only "late" production one have vacuum ports, there is thousands of early production units out there with no ports.... I have two sets, with no ports....

Dale
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 12, 2010 11:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So to the OP, cant you vent the bowls on 34 ict's? I have made this modification to all the carbs I have used offroad, including Holley Bugspray, Weber 40 idf, and yes even a Zenith 32, in all cases its a matter of adding a tube or fitting to the vent at the top of the carburetor, this should help
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 12, 2010 11:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

joemama wrote:
So to the OP, cant you vent the bowls on 34 ict's? I have made this modification to all the carbs I have used offroad, including Holley Bugspray, Weber 40 idf, and yes even a Zenith 32, in all cases its a matter of adding a tube or fitting to the vent at the top of the carburetor, this should help


I'm pretty sure the answer is "No". Last time I had my ICTs apart, I looked and the bowl vent is connected to a few internal circuits. I have another post here somewhere to find out if it can be done, but no-one has tried it.

The car runs great 95% of the time. It's just the 5% when I'm on whoops or going up a steep hill that it's a PITA. I've learned when to hold the throttle WFO to clear the gas and keep the car running. I'll swap stuff around one of these days, but it's not top priority.
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