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Finally installed 1776cc engine!!!!! Update...
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volky1970
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 18, 2010 5:56 pm    Post subject: Finally installed 1776cc engine!!!!! Update... Reply with quote

Good day,

After a few years, 3 to be exact, I mounted the engine on Saturday. Like they say, "once you have a baby your life changes", well I guess it did. A build that was going to take me a few months took me more than that.

Anyway, the engine is a 1776cc with:
Completely balanced...
40mm IDF carbs
Comp. ratio of 8.3:1
Engle 110 cam
C/W crank 69mm
New Doghouse shroud, tins and oil cooler (a little modding was needed but I succeeded) Wink
Full flow/oil filter
Kennedy stage 1 p/p
Port & polished stock heads
Solid shaft rockers with 1.1:1 rockers
BMD pulley system
1.5 Berg oil sump
AEM wideband sensor
1 1/2" ceramic coated header with s/s muffler
009 dist.

and some other stuff I just forgot... Shocked

I will be turning it on this weekend, for the break-in procedure. Later, I will tune, so if anyone could chime in on weber tuning to get me in the ballpark it will be appreciated.
40mm idf with:
200
F11
115
50
28mm venturi

I set the floats to 10mm as per the "book".

Here are some pics:

AEM wideband gauge
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Left side engine
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Engine
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Rear
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Thanks.
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1970 Beetle Turbo 2109cc MS II EFI, W/M Injection, Intercooler, FORD Wasted Spark Coilpack, 48lb. Injectors.


Last edited by volky1970 on Mon Oct 25, 2010 9:04 am; edited 3 times in total
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Glenn Premium Member
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 18, 2010 5:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very nice.

I suggest getting a set of air filters on to keep the dirt out of the carbs.
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volky1970
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 18, 2010 6:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glenn,

Will do. Very Happy
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 18, 2010 6:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did you try shimming the fuel pump to adjust the fuel pressure?

That way you won't need the regulator.
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volky1970
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 18, 2010 6:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glenn,
No, the regulator was a gift from a friend and I had some AN fittings around so I put it on. Otherwise, I was going to shim.
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DarthWeber
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 18, 2010 6:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It might be just the camera angle but your links from the crossbar arms to the carbs appear to be at a rather extreem angle. I think they should be near vertical so as to open the carb throttles in an up and down fashon...if that makes sense. Maybe rotate the crossbar up and move the throttle cable arm down one flat on the hex bar?? Just saying, as it may cause unnecessary wear on the carbs. Motor looks real nice otherwise, interesting coil mount too!
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Mitey62 wrote:
Swapped the Compufire for a Bosch blue and some points I had sitting around, started 1st crank. Took her out for a drive, pulls harder, more RPM, and runs smoother. I think I'll be sticking with points from now on.

RockCrusher wrote:
JB weld the case halves....that'll keep the fretting to a minimum. Laughing
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volky1970
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 18, 2010 6:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Darth,
You are right with the webers, I have not sat down to correctly fit the hexbar. The coil mount is one of those Jaycee mounts and since I did not want to drill the shroud and had no more room I made an "L" shape base out of aluminum with my power tool "hacksaw" Crying or Very sad

Thanks for your input.
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jfats808
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 18, 2010 7:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Congrats brother! Take your time and do the break in correctly. You have bided your time this long and i applaud your patience. The general baseline formula i use is:
1.5 x intake valve size = ___ idles
4 x venturi size = ___ mains.

Looks like your right in the ball park. Your jetting should be good enough to break in with. After the break in you can read your plugs and adjust accordingly . Lastly, take care of all that spaghetti wiring with some wire loom and or zip ties.
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gt1953
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 18, 2010 8:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What's that thing at the merged header point?
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 18, 2010 9:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sensor for the wideband.
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volky1970
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 24, 2010 6:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

On Saturday I turned on the engine and it powered up quickly, thanks to all the books I read and of course every TheSamba member here.

It has a great sound to it. I can not ride it yet because the wheels I have deflate on an instant. A friend of mine is going to lend me his alloy wheels next Saturday.

Anyway, the engine broke in fine in my opinion. It starts up without any hesitation on idle and on revving.

Let's see how it does on the road. I believe I can test it on Saturday.

On shut off, a while later I found a leak on the old metal sump plate which was in bad condition. I did not change it before due to motor installation. Now I an going to buy one of those billet ones. ANY recommendations on that??? I was thinking on SCAT plates.

On ilde the wideband marked 10.6 or something. Any comments on that??? I haven't checked my books yet but any feedback is welcomed.

I took a video with the engine on since my neighbor did not turn on when I told him to. Oh well. Mad I'll try to put it somewhere in the net.

I hope it lasts!!! Shocked

Thanks to all,
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Last edited by volky1970 on Sat Nov 06, 2010 6:34 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Arnolds64
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 25, 2010 8:18 pm    Post subject: 10.6. Reply with quote

10.6 is fat at idle or is that lean? I can't remember but I am almost certain fat? What idles do you have? The equation there made for a 52 Idle jet with a 35mm valve. I have a 2017 and with my old 40's and an Engle 110 I ran 50 idles. I am going to a 130 and will probably use 55's.
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volky1970
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 26, 2010 6:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I believe that is fat like you say. I'll try to lean it out on the mixture screw like the book says, if not I will go down a size.

Thanks,
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volky1970
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 31, 2010 2:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good day,

I ran the car a bit and it was really rich. Right now I have no wheels again.

Can I play with the idle mixture screw without moving the car or do I have to run it. The screw is 1 1/2 out.

What RPM range was the idle jet?

Thanks,
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DarthWeber
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 31, 2010 2:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

volky1970 wrote:
I ran the car a bit and it was really rich. Right now I have no wheels again. Can I play with the idle mixture screw without moving the car or do I have to run it. The screw is 1 1/2 out. What RPM range was the idle jet?


Some one stole your wheels AGAIN!?! OH NO!!!! Shocked

You can fiddle with the mixture screws without driving the car but I have to say with your screws only 1 1/2 turns out and you say you're running #50 idle jets and it's running rich, I wonder if they really are #50 or did someone drill them out to a larger size? Do you have a means to check your jets actual size? Idle jets work up into the 2500-3k range.
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Mitey62 wrote:
Swapped the Compufire for a Bosch blue and some points I had sitting around, started 1st crank. Took her out for a drive, pulls harder, more RPM, and runs smoother. I think I'll be sticking with points from now on.

RockCrusher wrote:
JB weld the case halves....that'll keep the fretting to a minimum. Laughing
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miniman82
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 31, 2010 3:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

volky1970 wrote:
On ilde the wideband marked 10.6 or something. Any comments on that???



10 is fat for idle, but the actual number is irrelevant. At idle, you're shooting for smooth running with lowest MAP (or TPS) value at whatever timing value accompanies that. Anywhere from 12-18* timing at idle is normal. I just mess with timing/idle fuel/idle setscrew values to get the smoothest result, wherever AFR lands is what it needs. Shoot for high 12's/low 13's under heavy load, and 16's/17's at cruise.
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volky1970
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 31, 2010 4:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Miniman,

Got it.
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seanboy69
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 01, 2010 6:22 am    Post subject: Finally installed 1776cc engine!!!!! Update... Reply with quote

That is a good looking engine!!! Very clean. Cool
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volky1970
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 01, 2010 6:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good day,

The day I was breaking in the engine I saw a leak on the right valve cover. The next day I took it off and put in a new gasket ( the other one was new too). I took it for a ride and still has a leak.

On both occasions I put silicone on valve cover/gasket side. I noticed that the gasket does not cover much area on one of the corners causing it to leak.

The question is: Can the leak be caused by the clamp pressure not applying much force to withhold the oil inside?

These covers were the ones I had before the overhaul. They were chrome and I "dechromed" them. Now they look like S/S. No rust for months, yet. Shocked

If I were to change them, any brand in particular or just change the clamp or just bend the clamp a bit.

The other side never leaked.

Thanks people.
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 01, 2010 7:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

volky1970 wrote:
If I were to change them, any brand in particular or just change the clamp or just bend the clamp a bit.


Good ol stock German original valve covers and bales are still the best. You shouldn't be able to 'bend' the bale or clamp at all. If you can bend it it's cheap. You can bend OG bales but they will always spring back to original shape.
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Mitey62 wrote:
Swapped the Compufire for a Bosch blue and some points I had sitting around, started 1st crank. Took her out for a drive, pulls harder, more RPM, and runs smoother. I think I'll be sticking with points from now on.

RockCrusher wrote:
JB weld the case halves....that'll keep the fretting to a minimum. Laughing
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