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Stereo Install Help
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euromade
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 10, 2010 4:05 pm    Post subject: Stereo Install Help Reply with quote

Hi,
I've installed a number of stereos in cars that were made in the 90 and newer. Now I have a 77 Super Beetle Convt.
What do I need to know, and more importantly where to tap in for the constant and switched power.
Thanks!!!
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Wolfgangdieter
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 10, 2010 4:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Real easy on VW - fuse block is only 2 feet from radio. Use a cheap Volt Ohm Meter (VOM).
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Last edited by Wolfgangdieter on Wed Nov 10, 2010 6:20 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Froski
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 10, 2010 5:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

does anyone know offhand what size speaker fits in the dash
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Cusser
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 10, 2010 5:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Froski wrote:
does anyone know offhand what size speaker fits in the dash


What year, and Super? If you're putting in a "stereo" in a standard beetle, that dash speaker is for a mono radio. For stereo, mount speakers under dash, in kick panels (there are panels to buy for this), or in door panels.
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euromade
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 10, 2010 7:44 pm    Post subject: stereo Reply with quote

Forgot to mention, I've purchased those kick panel speaker shells from jbugs.com....so I will be installing a "stereo". Just looking for some guidance as far as tapping into the power source.
Thanks!
Cusser wrote:
Froski wrote:
does anyone know offhand what size speaker fits in the dash


What year, and Super? If you're putting in a "stereo" in a standard beetle, that dash speaker is for a mono radio. For stereo, mount speakers under dash, in kick panels (there are panels to buy for this), or in door panels.

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Cusser
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 10, 2010 9:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kick panels are best choice, those weren't invented when I did my underdash 71 Super speakers.
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1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297
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hellthorne
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 11, 2010 10:50 am    Post subject: Re: Stereo Install Help Reply with quote

euromade wrote:
Hi,
I've installed a number of stereos in cars that were made in the 90 and newer. Now I have a 77 Super Beetle Convt.
What do I need to know, and more importantly where to tap in for the constant and switched power.
Thanks!!!


I don't know how similar things are for a 77, but in my 1973 super, switched power is available from the supply wire to the #12 fuse. If you look at the top of the fuse panel, there are two green wires with a spade connector plugged into #12. For constant power, check the #8 or #9 fuses. I forget which one has constant power. I used 3M tap ins to get the switched power, but I have read that some people prefer double spade connectors.
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mondshine
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 12, 2010 11:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is how the radio is wired in my '71 Super.
A standard Bosch type relay switches the power.
Once the ignition is switched on, the radio will continue to operate with the ignition switched off until the key is removed.
The door buzzer works as originally intended.
The separable connection illustrated can be found at the driver's side "A pillar", near the trunk hinge.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


On the latest models, you may find that; instead of ground, you measure +12V at the gray/black wire coming from terminal SU of the ignition switch (after the ignition has been switched on, then off) with the key in. If so, wire it like this:


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Good luck, Mondshine


Last edited by mondshine on Fri Nov 12, 2010 1:31 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Joel
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 12, 2010 1:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's strange how on some the SU terminal on the ignition is negative, yet on all of mine they have been postive and can run straight to the radio without the need for a relay
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mondshine
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 12, 2010 1:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You're right Joel, sorry I left that out.
A relay might not be necessary, depending on the current draw of the radio, but I think it's better to protect the key contact in the ignition switch against switching a high current.
Best regards, Mondshine
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Joel
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 12, 2010 1:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The majority of headunits these days use the "memory" or constant power wire as the main power supply for the unit and just use the switched "ACC" wire as a trigger to turn it on so there's no real load there on the ignition switch of the vehicle.

Re. the SU terminal, I was just puzzled, maybe its an overseas thing as I've had this discussion before but mine the SU terminal which I think may only be marked S is 12 positive when the keys pushed in, not a negative one to the door switch like most US bugs seem to have.

All that happends on mine is the base of the key barrel pushes down on terminal 30 to create a circuit whenever the key is in.
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mondshine
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 12, 2010 3:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I believe the system chanced to SU being +12V when the seat belt warning light was added.
I've never actually dissected an ignition switch to see how the SU contact is actually made.
Using the SU contact is the best way to listen to the radio with the key off.
You're probably right about modern head units, I'm using a Retrosound, but wiring through the relay would be a good idea for a period Blaupunkt, Becker, etc.
Anyway, hopefully the OP will get it sorted.
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euromade
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 15, 2010 12:49 pm    Post subject: Is the the OEM vent pipe? Reply with quote

I'm about to install the speaker kick panel "shells".
On the driver's side of the vehicle and I found this "vent pipe" that goes from the "front trunk" and then it curves up and under the dash....
Is this a stock setup as it is in the way of the speaker kick panels only one the driver's side?
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


This is a 77 Super Convertible.
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Joel
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 15, 2010 1:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nope not stock, its the ducting from dealer fitted A/C
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euromade
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 15, 2010 2:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Joel wrote:
Nope not stock, its the ducting from dealer fitted A/C

Thanks....as there is no AC I guess this one is OK to remove, its a convertible anyhow, no need for it.
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lupin..the..3rd
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 15, 2010 3:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

euromade wrote:
Joel wrote:
Nope not stock, its the ducting from dealer fitted A/C

Thanks....as there is no AC I guess this one is OK to remove, its a convertible anyhow, no need for it.

Just wait until it's 95 degrees out... and pouring rain. I wish my vert had A/C!!
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