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How do you read engine Bearing Size?
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streetstock70
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 19, 2010 6:21 pm    Post subject: How do you read engine Bearing Size? Reply with quote

I took apart a engine but don't know what size bearings to order. The case is good(no wear,no line bore needed)Crank is good. Bearings look good except they show signs of needing replaced.(good grey color (PO had a piston break apart and had to limp it home) so some crud got into the oil. I plan on doing a thorough cleaning of the case before assembly.(oil ports,and so forth)New oil pump and so on. My main center two piece bearings numbers are- 2 08 025 BC 264 . I know there's an outer size and an inner size, the 025 is one but??? which one and whats the other. Rod bearings are all the same size-U1/0,25 85 0016110 other end shows a like E6 7329AK . Lost ,,,,, Thanks
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johnnypan
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 19, 2010 6:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Either spend the time learning and using a micrometer (well worth it) or in some cases on the back of the bearing shell the oversize is stamped in "mm".
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streetstock70
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 19, 2010 7:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes... But what bearings do I order. My numbers listed above tell ME ???????what. I can get them localy but I like to save money too. Easy just to take them down to the local Bug place and let them figure it out I guess. I just thought someone would have the simple answer how to read your bearings to order from WW or JBUGS or if you like getting screwed=JC Whitney Thanks for any help.
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raygreenwood
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 19, 2010 7:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can simply measure them and order that way. By the way...if you have no measuring tools...how do you know the case and journals are fine? Ray
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streetstock70
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 19, 2010 7:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have no measuring tools But have Numbers.......engine was rebuilt by a reputable person not too long ago, journals are smooth as a babies bottem and bearing surfaces are still near perfect. Just a little crud embedded in them and I want to refresh engine. PO bought engine as a short block and put miss match parts on causing early piston failure. Doomass he is. So bottem end is near new.
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streetstock70
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 19, 2010 7:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Case is good, No wear in bearing areas. Bugme video says as long as there's no wear in case its ready to build.
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 19, 2010 8:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

When rebuilding any VW engine "known" or not,one should measure out all parts to insure they are still in spec,the bentley manual gives all needed dimensions.Trusting part numbers or the previous builders memory is a recipe for disaster.
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 19, 2010 9:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The numbers you quote are probably the manufacturer's specific and proprietary part numbers for their bearings. I don't believe there is a universal or general numbering system. To support your question better, you might state the mfr's name when asking for specific answers, like VW, Glyco or KS etc.
In general, the numbers .025 is in mm, and means .010". 0.050 is 0.020" etc. Under, or oversize depending on what is marked, main, cam or rods.
Short of taking it to a machine shop for checking, you can use these...
http://compare.ebay.com/like/360319282029?ltyp=All...602_304662
http://www.vwparts.net/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PRO...ange_high=
If all the surfaces are smooth and you're sure there are no defects, then you might also just measure them with a simple 12" vernier caliper. You can buy one of them real cheap, and might also have use for it again in the future. That would get you close enough to call a machine shop and order the bearings from them. I'm sure Brother's Machine in Ontario for one would be glad and able to help you over the phone...
http://www.brothersvwmachineshop.com/contact.htm
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streetstock70
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 19, 2010 9:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks, Next stop Shop.
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 19, 2010 10:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
...smooth as a babies bottem and bearing surfaces are still near perfect. Just a little crud embedded in them...


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 20, 2010 1:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

just thought someone would have the simple answer how to read your bearings to order from WW or JBUGS or if you like getting screwed=JC Whitney
Confused Really

Have no measuring tools But have Numbers.......engine was rebuilt by a reputable person not too long ago... then why you rebuilding it again or trying to lol

WOW!
you dont even own a mic and you tear a case apart to replace the bearings, that you dont even understand how to get the specs to replace them.... Eh? and then you say there is no wear in them and this is good and this is fine Eh? Eh? How do you arrive at these conclusions with no tools or common knowledge,, please tell us. as I have wasted years doing it the old fashion way Razz

"just thought someone would have the simple answer". simple answer is a mid to high priced ID and OD Micrometer and the knowledge of using it correctly with the resources and specs to justify what needs to be replaced and what dont. stamped numbers mean nothing .. Happy hour was very long after work and that tender was fine looking
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Mooosman
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 20, 2010 7:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

1974YellowBug wrote:
Case is good, No wear in bearing areas. Bugme video says as long as there's no wear in case its ready to build.


How do you know there's no wear in the case (or the crank for that matter) if you have no tools to measure it with? That case should be torqued up, and the line bore checked for straightness and/or out-of-round. The crank needs to be checked with a micrometer.

You can't go by sight or feel with machined parts. Let someone with the proper tools check the parts for you, or don't bother rebuilding the thing at all. You're only wasting money by not doing it properly. Confused
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 20, 2010 9:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not to mention it,but its a fun job,to master the micrometer and sit up at the bench,measuring out your parts...you know for sure that all parts have been inspected and are to spec,and that final product,the running engine,should provide years of trouble free service.You gain a measure of pride and satisfaction in a job well done and are reminded of it everytime you turn the key.
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 20, 2010 12:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

1974YellowBug wrote:
Have no measuring tools But have Numbers.......engine was rebuilt by a reputable person not too long ago, journals are smooth as a babies bottem and bearing surfaces are still near perfect. Just a little crud embedded in them and I want to refresh engine. PO bought engine as a short block and put miss match parts on causing early piston failure. Doomass he is. So bottem end is near new.



Smooth is only a small part of what important with bearings. Are the bore still round....that even more important.
This you cannot see.....it must be measured. Ray
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 04, 2012 8:42 pm    Post subject: connecting rod bearing od? Reply with quote

Can somebody please tell me the factory specs for connecting rod bearing outside dimensions?

I had my crank and rods machined and returned without new bearings. My case has been line bored 1mm over. The crank has been turned .5mm under for main and rod journals. My rod saddles are measuring 57.75mm. Is this factory spec?

Thanks in advance.
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 04, 2012 8:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Big end rod bore was turned? why? generally any wear in that area and you pitch the rod in the scrap pile,the only difference in rod bearing sizes is to compensate for a turned crank.
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