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Windshield replacement options
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Zeitgeist 13
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 14, 2011 8:26 pm    Post subject: Windshield replacement options Reply with quote

I'm getting tired of the front window leak that necessitated the removal of the constantly soaked carpeting and floor underlayment a few years ago, so I plan on replacing offending seal this Spring. I gather I'll also face some rust issues needing Por15 and some patching/painting as well. My van uses the factory "Cal-look" seal, so I'm hoping it installs with the old rope and pressure technique. My glass is getting a bit cloudy near the bottom, so I'd like to buy a replacement while I'm at it. Who makes a decent window for these beasts; PPG, Pilkington, etc.? If I were to have one of the major national chain glass suppliers install the window into my personally prepped and painted frame, who would you recommend?

Thanks,
Casey
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garryv84
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 14, 2011 8:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used glass doctor
PPG no tint on top
I bought new gasket from van cafe
about 250.00
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thummmper
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 14, 2011 8:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm gonna have to do that too--got a spider lightning bolt in the lower right
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Sir Sam
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 14, 2011 8:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got pilkington about a year and a half ago. I think it cost $90 or so from them, I reused the seal.
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Bruce Wayne
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 14, 2011 9:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got whacked by a rock about the size of softball last week. saw it just in time to turn my head and close my eyes,thought for sure it was going to come all the way through the window. called around and found a place that will do it for $230,with a new seal.
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kshbaja
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 14, 2011 9:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was just calling around for this today. The 3 glass shops I called were all between $160 and $170 installed, not including the seal (which I already had). Interestingly, my first call was to Halsey Imports to get a referral to a glass shop. They told me a referral was unnecessary as they could do the job for me for $355! How nice!

By the way I also had some minor rust to attend to on my windshield sill. Fortunately it hadn't rusted through yet, but it was moderately pitted and required a good bit of prep work and some touch up paint.
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alnvilma
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 15, 2011 8:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

FYI: I used MS Glass; Pilkington but saved my old seal. Big mistake cuz it leaked a lot onto both sides of the floor. Bought a new Bus Depot German seal and had it installed w/o sealants. End of leaks.
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tencentlife
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 15, 2011 8:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My Syncro has an unbroken windshield (I think it's the only one of all our vehicles, glass doesn't last long hereabouts) but the WS seal has a small gap all across the top and partway down the sides, always found puddles on the front floormats after a good rain. My quick fix was to run along the seal edge with a plastic trim tool and work a bead of black RTV in there, then let it squeeze out and wipe off the excess. Can't tell it's in there, and it hasn't leaked since then!
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Zeitgeist 13
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 15, 2011 8:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

tencentlife wrote:
My Syncro has an unbroken windshield (I think it's the only one of all our vehicles, glass doesn't last long hereabouts) but the WS seal has a small gap all across the top and partway down the sides, always found puddles on the front floormats after a good rain. My quick fix was to run along the seal edge with a plastic trim tool and work a bead of black RTV in there, then let it squeeze out and wipe off the excess. Can't tell it's in there, and it hasn't leaked since then!


I tried that a couple years ago, but up here the seal gets a lot of slimy mold and accumulated detritus in the gaps, and there doesn't seem like any way to remove all of it. I could never get the sealant to adhere in that environment of mycocultural bounty.
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teej
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 15, 2011 9:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Same problem--wet floorboards after hard rain. Sealed every penetration, better but still wet. Replaced the windshield with new seal from VC. (fixed rust and some pinholes while it was out) The lame installers blew off my request to use a sealant. Improved, but still leaks after a heavy rain. Might try the D-I-Y fix mentioned before going to a good glass shop, have them pull and re-install the windshield using some type of non-hardening sealant. Any recommendations on what sealant to use?
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Ahwahnee
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 15, 2011 11:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here in the Southwest, between stones & sand I have to replace the windshield every few years. Most insurance carriers offer 'Full Glass Coverage' which covers any broken glass with no deductible irrespective of what deductibles you have on comp & collision.

I don't know if that is an Arizona thing or available everywhere -- but (here at least) it is very cheap & the claim does not affect the premium or count against the accident-free discount.

Might be worth asking your agent as the profile of these rolling bricks make that big picture window a vulnerable target.
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WestyBob
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 15, 2011 12:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've done a lot of body and glass work in my day. The sill needs to be completely repaired and symetrical first. Water will pass through a pinhole.

Stay away from silicone in this application - it will eventually age, harden and pull away.

I like using urethane: http://www.repaintsupply.com/pd_08609.cfm

It also comes recommended from doka owner and glassman Stacey in the Bay area.
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kshbaja
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 15, 2011 3:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

WestyBob - Do you recommend sealing all the way around the perimeter of the windshield with the urethane? One of the shops I spoke to said they usually only seal the top and a bit down the sides from the top.
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vanis13
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 15, 2011 5:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

FYI, glass prices vary WIDELY...if its not the ins co paying.

Last time I replaced the Vanagon windshield 2008? got prices from $450 to $120 installed incl gasket. still looks/works good. no leaks

just did the subaru this year, same thing, $350-$110 installed.

Pricing technique is to call around say you are paying cash, the price immediately gets cut in half. then the three vendors you like the best call them and say so-and-so would do it for this much and they'll beat it. Usually yields another 50% savings.

Sometimes I don't take the "lowest" price if its a "fly-by night" and pay the extra $5-$10 to go with a shop that has been around a while just in case.

I have more confidence taking it to the shop vs. having them come to my house.

unbelievable mark-up on windshields when the ins co pays.
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WestyBob
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 15, 2011 8:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

kshbaja wrote:
WestyBob - Do you recommend sealing all the way around the perimeter of the windshield with the urethane? One of the shops I spoke to said they usually only seal the top and a bit down the sides from the top.


Yes because usually by the time a seal needs replacement there are imperfections in the outer sill which can eventually allow water in. That is, it's no longer 'perfect' as it came from the factory.

Some people with a new seal can initially acheive a good fit without assistance of sealant but that's rare, and often the water intrusion is not immediately realized until years later when they discover the sill lip has quietly and unnoticably rotted away (and water then starts pouring into the cab again).

For that reason I recommend this urethane or something similar be applied completely around the seal prior to install, and then applied completely around under the outer seal lip after the install. The idea is to do everything possible to stop all water from penetrating under the seal for as long as possible.

This all holds true particularly for super old rigs like our vanagons.

The sealant doesn't cost much so why not ? Water will get into any access no matter how small, will settle initially unnoticed perhaps for years, and do its work, and rust never sleeps.
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turbotransporter
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 16, 2011 9:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is what was found under my Transporter single cab's original windshield gasket. Crying or Very sad

Right side
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Middle
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Left side
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Before I removed the glass and gasket, only the middle showed any sign of hidden rust but I would find water on the floor boards if I parked nose slightly up. And since at always rains in Seattle Wink , that was quite often.

My body shop is going to repair this correctly; cut out and weld in new metal, seal, prime and repaint.

I've R&R'd a few Vanagon windshields in 20+ years since catching the Vanagon disease but I've never used any sealant around the windshield gaskets. No leaks that I know of but perhaps I've been lucky?

I'm no WestyBob but I'd like to think I've gotten a little smarter over time so after spending the big $$$ to have all the body work done on my single cab, what's a few more for the sealant and no worries? Cool
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dubbified
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 16, 2011 10:48 am    Post subject: windshield Reply with quote

Funny.. a couple weeks ago I was thinking.. this glass is really spotted, pitted and just.. Time to be replaced.

Couple days later, a little rock kicks up and cracks my glass. It really wasnt that big.. same thing happenned with our Saturn with SGC glass.

The glass in there was SGC, Syracuse glass company, aka Safelite.

I was specific to have Pilkington replacement as they seem thicker.. and certainly they are.

I found out SGC has some form of "waiver" and makes their stuff to a diffrent standard.

And... driving the van to the appt, on the freeway, you can hear road noise.. on the old windshield.. tapped my knuckles on the window.. more of a light rapping sound..

After replacement certainly noticed on start, that any sound I made was being reflected back at me, and I didnt hear the freeway noises.. and my same knuckle rapping was met by a THUD.. more solid..

Anyone seen this?
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Zeitgeist 13
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 16, 2011 10:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

turbotransporter wrote:
This is what was found under my Transporter single cab's original windshield gasket. Crying or Very sad

Middle
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Before I removed the glass and gasket, only the middle showed any sign of hidden rust but I would find water on the floor boards if I parked nose slightly up. And since at always rains in Seattle Wink , that was quite often.


I suspect I'm facing the very same rust gremlins lurking in dark corners. I previously filled in the .25 gap in the seal, but it didn't staunch the flow of water.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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Texxxxx
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 18, 2011 5:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

When you apply the urethane, or silicone in 10c's case, and you are peeling back the outside portion of the windshield seal, are you putting it under the glass or body side...or both?
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WestyBob
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 18, 2011 8:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Texxxxx wrote:
When you apply the urethane, or silicone in 10c's case, and you are peeling back the outside portion of the windshield seal, are you putting it under the glass or body side...or both?


On the body side for sure making sure you don't over-stretch the new seal in the process. Make sure the new seal is still tight to the body when done and clean off the excess urethane that comes out immediately.

You can use silicone or urethane in the groove that the glass sits in or neither. Some like to do that to hold the glass in the seal for easier install. But this is not where water typically gets into vehicle - once the windshield is installed the compression is very high where the seal and glass meet so it's all optional here.

The most common area the water gets under the seal next to the body is the top two corners followed secondly by the sides. It then travels down to the two bottom corners and also the bottom middle area.

Where the glass fits into the inner seal groove there won't be any water getting to the sill unless the seal is punctured.
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