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Zeitgeist 13 Samba Member

Joined: March 05, 2009 Posts: 12177 Location: Port Manteau
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Posted: Mon Feb 14, 2011 8:26 pm Post subject: Windshield replacement options |
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I'm getting tired of the front window leak that necessitated the removal of the constantly soaked carpeting and floor underlayment a few years ago, so I plan on replacing offending seal this Spring. I gather I'll also face some rust issues needing Por15 and some patching/painting as well. My van uses the factory "Cal-look" seal, so I'm hoping it installs with the old rope and pressure technique. My glass is getting a bit cloudy near the bottom, so I'd like to buy a replacement while I'm at it. Who makes a decent window for these beasts; PPG, Pilkington, etc.? If I were to have one of the major national chain glass suppliers install the window into my personally prepped and painted frame, who would you recommend?
Thanks,
Casey _________________ Casey--
'89 Bluestar ALH
'01 Weekender --> full camper
NEAT, no ICE. |
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garryv84 Samba Member
Joined: August 10, 2010 Posts: 276 Location: Los Angeles
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Posted: Mon Feb 14, 2011 8:38 pm Post subject: |
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I used glass doctor
PPG no tint on top
I bought new gasket from van cafe
about 250.00 |
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thummmper Samba Member

Joined: November 25, 2009 Posts: 2015 Location: Meadow Valley, California Republic
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Posted: Mon Feb 14, 2011 8:44 pm Post subject: |
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| I'm gonna have to do that too--got a spider lightning bolt in the lower right |
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Sir Sam Samba Member

Joined: July 19, 2009 Posts: 1724 Location: Fort Collins Colorado!
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Posted: Mon Feb 14, 2011 8:52 pm Post subject: |
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I got pilkington about a year and a half ago. I think it cost $90 or so from them, I reused the seal. _________________ '91 Carat Westy
87' Syncro + '87 Westy conversion coming soon |
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Bruce Wayne Samba Member
Joined: May 15, 2007 Posts: 1210
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Posted: Mon Feb 14, 2011 9:04 pm Post subject: |
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| I got whacked by a rock about the size of softball last week. saw it just in time to turn my head and close my eyes,thought for sure it was going to come all the way through the window. called around and found a place that will do it for $230,with a new seal. |
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kshbaja Samba Member
Joined: June 15, 2008 Posts: 476 Location: Portland, OR
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Posted: Mon Feb 14, 2011 9:23 pm Post subject: |
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I was just calling around for this today. The 3 glass shops I called were all between $160 and $170 installed, not including the seal (which I already had). Interestingly, my first call was to Halsey Imports to get a referral to a glass shop. They told me a referral was unnecessary as they could do the job for me for $355! How nice!
By the way I also had some minor rust to attend to on my windshield sill. Fortunately it hadn't rusted through yet, but it was moderately pitted and required a good bit of prep work and some touch up paint. _________________ 1986 Westfalia |
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alnvilma Samba Member
Joined: March 07, 2002 Posts: 395
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Posted: Tue Feb 15, 2011 8:21 am Post subject: |
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| FYI: I used MS Glass; Pilkington but saved my old seal. Big mistake cuz it leaked a lot onto both sides of the floor. Bought a new Bus Depot German seal and had it installed w/o sealants. End of leaks. |
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tencentlife Samba Member

Joined: May 02, 2006 Posts: 10163 Location: Abiquiu, NM, USA
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Posted: Tue Feb 15, 2011 8:26 am Post subject: |
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My Syncro has an unbroken windshield (I think it's the only one of all our vehicles, glass doesn't last long hereabouts) but the WS seal has a small gap all across the top and partway down the sides, always found puddles on the front floormats after a good rain. My quick fix was to run along the seal edge with a plastic trim tool and work a bead of black RTV in there, then let it squeeze out and wipe off the excess. Can't tell it's in there, and it hasn't leaked since then! _________________ Shop for unique and useful Vanagon accessories at the Vanistan shop:
https://intrepidoverland.com/vanistan/
also available at VanCafe.com!
Please don't PM here, I will not reply. |
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Zeitgeist 13 Samba Member

Joined: March 05, 2009 Posts: 12177 Location: Port Manteau
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Posted: Tue Feb 15, 2011 8:40 am Post subject: |
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| tencentlife wrote: |
| My Syncro has an unbroken windshield (I think it's the only one of all our vehicles, glass doesn't last long hereabouts) but the WS seal has a small gap all across the top and partway down the sides, always found puddles on the front floormats after a good rain. My quick fix was to run along the seal edge with a plastic trim tool and work a bead of black RTV in there, then let it squeeze out and wipe off the excess. Can't tell it's in there, and it hasn't leaked since then! |
I tried that a couple years ago, but up here the seal gets a lot of slimy mold and accumulated detritus in the gaps, and there doesn't seem like any way to remove all of it. I could never get the sealant to adhere in that environment of mycocultural bounty. _________________ Casey--
'89 Bluestar ALH
'01 Weekender --> full camper
NEAT, no ICE. |
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teej Samba Member
Joined: November 26, 2010 Posts: 908 Location: Seattle
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Posted: Tue Feb 15, 2011 9:10 am Post subject: |
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Same problem--wet floorboards after hard rain. Sealed every penetration, better but still wet. Replaced the windshield with new seal from VC. (fixed rust and some pinholes while it was out) The lame installers blew off my request to use a sealant. Improved, but still leaks after a heavy rain. Might try the D-I-Y fix mentioned before going to a good glass shop, have them pull and re-install the windshield using some type of non-hardening sealant. Any recommendations on what sealant to use? _________________ 1986+ Wolfsburg Weekender Pop-Top 2.3 WBX Manual Trans |
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Ahwahnee Samba Member

Joined: June 05, 2010 Posts: 10314 Location: Mt Lemmon, AZ
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Posted: Tue Feb 15, 2011 11:00 am Post subject: |
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Here in the Southwest, between stones & sand I have to replace the windshield every few years. Most insurance carriers offer 'Full Glass Coverage' which covers any broken glass with no deductible irrespective of what deductibles you have on comp & collision.
I don't know if that is an Arizona thing or available everywhere -- but (here at least) it is very cheap & the claim does not affect the premium or count against the accident-free discount.
Might be worth asking your agent as the profile of these rolling bricks make that big picture window a vulnerable target. |
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WestyBob Samba Member

Joined: June 11, 2004 Posts: 2346 Location: Portland, Oregon
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Posted: Tue Feb 15, 2011 12:03 pm Post subject: |
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I've done a lot of body and glass work in my day. The sill needs to be completely repaired and symetrical first. Water will pass through a pinhole.
Stay away from silicone in this application - it will eventually age, harden and pull away.
I like using urethane: http://www.repaintsupply.com/pd_08609.cfm
It also comes recommended from doka owner and glassman Stacey in the Bay area. |
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kshbaja Samba Member
Joined: June 15, 2008 Posts: 476 Location: Portland, OR
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Posted: Tue Feb 15, 2011 3:46 pm Post subject: |
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WestyBob - Do you recommend sealing all the way around the perimeter of the windshield with the urethane? One of the shops I spoke to said they usually only seal the top and a bit down the sides from the top. _________________ 1986 Westfalia |
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vanis13 Samba Member

Joined: August 15, 2010 Posts: 4635 Location: ABQ NM USA.... Except when not
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Posted: Tue Feb 15, 2011 5:25 pm Post subject: |
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FYI, glass prices vary WIDELY...if its not the ins co paying.
Last time I replaced the Vanagon windshield 2008? got prices from $450 to $120 installed incl gasket. still looks/works good. no leaks
just did the subaru this year, same thing, $350-$110 installed.
Pricing technique is to call around say you are paying cash, the price immediately gets cut in half. then the three vendors you like the best call them and say so-and-so would do it for this much and they'll beat it. Usually yields another 50% savings.
Sometimes I don't take the "lowest" price if its a "fly-by night" and pay the extra $5-$10 to go with a shop that has been around a while just in case.
I have more confidence taking it to the shop vs. having them come to my house.
unbelievable mark-up on windshields when the ins co pays. |
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WestyBob Samba Member

Joined: June 11, 2004 Posts: 2346 Location: Portland, Oregon
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Posted: Tue Feb 15, 2011 8:40 pm Post subject: |
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| kshbaja wrote: |
| WestyBob - Do you recommend sealing all the way around the perimeter of the windshield with the urethane? One of the shops I spoke to said they usually only seal the top and a bit down the sides from the top. |
Yes because usually by the time a seal needs replacement there are imperfections in the outer sill which can eventually allow water in. That is, it's no longer 'perfect' as it came from the factory.
Some people with a new seal can initially acheive a good fit without assistance of sealant but that's rare, and often the water intrusion is not immediately realized until years later when they discover the sill lip has quietly and unnoticably rotted away (and water then starts pouring into the cab again).
For that reason I recommend this urethane or something similar be applied completely around the seal prior to install, and then applied completely around under the outer seal lip after the install. The idea is to do everything possible to stop all water from penetrating under the seal for as long as possible.
This all holds true particularly for super old rigs like our vanagons.
The sealant doesn't cost much so why not ? Water will get into any access no matter how small, will settle initially unnoticed perhaps for years, and do its work, and rust never sleeps. |
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turbotransporter Samba Member

Joined: February 19, 2006 Posts: 459 Location: Bainbridge Island WA
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Posted: Wed Feb 16, 2011 9:03 am Post subject: |
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This is what was found under my Transporter single cab's original windshield gasket.
Right side
Middle
Left side
Before I removed the glass and gasket, only the middle showed any sign of hidden rust but I would find water on the floor boards if I parked nose slightly up. And since at always rains in Seattle , that was quite often.
My body shop is going to repair this correctly; cut out and weld in new metal, seal, prime and repaint.
I've R&R'd a few Vanagon windshields in 20+ years since catching the Vanagon disease but I've never used any sealant around the windshield gaskets. No leaks that I know of but perhaps I've been lucky?
I'm no WestyBob but I'd like to think I've gotten a little smarter over time so after spending the big $$$ to have all the body work done on my single cab, what's a few more for the sealant and no worries?  |
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dubbified Samba Member
Joined: March 03, 2010 Posts: 1508 Location: Redmond, WA
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Posted: Wed Feb 16, 2011 10:48 am Post subject: windshield |
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Funny.. a couple weeks ago I was thinking.. this glass is really spotted, pitted and just.. Time to be replaced.
Couple days later, a little rock kicks up and cracks my glass. It really wasnt that big.. same thing happenned with our Saturn with SGC glass.
The glass in there was SGC, Syracuse glass company, aka Safelite.
I was specific to have Pilkington replacement as they seem thicker.. and certainly they are.
I found out SGC has some form of "waiver" and makes their stuff to a diffrent standard.
And... driving the van to the appt, on the freeway, you can hear road noise.. on the old windshield.. tapped my knuckles on the window.. more of a light rapping sound..
After replacement certainly noticed on start, that any sound I made was being reflected back at me, and I didnt hear the freeway noises.. and my same knuckle rapping was met by a THUD.. more solid..
Anyone seen this? |
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Zeitgeist 13 Samba Member

Joined: March 05, 2009 Posts: 12177 Location: Port Manteau
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Posted: Wed Feb 16, 2011 10:58 am Post subject: |
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| turbotransporter wrote: |
This is what was found under my Transporter single cab's original windshield gasket.
Middle
Before I removed the glass and gasket, only the middle showed any sign of hidden rust but I would find water on the floor boards if I parked nose slightly up. And since at always rains in Seattle , that was quite often.
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I suspect I'm facing the very same rust gremlins lurking in dark corners. I previously filled in the .25 gap in the seal, but it didn't staunch the flow of water.
_________________ Casey--
'89 Bluestar ALH
'01 Weekender --> full camper
NEAT, no ICE. |
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Texxxxx Samba Member

Joined: January 28, 2008 Posts: 448 Location: Monterey, CA
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Posted: Fri Feb 18, 2011 5:36 pm Post subject: |
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When you apply the urethane, or silicone in 10c's case, and you are peeling back the outside portion of the windshield seal, are you putting it under the glass or body side...or both? _________________ '85 GL w/2.1L "The Tardis"
It's A Vanagon Day |
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WestyBob Samba Member

Joined: June 11, 2004 Posts: 2346 Location: Portland, Oregon
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Posted: Fri Feb 18, 2011 8:49 pm Post subject: |
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| Texxxxx wrote: |
| When you apply the urethane, or silicone in 10c's case, and you are peeling back the outside portion of the windshield seal, are you putting it under the glass or body side...or both? |
On the body side for sure making sure you don't over-stretch the new seal in the process. Make sure the new seal is still tight to the body when done and clean off the excess urethane that comes out immediately.
You can use silicone or urethane in the groove that the glass sits in or neither. Some like to do that to hold the glass in the seal for easier install. But this is not where water typically gets into vehicle - once the windshield is installed the compression is very high where the seal and glass meet so it's all optional here.
The most common area the water gets under the seal next to the body is the top two corners followed secondly by the sides. It then travels down to the two bottom corners and also the bottom middle area.
Where the glass fits into the inner seal groove there won't be any water getting to the sill unless the seal is punctured. |
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