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59 SC. New engine, No start, No crank & No fun
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matthew henricks
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 10, 2024 7:51 am    Post subject: 59 SC. New engine, No start, No crank & No fun Reply with quote

59 SC. Drove fine until engine died. New engine built, ran, tested & tuned in driveway before installing into bus. Probably 90 minutes on it.

Had a high torque starter in bus which tore up the 6V flywheel. Replaced that with a new 6V starter & used 12v solenoid at same time.

- Put engine in bus. Started fine a few times.
- Starting became rough. Starter would start/stop while turning key.
- Now nothing. No click or anything.


What i have done.

- Measure 12.2V @ battery.
- Dash light bright. Dim a little when trying to start.
- Refresh solenoid. Took apart & cleaned contacts. Were good.
- Tested solenoid direct to battery. Works fine.
- Cross both large nuts at starter. Starter spins fine.
- Cross solenoid 50 & + voltage lug at starter. Solenoid jumps fine.
- Measured 12.v @ fuse box. (stock 6 fuse set-up)
- Measured 12.2v @ ignition switch terminal 30.
- Measured 0v @ ignition switch terminal 50 with key off.
- Measured 12.2v @ ignition terminal 50 with key on.
- Measured continuity on wire 50 from ignition to starter.
- Measured 8.6v across 50 & battery strap when ignition turned.
- Measured voltage drop @ battery. Rest to ignition on. 12.2v to 11.8v.
- Battery cables are in good shape.
- Engine turns over by hand without issue.
- Starter bushing in good shape.
- Bus wiring totally replaced in mid 90's and in decent shape.


I am thinking ignition switch or the need for a hard start kit. Buddy suggested a voltage drop test but not sure how to do that.

A bit frustrated.

Thank you.
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 10, 2024 9:07 am    Post subject: Re: 59 SC. New engine, No start, No crank & No fun Reply with quote

matthew henricks wrote:


I am thinking ignition switch or the need for a hard start kit. Buddy suggested a voltage drop test but not sure how to do that.

A bit frustrated.

Thank you.


Take an electrical item like a sealed beam bulb and connect it at the starter solenoid wire wire end from the ignition switch, and ground the other side of the bulb. Then have a helped turn the ignition switch turning the light bulb on. Check voltage at the battery and slide under to check the voltage at the starter solenoid end. Seen plenty of old VWs with up to 2 volts of drop this way.

Measuring without a load on the electrical system is useless. With no load the tiniest most corroded connection can read just fine. When a load is applied the bad connections heat up and cause voltage drops.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=792314&highlight=fuse+box+soldering
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 10, 2024 9:52 am    Post subject: Re: 59 SC. New engine, No start, No crank & No fun Reply with quote

Nose cone ground strap ? Tranny needs a good ground. You can make a temporary/test strap from your starter to frame of bus to see if that is your problem.
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 10, 2024 12:40 pm    Post subject: Re: 59 SC. New engine, No start, No crank & No fun Reply with quote

When you did this test:

"Cross solenoid 50 & + voltage lug at starter. Solenoid jumps fine."

Did the starter turn over the engine?

If not, my guess is the starter isn't meshing with the flywheel properly. You already confirmed the solenoid and starter motor are functional on their own.
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matthew henricks
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 10, 2024 4:18 pm    Post subject: Re: 59 SC. New engine, No start, No crank & No fun Reply with quote

Thank you. Some tests to run this weekend.

Quote:
Nose cone ground strap ? Tranny needs a good ground. You can make a temporary/test strap from your starter to frame of bus to see if that is your problem.

I pulled the trans while the engine was getting rebuilt to replace the shift coupler and "M" spring. At the same time i cleaned and the trans ground strap connection and 60 years of grime.

Quote:
"Cross solenoid 50 & + voltage lug at starter. Solenoid jumps fine."

Not sure. Being under the car i did not let that test run very long. I will pull the coil wire and test this again.
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 10, 2024 6:18 pm    Post subject: Re: 59 SC. New engine, No start, No crank & No fun Reply with quote

matthew henricks wrote:
Had a high torque starter in bus which tore up the 6V flywheel.


Was the gear on the high torque starter a 6 volt gear?

Did you replace the tore up 6 volt flywheel?
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 11, 2024 7:59 am    Post subject: Re: 59 SC. New engine, No start, No crank & No fun Reply with quote

BarryL wrote:
matthew henricks wrote:
Had a high torque starter in bus which tore up the 6V flywheel.


Was the gear on the high torque starter a 6 volt gear?

Did you replace the tore up 6 volt flywheel?


Yes and yes.

Now i have a standard Bosch 6V starter with a 12V solenoid.
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 24, 2025 6:43 pm    Post subject: Re: 59 SC. New engine, No start, No crank & No fun Reply with quote

Back to this slice of heaven. Thought the problem went away. What has changed…

- Fuse box soldered up on the top row where the fuse spring are.
- new battery measuring 14.4v where there was 12.2v
- Had a hard start kit so installed that.

Crank and sometimes it starts and sometimes it turns the engine ability 10 degrees.

Next step is to measure voltage drop with load and look at the headlight switch.

Question. Does the hard start kit bypass all the problems that could be lurking at the front of the car so I can focus on the rear?
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 24, 2025 7:15 pm    Post subject: Re: 59 SC. New engine, No start, No crank & No fun Reply with quote

12.2 volts is a dead battery. A "hot" battery is 12.68 or better. Yes. 0.48 volts on a 12 volt battery is a big deal. Try a better battery.
Edit: your post above wasn't visible when I posted. Remove the "hot start" stuff see what happens.
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 25, 2025 7:57 am    Post subject: Re: 59 SC. New engine, No start, No crank & No fun Reply with quote

BonTonRoulet wrote:

Edit: your post above wasn't visible when I posted. Remove the "hot start" stuff see what happens.


No worries. To be clear my battery has 14.4V. Results were the same with or without the hard start relay. That was something i installed at the end to see if it made any difference (and i had it).

That is my question. With that kit installed it isolates the front of the car eliminating the wiring to the fuse box area, fuse box, start switch and light switch from any voltage loss. That then suggests my source of the problems may be:

- Bad Battery. (I measure 14.4V. 1 year old Duracell Battery with 600CCA)
- Starter. (New "rebuilt" 12V Bosch unit. 1 year old)
- Starter bushing. (I am going to look at that again)
- Solenoid (Used 12V unit that i took apart and cleaned)
- grounding (Have cleaned everything. Voltage drop test next)

Is that true?
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 25, 2025 6:17 pm    Post subject: Re: 59 SC. New engine, No start, No crank & No fun Reply with quote

matthew henricks wrote:
With that kit installed it isolates the front of the car eliminating the wiring to the fuse box area, fuse box, start switch and light switch from any voltage loss.
Is that true?


The key "start" wire still activates the "straight-to-the-solenoid connection". If that works then then that is not a problem.

So you're saying it always turns the starter a little bit as long as the key is turned to start.

A worn bushing will produce the effects you're having. But that is not the only way your problem can occur.
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 25, 2025 7:06 pm    Post subject: Re: 59 SC. New engine, No start, No crank & No fun Reply with quote

BarryL wrote:
matthew henricks wrote:
With that kit installed it isolates the front of the car eliminating the wiring to the fuse box area, fuse box, start switch and light switch from any voltage loss.
Is that true?


So you're saying it always turns the starter a little bit as long as the key is turned to start.


Yes. Every time i turn the key something happens at the starter motor. This is with or without the hard start kit installed.

I would say this is the mix.

- 70% of the time i get a solenoid click/clunk with engine rotation of about 10 degrees then stops. Obviously no start. (I have my son turn the key while i look at the engine which is how i know the engine pulley is moving about 10 degrees.)

- 25% of the time i get a full engine crank with normal engine starting.

- 5% of the time i get a full starter crank but the starting gear does not engage the flywheel and it gives a "varoom" sound with no engine turning. This is obvious the starting doing its thing but the gear did not engage the flywheel.

What is the definition of "warn" for a starter bushing? Are we talking a few thousands on the radii or massive wear? What am i looking for there as it is hard to tell with the bushing in the bore what the starter is actually seeing? I guess pulling the engine i could push on the shaft...
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 25, 2025 7:06 pm    Post subject: Re: 59 SC. New engine, No start, No crank & No fun Reply with quote

A worn starter bushing gave me the occasional no start condition recently; I'm 12 volt system running a 6 volt starter and 6 volt solenoid in a 67 RGB transmission. That means the big shaft of the starter in a small hole in the transmission requires the very very thin bushing.

So here is something to consider if you are thinking the starter bushing: the rear of the starter armature shaft runs in a bronze bushing. IF the bushing in the bell housing is worn out then you can bet the bushing on the other end of the starter is probably worn as well, quite possibly worn to the point a new bushing up front won't resolve your issue .

What I'd try next: Gently rock your bus fwd and back in 2nd gear then jump in and try to start it as usual.
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 25, 2025 7:44 pm    Post subject: Re: 59 SC. New engine, No start, No crank & No fun Reply with quote

To be clear, the standard unsupported VW starter has two Oilite bushings. One installed into the transaxle supports the rear of the starter shaft. Second one is in the front of the starter (Front as in closer to the front bumper). If either bushing is worn the armature shaft will shift over to the side and the windings on the armature shaft will start to rub against the field coils inside the starter body. This at first will make the starter work harder and make less torque to turn the engine and in turn will draw down the electrical system voltage even to the point that one does not have ignition spark anymore. A little later the windings insulation will wear thru and the starter will let out the magic smoke.

Oilite bushings are brass that is pressed together so as to have tiny passages in the bushing to hold oil in the material. When the bushing heats up the oil in the passages wicks out and lubricates the rear of the starter shaft of the armature.

Before installing Oilite bushings it is wise to soak them in oil to top them up.

"Oilite bushings are highly reliable and innovative industrial components that work in systems across a range of industries. These parts consist of an oil-infused porous sintered bronze material, which is why they’re known for their self-lubrication and long-lasting performance capabilities."

More here:
https://www.emersonbearing.com/oilite-bushings/
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 26, 2025 6:07 pm    Post subject: Re: 59 SC. New engine, No start, No crank & No fun Reply with quote

matthew henricks wrote:
Had a high torque starter in bus which tore up the 6V flywheel. Replaced that with a new 6V starter & used 12v solenoid at same time.


To be clear this is not a self-supporting starter, right?
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 27, 2025 1:06 pm    Post subject: Re: 59 SC. New engine, No start, No crank & No fun Reply with quote

BarryL wrote:
matthew henricks wrote:
Had a high torque starter in bus which tore up the 6V flywheel. Replaced that with a new 6V starter & used 12v solenoid at same time.


To be clear this is not a self-supporting starter, right?


It now has a stock starter using the bushing. (6V starter with 12V solenoid)
All of the troubleshooting in this entire thread is with this set-up.
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 27, 2025 2:20 pm    Post subject: Re: 59 SC. New engine, No start, No crank & No fun Reply with quote

Sounds like there are multiple problems

Starter bushing may be bad
Starter could be bad
Poor ground where starter mates to trans - needs to be clean bare metal

Maybe pull the plugs and test for proper crank over in case motor is resisting

Are you sure flywheel teeth are good?

Do you have a remote starter switch? A sett of jumper cables and a good switch will work

I would test the starter outside the bus on the ground about 10x for proper operation
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 27, 2025 6:36 pm    Post subject: Re: 59 SC. New engine, No start, No crank & No fun Reply with quote

chrisflstf wrote:
I would test the starter outside the bus on the ground about 10x for proper operation


Can't do that here unless there is piece of the bell housing.
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 02, 2025 8:42 am    Post subject: Re: 59 SC. New engine, No start, No crank & No fun Reply with quote

Pulled the starter again. The mount flange on the transmission was clean.

I cleaned it again anyways as well as the inside of the trans where it mounts. teeth on flywheel look good. Should as it is new.

Measured the nose of the starter at 12.50mm. Turned down a shaft to that diameter. Tested on a new bushing i have to get a feel for the fit. Stuck that into transmission bushing to feel for slop. Fit seems good. I do not think the bushing is the problem.

(How do you pull the bushing without pulling the engine?)

Here is my next step. Does this sound reasonable?


1. Remove hard start kit and install starter normal. Put dielectric grease between two. Pull coil wire so engine does not start.

2. Remove #50 wire @ solenoid. Run separate wire from solenoid direct to battery +. Pretty much bypassing everything. Test.
This means starter and transmission ground is good.

3. Pull ignition switch. Insert between step 2 to battery. Test.
This means the ignition switch is OK

4. Pull light switch. Insert between ignition switch and battery using factory short #30 wire between these to to connect. Test
This means both ignition, short #30 wire and light switch work.

5. re-install ignition switch and light switch with short #30 wire. Run separate #50 wire from solenoid to ignition switch and a separate #30 wire from battery to light switch.
This means ignition, Light switch & short #30 wire work in the cab.

6. Install factory #50 wire back into the system.
This means that wire works

7. Install factory #30 wire direct to light switch. (Bypass fuse block)
This means that wire works

8. Install factory #30 wire to fuse box. (with fuse that i have ohmed out)
This means everything works.

Somewhere in this path i will find the problem. I am going to bet it is at step #3 to #5 right now...

Thoughts?
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 02, 2025 12:33 pm    Post subject: Re: 59 SC. New engine, No start, No crank & No fun Reply with quote

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_search.php...t_dir=DESC

If you use the ""search forums for photo" you can find threads any image was used in that most likely have much more info on the subject.

Have you checked the front starter bushing and how the starter brushes look wearwise or even if all four were installed???
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