settings/mods to maximize cold air conditioning circulation

[douglas225]

my air condition is finally working really well and during my journey to get it doing so, i have read many post about freon types, cleaning methods, evacs, vacuums, prep'ing, etc., but there is very little on maximizing the interior temperatures throughout the van and preferably in the front passengers.

now that i have air, i want to know what those of you who have it do to maximize the experience (i.e. get air moving without simply freezing my neck off). most specifically i would like to know the following:

1. how do you set your dash levers for controlling air flow (lever positions for A through D).
2. do you allow air to flow through your vents in the front or close them.
3. have you installed any oscillating fan type contraption to really get the air circulating.
4. any other ideas.

thanks,doug
_________________
1989 Vanagon Westfalia (all original)
Manual Transmission
Air Condition
currently around 95k miles

[Vango Conversions]

What type van/AC do you have? Mine has the center tunnel and to maximize the cooling to the front I close the rear vents and leave the front vents open and pointing at me. It works really well and cools me down really quickly. I'd also close the fresh air vents.

If you have a rear only AC, it's obviously going to take longer to cool you down in the front. I'd think that an inexpensive 12v oscillating fan would help to distribute the cool air.

[Californio]

There are many, many threads on this subject. However, best mod I have made (other than freon replacement) has been to reduce the amount of heat generated in the front, rather than increase the cooling from the rear.

I did this by (a) installing a heater control valve in the rear that shuts off all coolant to both heater cores and (b) insulating the heck out of the floor and cowling up front. To do this well you have to remove the radiator and insulate behind it. Do both sides, int and ext, with sound deadener and heat insulation.

World of difference.

[Ahwahnee]

Mine has the rear A/C, Westy so the tunnel is not esp practical.

I made some baffles to block the 2 eyeball vents on the unit and box the rectangular vents so the air goes right to the grilles. I also have a 12V fan clamped to the poptop edge behind the driver.

Controls should be (top to bottom)
1 doesn't matter but say full left
2 full left (heat off)
3 full right (outside air off)
4 full right (rear vent closed)

I think you want blue door slider (if you have them) closed.

I do notice on hard turns (right handers) I feel a nice dose of cold air dumped on me in the drivers seat so I think there is more tuning to be done.

I pretty much accept that I am never going to be able to hang meat in there and settle for a system that can keep a cool van cool but will not cool down a van that has sat in the sun and got the interior temp up to 110 or so.

[douglas225]

[BushChicken]

[chimivee]

[Ahwahnee]

[purplegodzilla]

Not trying to hijack, but are the vents on the side on top of the rear sliding door suppose to work? I had the air conditioner on couple of weeks ago when we had a minor heat wave. The air coming through the rear vents were working fine but not seeing anything coming through the sides.
_________________
1995 Eurovan Camper (SOLD)
1971 Westfalia (SOLD)
1991 Westfalia (SOLD)
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o292/purpleGORILLA/P1020720.jpg
1985 Westfalia

[cvbill]

P'godzilla, the vents you refer to are FRESH air vents controlled by the bottom lever (D) on the dash. There are two more on the left side as well, but the westfalia stuff may cover them.
My '89 passenger van had stock A/C w/ceiling tunnel to the front. (controls in the dash) I put a Country Homes Camper poptop on, so I removed all the tunnel stuff. I like it better. The blowers push the cool air right to the front, hits the windshield, and bounces back on you.
2.2 Subaru- 134A coolant- vent temp around 50°f -blowers at 2 all the time except when starting out with a hot van.
In the left "D"pillar I had the hi/lo combination pressure switch stick on me, so the compressor clutch would not engage. I tapped on the switch and bingo-the clutch engaged. This switch is $189. So every spring I do my tapping ritual with a screwdriver through a small hole in the pillar cover(once is enough per summer)
this is the #2 Mullindor port