CV questions

[Zero419]

I changed the oil today and found the cause of my vibration.
A ripped inner CV boot.
Being that it had a vibration, is it shot?
Should I order a new one? I'd like to have the parts before I start.

Also, there is about 30,00 miles on these axles. Should I do them all?

Don't tell my wife, but I'm guessing this was caused by my GW lift springs

Option 1 $280
http://www.van-cafe.com/home/van/page_631_1017/cv_joint_kit___4_joints__boot_kits.html

Option 2 4x $14=$48
Option 3 1x $14
http://www.van-cafe.com/home/van/page_638_1015/cv_boot_kit___incl._boothardwregrease.html

option 4 $75
http://www.van-cafe.com/home/van/page_630_1017/cv_joint_kit___fits_all_years_rear.html

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1987 Westy Auto Bostig 2.0 Ztec

[toomanyveedubs]

Front or rear CVs?

If front, I would just by the complete axels from van cafe(lowbro).

So much cleaner/easier than rebuilding the old ones.
I doubt a ripped boot would cause vibration.

[syncrodoka]

The joint is probably dry and needs to be repacked and a new boot. Disassemble it and inspect for pitting, wear marks or a cracked cage.


Since he has an auto it is a rear axle.

[Howesight]

I reckon you will have an easy repair. Just disconnect the CV from the drive flange, remove the cirlip, and drive the CV joint off the drive shaft with a drift against the inner part of the CV joint. Mark it (I put zip ties through the various holes to mark the orientation) and then disassemble and clean the CV parts. The orientation of the inner part, the "cage' and the outer part is important. The location of the individual "ball bearings" is unimportant.

Check the inner part and outer part for galling. A small shiny spot is OK. A serious and noticeable divot is not OK. It's quite amazing how much abuse the CV joints can take without being destroyed.

Use plenty of moly grease on reassembly. To avoid the most common problem with re-built CV's, (bolts loosening), install the CV joint with 2 bolts and use Q-tips to clean out the remaining 4 bolt holes, (use Brake Clean) and use blue loc-tite on the bolts and install. Then remove the two remaining bolts and repeat with the cleaning and loc-tite.

[Zero419]

[Wildthings]

How much lift do you have? Maybe you should consider using joints that can handle more angularity and/or a longer axle. Clocking the joints correctly helps at higher angles as well.

It usually take a while for a joint to be damaged by a ripped boot, so your noise is more apt to be caused by the angle you are running your joints at than by the lack of lubrication.

[randywebb]

Clocking ??
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1986 2.1L Westy 2wd Auto Trans.

[insyncro]

[syncrodoka]

CV clocking
http://www.californiaperformance.com/cv_clocking.htm

[Zero419]

[Zero419]

Man, that is a dirty job!

Removed, cleaned, inspected, replaced boot, lubed, reinstalled.

I left the wheel end on, there was one stubborn bolt that wouldn't break free.

The high frequency vibration seems to be gone. I'll find out more once I hit the highway.

The axles are Lobro. The inner boot on the other side is starting to crack.
Looks like I'll be doing this again soon.
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1987 Westy Auto Bostig 2.0 Ztec

[Jon_slider]

> I'm guessing this was caused by my GW lift springs
> 1987 Westy 2.1 Auto

not likely unless your hub to fender height is >20.5", AND your CV is broken.

out of curiosity, what is your passenger rear hub to fender measurement with the GW 2wd lift springs?

fwiw, a torn boot that loses grease is a setup for a broken CV.

I went through a mud puddle with a torn boot, my CV started clacking, and on a tight turn, it broke.. front outer on a syncro.. Muddy water poured out of the boot when we removed the axle. I dont think muddy water is a very good CV lubricant..

torn CV boots should be replaced to prevent being stranded.

[Zero419]

If I remember correctly, somewhere in the 18" range.
I'll get a measurement up soonish.
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1987 Westy Auto Bostig 2.0 Ztec