High idle. On purpose.

[88formula]

I wonder if anybody else has thought of this, or if it's worth it. A high idle switch. 

I have a '91 auto, and when my girlfriend starts driving my Buick full time, I'll be driving my westy. So I started getting it ready for both my daily driver and weekendly camp mobile. 
One of the items I'm putting in it is a remote starter. And in the hopes of not letting idle too long, (still long enough to get warm in the winter) I was wondering if it were posible to instal a high idle switch. I thought that I would put a relay on the wire from the throttle switch to "switch" it without touching anything. 

I did the adjustment on the switch before, but my tolerances were too tight. And some times when I pulled up to a light it would idle high. Until I taped the throttle and it would activate the switch. With it in park, it would idle at about 1500 (if memory serves me right). I got it doled right in now. And works the way it was made to. 

Is the switch normally open? And then closed at 0%, 100%? Or the other way around? 

At full throttle it enriches the mixture, but what happens at idle? Does it enrich too? Or lean? How does the digifant know it it is 0% or100%? does it just decide from rpm? 
Does the IAC go to full duty cycle once it comes off the switch? ( let's call that 1% throttle) 

Or am I thinking way too far into this. Maybe this won't be good for the engine. I think it could potentially be a boost for warm up in the morning. I'm looking to bring the coolant temp up to operating temp as soon as possible. 

Oh, and on a side note, I am planing on outing a switch by the heater control to manually operate an aux water pump. I got one from a little 944 that I'm going to put in the line BEFORE the rear heater core to get that coolant flowing. Cold mornings, idling at a red light, turning the fan down because coolant is not flowing fast enough... NOT FOR ME!!

[scotsborn]

Bentley says that the throttle switch has continuity at idle and at full load so that suggest that the contacts are closed at idle / full load.

So:
idle - closed
part load - open
full load- closed

While reviewing the testing procedure for the 'full load' switch it appears it will increase the CO in the exhaust by 1% when closed (full load). I'm assuming part of the ECU programming is to increase the injector time by this incremental amount when the ECU see's this circuit closed. This could be taken into account when at idle and just added to the air mass meter value at full load. Just a guess.

I would doubt the higher idle will get your vehicle warmer quicker so would suggest this is not worth the effort. When you add in the potential driveability issues on your 'daily driver' then I would definately not 'modify' it this way. My opinion.