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Dometic RM 182-Again
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Salem7
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PostPosted: Wed May 25, 2011 8:41 pm    Post subject: Dometic RM 182-Again Reply with quote

Another of the endless Dometic issues. I did a complete on the bench look over of the unit last summer after getting the 1982 NA Diesel. Everything was working well last summer but with no extended use. I thought I would give it a test run before a Memorial Day trip, it lit right off and started cooling on LP. I decided to let I run over night just to be sure. While it was running it was dribbling a lot of condensation out of the vent and giving off an odor like incomplete combustion. Does anyone else have this issue? It ran well and was cooling checked it through out the evening. Next morning the flame was out and it was cold. Tried to relight it wouldn't, checked to see if I ran out of gas-there was a good flame on both stove burners. I suspect the jet could be buggered up. ( I might have been too aggressive a cleaner). I have read all the stickeys, I couldn't find a reference to this issue.

Any suggestions? Any leads on where to get a burner jet? I have been looking no luck-not sure of the part number.

My reefer has no pilot so I suspect it ia a very early model.


Thanks
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Vanagon Nut
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PostPosted: Wed May 25, 2011 9:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There is no "pilot" but there are 2 sizes of flame. The larger happening when more cooling is needed.

Mine will drip a little condensation down side of van. Not a problem AFAIK.

WAG, but even if you made the jet hole slightly larger, it should still stay lit. To a point I guess. (flame size exceeds available oxygen? Edit: not likely. It would just draw more through intake pipe)

Busdepot now carries some of the parts. Here's the jet:

http://busdepot.com/details.jsp?partnumber=255070509E

I've read there may be jets with different size orifices. Possibly for high or low altitude use. I don't recall off hand of any differences between my 182A and 182B jets. (threads, length etc.)

Did you let the stove run a while? Make sure you weren't just using residual gas in lines?

Neil.
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Salem7
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PostPosted: Thu May 26, 2011 6:43 am    Post subject: 182 Dometic Reply with quote

Thanks for the reply. I did have the reefer running for about 7 hours before I called it a night- flame was out in the morning.

You must be genius at Bus Depot site I tried searching for the part but no luck, I sent them an email-didn't hear back. I will have some time today I am going to run it again and see what happens.
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davevickery
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PostPosted: Thu May 26, 2011 9:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am troubleshooting the flame going on mine now too. Seems like I have had every issue imaginable with my fridge. Replaced bad thermocouple, broken igniter, propane leaks, dirt in the system, and now that it has been running, it won't stay lit all the time was getting harder to light since last round of troubleshooting.

My guess is air leaks. I noticed on mine, the replacement gasket I made for the burner box had already deteriorated from the heat and had hairline or thicker gaps in the gasket. I hestated to use high temp silicone gasket since it will be harder to get the cover off again, but I did use some this time. I also noticed the flue tube that has a brass ring to screw it down had come loose and there was a gap in the exhaust tube. I put some exhaust mender on it and am waiting for it to dry to test again.

Seems like if yours was running for hours, the jet must be ok, especially if it was able to get good and cold. I doubt it would get clogged up again that quick.
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Vanagon Nut
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PostPosted: Thu May 26, 2011 9:56 am    Post subject: Re: 182 Dometic Reply with quote

Salem7 wrote:
Thanks for the reply. I did have the reefer running for about 7 hours before I called it a night- flame was out in the morning.

You must be genius at Bus Depot site I tried searching for the part but no luck, I sent them an email-didn't hear back. I will have some time today I am going to run it again and see what happens.


Yes. I are a jenius. Wink

Naw, just got lucky. On another Vanagon list, noticed a post from them on these products.

Was it *really* windy? People say that with a properly working and set up Dometic, this doesn't happen, but with what I think is a weak thermocouple on mine, a good strong wind (or 60 mph for a while) will blow out the flame on mine. At camp I have used Gorilla tape around intake/vent to quell this. Even left it on for an entire trip. Fugly repair, but didn't come loose. ( a "road side" repair)

Neil.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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50 ABA Swap in to '88 Westy: http://tinyurl.com/yap5hpwt

Vanagon VAG GAS engine swap Google Group:
https://tinyurl.com/2f24rmh

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Salem7
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PostPosted: Thu May 26, 2011 10:01 am    Post subject: Dometic RM 182 Reply with quote

Thanks for the input. Not windy, sitting in my carport. I really like the tape repair.
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Vanagon Nut
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PostPosted: Thu May 26, 2011 11:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks. The tape repair was totally boss. Wink

Even minor air leaks in the intake/combustion box/exhaust can cause issues.

One can plug one hole while blowing into the other to check for leaks. This can be done, fridge installed though obviously needs to be done on the bench to correct any problems.

Other possible air leak spots: cracks in corrugated pipes, leaks at screws to combustion chamber, (raised portion of metal pushes away RTV, screws stripped or too small. No don't ask Wink ) gaskets to pipes at combustion chamber, manifold to pipes. (I used Viton O rings to replace mine. Note position of old ones. Confirm that they will butt up against, or close to, the reduced ID (ridge) in manifold. Not certain, but if there's a gap between pipe end and manifold, maybe causes air flow problem? Not likely. Or, if O ring not seated far enough in, may leak at sides. Very likely.

As many others have, I've used Hi Temp RTV w/o issue. Not a big deal to remove parts and clean up.

notes/pic on manifold to body alignment. https://picasaweb.google.com/musomuso/DometicPics#5508482294353809618
Manifold position can be easily disturbed while R&R'ing fridge. (sealant shown NOT needed IMO if parts ok, things lined up right) Can't recall if I removed this.

ridge in manifold

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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1981 Westy air cooled to 15 ABA swap: http://tinyurl.com/y9n4xob8

50 ABA Swap in to '88 Westy: http://tinyurl.com/yap5hpwt

Vanagon VAG GAS engine swap Google Group:
https://tinyurl.com/2f24rmh

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Salem7
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PostPosted: Thu May 26, 2011 7:39 pm    Post subject: No Luck Reply with quote

Tried relighting several times today. No relight. Tomorrow the air hose to the drain and see what happens.

I did seal everything up well, stacks looked good last summer when I had the unit out. If I do not have any luck tomorrow I am ordering a new burner jet and the Go Westy upgrade kit then take the unit out and see what is going on.
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purplepeopleeater
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PostPosted: Thu May 26, 2011 9:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

All these problems people are having makes me want to rebuild mine while its out...or replace it with something better.

but new paint and window seals thats prolly not gunna happen.

mine lights fine, just doesn't get colder then 50 degrees inside.
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davevickery
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PostPosted: Thu May 26, 2011 9:53 pm    Post subject: Re: No Luck Reply with quote

Salem7 wrote:
Tried relighting several times today. No relight. Tomorrow the air hose to the drain and see what happens.

I did seal everything up well, stacks looked good last summer when I had the unit out. If I do not have any luck tomorrow I am ordering a new burner jet and the Go Westy upgrade kit then take the unit out and see what is going on.


I had good luck using compressed air into the drain hole to clear the chamber, so I didn't have to wait to try to re-light it. That will work a whole lot better than the little valve gowesty sells.

Every time I take my fridge out, I find something. I recommend being patient when it is out and testing it a million different ways, starting it hot, cold, on low, on high, etc to see how it likes to get started. Putting it back too soon can be frustrating if it won't start consistently once it is back in the cabinet. I have had mine out 3 times today.

I just pulled out the eye glass plastic piece and I am going to see if it easier it is to view the flame without that dumb thing. I can always find something to plug the hole from the inside.

Try filling the end of the jet with water and blowing through it. If it squirts a nice little stream, the jet is fine. If water kind of dribbles out of at first and squirts nicely later, you know it was clogged.
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PostPosted: Thu May 26, 2011 10:29 pm    Post subject: Re: No Luck Reply with quote

davevickery wrote:



I just pulled out the eye glass plastic piece and I am going to see if it easier it is to view the flame without that dumb thing. I can always find something to plug the hole from the inside.

Try filling the end of the jet with water and blowing through it. If it squirts a nice little stream, the jet is fine. If water kind of dribbles out of at first and squirts nicely later, you know it was clogged.


That's not a bad idea. The glass on the combustion box is pretty big. A clear hole & you should be able to see the flame. Possible drawbacks: maybe the plastic piece is designed to magnify or (defract?) image of flame so you can see it? I doubt it though. And, if plug not 100%, water from defrost or whatever might leak out past new plug. But I'm splitting hairs. Smile

Good point on water squirting. This is exactly what I found too; a nice steady stream and jet is ok. You should be able to see daylight through it too.

@ purplepeopleeater if you left it on for several hours, and it's not like 90+ F inside van, it should get colder than 50F for sure. Mine was down to 26F and that is in ~ 50-60F outside. (it was on overnight and it was colder out) Not braggin, just saying you should see a 30F differential if it's mild weather outside.

Neil.
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50 ABA Swap in to '88 Westy: http://tinyurl.com/yap5hpwt

Vanagon VAG GAS engine swap Google Group:
https://tinyurl.com/2f24rmh

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MootPoint
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PostPosted: Fri May 27, 2011 9:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've posted this a couple of times but I'll do it once more because it's SO much easier:

The sight glass in the Dometic is a royal PITA. Far better way to verify your 'fridge is on is the LED light on the panel. If yours is dead or really dim, the Radio Shack p/n for a blue 'fridge-is-on-and-attempting-to-cool-your-beer LED is 276-316:
    Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

It's an easy fix. You just have to get the polarity of the LED correct. One lead is a hair longer than the other (but I can't remember which way it goes in. If it doesn't work, reverse the LED and its should come to life).
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PostPosted: Fri May 27, 2011 10:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

MootPoint wrote:
I've posted this a couple of times but I'll do it once more because it's SO much easier:

The sight glass in the Dometic is a royal PITA. Far better way to verify your 'fridge is on is the LED light on the panel. If yours is dead or really dim, the Radio Shack p/n for a blue 'fridge-is-on-and-attempting-to-cool-your-beer LED is 276-316:

It's an easy fix. You just have to get the polarity of the LED correct. One lead is a hair longer than the other (but I can't remember which way it goes in. If it doesn't work, reverse the LED and its should come to life).


Hi MootPoint, I was going through a similar situation the other day and found that my light works on ac but not when on propane.
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Salem7
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PostPosted: Fri May 27, 2011 6:01 pm    Post subject: Update Reply with quote

Compressed air blow out through the drain. Reefer lit off, ran for about 1/2 hour and shut down again, no restart. Time to order some parts and take the reefer out.

I think I have an older model with no thermocouple for a glowing lamp. Or am I mistaken and it is on the water tank level display, the 4th indicator at the bottom?
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PostPosted: Fri May 27, 2011 6:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wouldn't order parts until you know what is wrong. Maybe the jet is clogged but probably it isn't damaged. When you take the fridge out, you will find something. It only takes a few minutes now to pull the fridge after doing it so many times. I cut some of the cardboard backing behind the fridge to give me more room to get the flue in/out without it getting caught. And when you put the fridge back in, don't secure the screws or the flue until you fully test it, because most likely you will have to pull it out repeatedly (if you have as much bad like as I've had).

The 4th light on the left with the * symbol is for the fridge. It glows bright on 12 volt and glows dimly when the fridge is lit on propane. But there is a delay after it is lit for the voltage to come up enough to light the led. Same delay when the flame goes out. And some are brighter than others. To get around that, I hooked up a multimeter to read the signal off the black wire from the thermocouple that feeds that led. That is SO MUCH better than any other method of seeing if the flame is lit and it tells you a lot more. Totally worth the trouble to figure out how to hook it up. I also pulled out the plastic eye glass and I can see the flame directly through the hole even in daylight. The plastic thing can go right back in the hole from the inside of the fridge to keep the fridge sealed up.

There are lot of reasons the fridge can go out. I think the most common one is they go out right after lighting them just because the convection process hasn't got going yet to bring in fresh air. Also air leaks or restrictions, low regulator pressure or a bad thermocouple and probably ten other things.

Mine is back in operation now running at 39 degrees, and I'm crossing my fingers it will stay lit and re-light whenever I want it to. I have a new regulator and I noticed the fridge seemed to light easier on the portable tank, so I am thinking about having the regulator pressure checked. I read posts that show the new ones are often way out of adjustment.
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Salem7
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PostPosted: Fri May 27, 2011 8:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK Thanks for the words of encouragement. I had the reefer running a couple of days on the bench really cold last summer, Guess I have another project. I might just try blowing it out again and see what happens. I need to trouble shoot the indicator light too.
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PostPosted: Fri May 27, 2011 10:33 pm    Post subject: Re: Update Reply with quote

Salem7 wrote:
Compressed air blow out through the drain. Reefer lit off, ran for about 1/2 hour and shut down again, no restart. Time to order some parts and take the reefer out.

I think I have an older model with no thermocouple for a glowing lamp. Or am I mistaken and it is on the water tank level display, the 4th indicator at the bottom?


Sounds like an air issue.

Your fridge will have a thermocouple in the combustion box.

There should be a wire from spade connector at saftey valve to a another connector then off to meter/led. This detail should be shown in Bentley.

182B

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


182A (wire not as easy to see. Follow thin black wire from meter in RH of image to connection at safety valve)

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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1981 Westy air cooled to 15 ABA swap: http://tinyurl.com/y9n4xob8

50 ABA Swap in to '88 Westy: http://tinyurl.com/yap5hpwt

Vanagon VAG GAS engine swap Google Group:
https://tinyurl.com/2f24rmh

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PostPosted: Sat May 28, 2011 5:24 pm    Post subject: Thanks Reply with quote

Great pix, I appreciate the walk through-Reefer is coming out as soon as I figure out the evap. leak code on my daughters 2000 Jetta 2.0 NA. Check engine light is on. Never ending projects!
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PostPosted: Sat May 28, 2011 5:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm pretty stoked. My fridge ran all night. It was 24 degrees this morning and peaked at 41 degrees this afternoon. A couple pics to prove it.

I did find it doesn't want to light on propane without me running it on 12V or 110 for 15 minutes or longer. My other fridge didn't need that, but I guess they all have their own peculiarities.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Good luck with yours (and to me that mine keeps running)
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PostPosted: Sun May 29, 2011 10:27 am    Post subject: Re: Thanks Reply with quote

Salem7 wrote:
Great pix, I appreciate the walk through-Reefer is coming out as soon as I figure out the evap. leak code on my daughters 2000 Jetta 2.0 NA. Check engine light is on. Never ending projects!


You're welcome. I should say though that I've posted some or all these pics elsewhere here not to mention all the info others have contributed. The information is there. Smile

re 2.0 check the gas cap.

I learned a bit of the Mk3 EVAP (though your daughters is Mk4?) due to my engine swap. That 2.0 likely has a Leak Detection Pump. The LDP etc. in EVAP system does a vacuum self-test at certain times.

Oops. edit: performs a pressure self-test at certain times. Not vacuum. <palm to forehead> Sheesh. Rolling Eyes

Even a minor leak will light up the MIL.

IF there's a minor leak elsewhere, finding it can be a challenge. IF a smoke tester is applicable, IIRC, there's info here on how to build one. And if you can spend time weeding through the threads, there should be accurate info in one of these forums:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/forumdisplay.php?5003-Technical-(VW-Audi)

OK I'll stop now. Don't want to get too far OT and have this thread locked!


Neil.[/url]
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1981 Westy air cooled to 15 ABA swap: http://tinyurl.com/y9n4xob8

50 ABA Swap in to '88 Westy: http://tinyurl.com/yap5hpwt

Vanagon VAG GAS engine swap Google Group:
https://tinyurl.com/2f24rmh

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