Starting to collect parts for a class 11 build questions

[barrelroll]

I tired posting on class 11 coalition but there's not much traffic on there any more and I know there's a bunch of knowledge here.

I've been involved with chasing and prepping for 10 years, just never anything VW based. I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on a class 11 build and am going to start with picking up a couple lots of parts, getting parts prepped, and then pulling the trigger on a solid car missing a motor/ in project status once everything is ready to go in. The long term plan is to race the 1,000 once the car is dialed in, this isn't a "bucket list" build but more of a long term build a race program.

One of the lots has a 1600 dual port and the other is a '65, '69, '76, parts cars and a '71 pan. Both lots come with a ton of parts.I've seen how spares are huge in desert racing and we DNFed the 1,000 last year because our spare trailing arm was 6 hours away on the other side of the peninsula. My plan is to use the best parts of the lot to build the race car, acquire a bunch of spare parts, and sell what doesn't belong on a race car.

With the lot of parts I should have 3 Ball joint beams, 2 IRS transaxles, a complete 1600 dual port, a pile of sheet metal, a bunch of extra motor parts, and then a bunch of stuff that has no business being on an off road car like glass and interior parts.

I've Started to make lists of parts as far as what to keep and what to sell. Please give me some direction if this is the right stuff to keep


Here's my list of stuff I plan on keeping everything of
-Brake Drums & wheel bearings
-Spindles
-Front Trailing Arms
-Steering Boxes
-Tie Rods
-Front beam Springs
-Rear Trailing Arms
-Solex 30 Carburetors
-Starters
-Alternators/ generators
-Distributors/ plug wires/ coils
-Pullies/ belts
-Rubber Brake Lines
-Master Cylinders
-Wheel Cylinders
-Clutches
-Clutch Cables
-Throttle Cables
-Transaxles
-Hardware
-4 Lug wheels

Stuff I think I only need 1 extra of in addition of 1 of everything for the race car
-Doors
-Fenders
-Hood/ deck lid
-Tail Lights
-Bumpers
-Roof
-Steering Column
-Beam
-Parts to build a spare motor

Stuff I'm not sure if I should keep/ how much I should keep
-Stock Torsion Bars
-Spring Plates
-Fly Wheels
-Shifter/ Clutch Linkage parts
-Engine Tin/ Fans
-Wiring Harnesses
-Switches
-Exhaust parts
-Intake parts
-Type 1 CV's/ axles shafts/ stub axles
-Brake backing plates/ shoes/ brake hardware

Parts I plan on selling
-Glass
-Seats/ Door Panels/ Interior Parts
-Wiper parts
-Dash Parts
-Trim
-'65 Pan/ link pin beam/ transaxle
-Heater Parts
-Everything 6 volt
-Gas Tanks
-Multiples of stuff on the only keeping 1 list

What am I missing that I should be keeping?

What have you thrown out or sold and regret getting rid of?

Thanks a ton, once everything gets home I'll get a build thread started.

[petrol punk]

I don't have much to add, other than you can keep the T1 CV axles, machine the flange off, turn new 4130/4140/4340 flanges, and weld them on to have a T2 conversion stub axle. That's what I've been doing with my old T1 stubs.
_________________
36hp '56 European DeLuxe oval
'70 bug 1835cc

[oldschool5er]

-Brake Drums & wheel bearing
Rules state you can now use disc brakes so lightweight quality disc brakes are better than drum for racing.
-Spindles
You should keep these even though you will probably replace them with modified stock, but these will be good as cores.
-Front Trailing Arms
Keep
-Steering Boxes
Keep, even though there is some ongoing debate about allowing rack and pinion to stay in the rules.
-Tie Rods
Keep
-Front beam Springs
Keep even though you might be using sway a way or the like.
-Rear Trailing Arms
Keep, as you will be modding those or using them as cores.
-Solex 30 Carburetors
Keep, unless you are going the low compression option and using a single two barrel.
-Starters
You are probably going to be using a SR17x or a high torque, but you might want to keep them for swap meets.
-Alternators/ generators
Keep the Alternators for cores.
-Distributors/ plug wires/ coils
Swap meet material.
-Pullies/ belts
Swap meet.

-Rubber Brake Lines
Trash.
-Master Cylinders
Trash.
-Wheel Cylinders
Swap meet, if you are going to Disc setup.
-Clutches
Swap meet.
-Clutch Cables
Trash.
-Throttle Cables
Trash.
-Transaxles
Keep.
-Hardware
Keep.
-4 Lug wheels
Keep.

Stuff I think I only need 1 extra of in addition of 1 of everything for the race car
-Doors
Keep all that match or work for the year body you plan on running.
-Fenders
Keep all that match for year of body you plan on running.

-Hood/ deck lid
Keep all that match your year of body you are running.
-Tail Lights
Keep all that match your year of body you are running.
-Bumpers
Keep all that match your year of body you are running.
-Roof
If you are going to need a roof then more than likely you are going to need ¼ panels, pillars, on and on also. Maybe just easier to find another body if you roll it.
-Steering Column
Rules allow you to make one now but you might want to save hub spline.
-Beam
Keep.
-Parts to build a spare motor
Keep what is rebuildable or used as cores.

Stuff I'm not sure if I should keep/ how much I should keep
-Stock Torsion Bars
Swap meet.
-Spring Plates
Keep for use in mock ups or pattern making.
-Fly Wheels
Keep
-Shifter/ Clutch Linkage parts
Keep
-Engine Tin/ Fans
Keep
-Wiring Harnesses
Keep
-Switches
Swap meet.
-Exhaust parts
Swap meet.
-Intake parts
Keep all dual port.
-Type 1 CV's/ axles shafts/ stub axles
Swap meet as you will be buying high quality billet from race suppliers same with CV’s.
-Brake backing plates/ shoes/ brake hardware
None of that needed if you go to disc.

Parts I plan on selling
-Glass
-Seats/ Door Panels/ Interior Parts
-Wiper parts
-Dash Parts
-Trim
-'65 Pan/ link pin beam/ transaxle
-Heater Parts
-Everything 6 volt
-Gas Tanks

[L5wolvesf]

I essentially had access to a lot of parts similar to what you've described. While we didn't use all of them we did some trading for other things we needed. Also, having spares is always a good thing in any race program. It would have been difficult and more costly if we did not have what we got.

Where are you planning to run before Baja?

Good luck.
_________________
Amonster Motorsports

SNORE # 1196 sponsored by:
- www.356carburetorrescue.com/home.html
- Barnwerks Fabrication & Welding
- ArtSpeed Graphics

“Racing's important to men who do it well. When you're racing, it's life. Anything that happens before or after is just waiting.”
S. McQueen

[barrelroll]

[overdrive]

Do your self a fave and just buy a used 1-2 1600 they can be had for 10-12 K, You spend close to that for a 11 car from scratch.

And you will be running a car that other racers don't hate.

[barrelroll]

[MI-Bug]

Looks like you are local to the projectbaja.com guys. You may want to pick their brains once they get back in town.

[overdrive]

So spend 15K and prep it. You will have a real race car.

LOL so you know the haters from running the golf carts

[oldschool5er]

[L5wolvesf]

FWIW, we bought a car that had run Baja several times and survived. We took it apart (left the body on the chassis) and went through it completely. We improved some things and repaired some things.

Like you said by doing that we knew every part and every nut and bolt – it was well worth it.

The car was essentially flawless – except we forgot to check the windshield wipers. We finished 7th out of 19 and if we didn’t get a flat just before the end of the first day we would have been 4th.

We used the stock tank for short courses (Laughlin and Primm) the extra fuel capacity of a large rear tank and the weight weren’t needed and the front tank gave us a better weight distribution.

Far as people hating Class 11s goes – that is their problem.

Love this attitude -