Shifting trouble

[junichi]

I have a 1978 2 litre FI Westy that is having shifting problems. A search here led me to adjust my shifter plate, following a few different procedures, and finally according to the Bentley. It helped, but it's not cured.

It has trouble going into 1st, and sometimes 2nd. For first gear, it feels like something is stopping it from going in.. like an opening or gate that is smaller than what i'm trying to push through it. It goes if I wiggle and push hard enough, sometimes a double clutch. Also helps to be rolling or have a cold engine. Not a problem at all if the engine is off. Second is slightly less of the same problem. If I hit it at the right speed, it goes in smooth. If I shift too soon, it's like a gate again. It never grinds in either gear. Reverse goes in easily, but with a THUNK every time. It doesn't grind either.

So as I say, the shifter plate helped, but maybe made it 50% better.. What should I do next? There was a mechanical report from a few years ago that said it needed a new clutch cable.. could this help? Clutch engages nice an low on the pedal, no slipping or anything.

Thanks

[Heliconman]

We also have a 78 and have had shifter problems that sound the same as yours. I replaced the front bushing and shift coupler which helped but the cause for the problem was the clutch cable. I replaced it with a new one and found that I have had to keep adjusting the cable like it is streching a lot.

I did a search and also a friend who has several buses also mentioned the ground cable from the trans to the body might be corroded which causes the clutch cable to become the ground and all the current flowing through the cable causes it to heat up and stretch. I just replaced the ground strap today and it looked pretty bad when I removed the old one.

Try putting it in 1st gear hold the clutch in and start it. See if it tries to roll a little like the clutch is not fully disengaged.

[aeromech]

I recently purchased a 1978 bus that had trouble finding gears. It turned out to be the front shift rod bushing. I suggest you drop the front splash pan and inspect yours. If you decide to replace the front bushing you'll have to do two things.

1) Remove the shifter. Be sure to look at the orientation of the reverse lock out plate and see that it matches the Bentley pictures.

2) A couple feet aft of the front of the shift rod is a coupling where the front rod connects to the aft rod. There is a grub screw to remove and then you can separate the rods. This will allow the front rod to move aft enough to get the bushing in place. You have to do it this way, no shortcuts.

Before

after

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[SGKent]

if it shifts fine when stopped then it is likely to be the clutch (broken or mis-adjusted) or the pilot bearing is dry. It could be the syncro gears are worn too.
_________________
George Carlin:
"Most people don't know what they're doing, and a lot of them are really good at it."

Skills@EuroCarsPlus:
"never time to do it right but always time to do it twice"

[junichi]

Thank you all. I will work my way through the list, starting with the cheap and/or easy stuff. Hope it's not a clutch cause I don't have the time, money or skill for that.

[junichi]

Something else that may be relevant: My shift knob hits the parking brake when I shift into 1 or 3, which I assume it shouldn't...could this be a sign of excessive wear?

[Wildthings]

[Dougy Dee]

The situation sounds like the clutch isn't quite disengaging enough. Check the clutch cable adjustment screw at the trans end to see whether you have any thread left. If you do wind it in several turns. If not swap out that cable.

[SGKent]

as you indicated about hitting the parking brake in 1st, you have wear in the coupler, shift plate broken and/or out of adjustment, possible loose grub screw and likely worn ball in the nosecone. These are all inexpensive parts but the engine and trans have to come out to repair some of these items. The fact it goes in fine when stopped means either the clutch and/or pilot bearing drag or the syncros are so worn they no longer work. It can also mean that the gear oil is the wrong kind.

You also indicate you don't have time or skill for these items so I would tell you to sell the bus or park it in the garage and put it up on blocks before you do serious damage to it that will cost $1000's to repair instead of a couple hundred dollars.
_________________
George Carlin:
"Most people don't know what they're doing, and a lot of them are really good at it."

Skills@EuroCarsPlus:
"never time to do it right but always time to do it twice"

[my59]

When I got our bus, my knuckles took some damage hitting the dash when shifting into third, and you had to 'hunt' for the gears when shifting, with a pause in the middle spot before you went to gear.

The bushing by the tranny was ok, and the other two were toast; the front one was non existant. Replaced those, which made it a bit better. My knuckles healed.
Then I replaced the worn shifter and front rod/cup assembly for a used one that was less worn and adjusted the shifter plate, which made it 'more better'. Something tells me that a brand new shifter assembly would do even better.
_________________
my59: Well son, my grandfather died before I got to drive it, so does that answer your question?
our79: sunroof bus w/camper interior and 2.0 FI
Other:'12 Jetta, '77 Benz 300D, and a 74 MG Midget.

[VDubTech]

I had a similar situation in my '79. Replaced the cable and bowden tube, the clevis pin, etc etc. and it turned out to be a bad pilot bearing. There was nothin left of it. Sounds like you're gonna be learning to pull a Bus motor pretty quick.
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[LeeE]

Just a suggestion, this might be what's happening.
When I bought my '78 Westy, my hand would almost hit the parking brake handle also, the shift for 1 and 3 was way too far forward. I replaced the front bushing but it made no difference.
I discovered that I had an early 002 3-rib trans instead of the correct 091 6-rib. When I replaced the trans, I had a normal shift pattern much farther back.
_________________
1978 Westfalia stock 2.0 FI
Welcome to the Okeedokee Swamp

[RatCamper]

[junichi]

hmm.. how do i tell if I have the right trans??

Heliconman: It does jump ever so slightly if i start it with no brakes and in first gear with clutch in.. so i guess the clutch cable is needed.

I will follow up on the other suggestions as well...

Thanks everyone.

[nodrenim]

If you need to replace the clutch cable, try to get the original german quality, as most aftermarket ones are a much smaller diameter cable and will stretch like crazy. I replaced one in a 72 bus, with the brazilian cable, my foot slipped off the pedal about 2 weeks later and the cable stretched about 1 and 1/2 inches. Talk about bumbed out! I then checked the cables thickness and discovered the real culprit. Peace

[aeromech]

[junichi]

hmm.. i have a clutch cable sitting here from CIP1... I'll make sure to check it before putting it in.

Thanks

[SGKent]

you want GEMO cables only.
_________________
George Carlin:
"Most people don't know what they're doing, and a lot of them are really good at it."

Skills@EuroCarsPlus:
"never time to do it right but always time to do it twice"

[junichi]

I adjusted the clutch cable today and all is well.. though it needs replacing for sure.

[Heliconman]