how to remove the injectors 1975 bus fi

Tim in alaska

I did a search on this and nothing came up... My manual says remove them. thats it. woould one of you fine folk tell me how this is done as I find that if I start pulling wires and undoing screws without knowing what I am doing it ends costing me a lot of time and money. Thanik you in advance and by the way thanks also for all the other great help this group has give me.

SGKent · Posted: Mon Sep 14, 2015 2:31 pm Post subject:

each injector is held in by a clamp that goes over top of it. One nut holds that clamp. There will be two replaceable rubber seals for each that you will need. Also the plastic will be brittle so be gentle with the electrical connectors. There is a wire hoop that goes all the way around you will need to spring open a little to get them off.

from gallery. You can see the nut on the clamp, and the plastic connector on the injector.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

EDIT OUT
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Tcash · Posted: Mon Sep 14, 2015 2:49 pm Post subject:

Don't cut the hose unless you have hose and extra hose clamps to replace it.
It is a good idea to replace the hoses while you are in there.
7mm injection hose.

What is it that you are doing?

Good Luck
Tcash

airschooled · Posted: Mon Sep 14, 2015 7:07 pm Post subject:

Wouldn't it be prudent to put suction on the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator first, so you can allow the residual pressure to equalize and avoid spraying fuel out of the freshly-cut lines?
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SGKent · Posted: Mon Sep 14, 2015 8:25 pm Post subject:

Tim in alaska · Posted: Tue Sep 15, 2015 12:21 pm Post subject: removing injectors

thanks for your replies to this folks.. tcash I am trying to trouble shoot a low Idle and rough Idle and sometimes a hiccup on highway. In short I did comlete tune up by the book... then timed to 2800 with both hoses to distributor off and plugged... I tested fuel pressuress per the manual and all came out ok so have taken the pressure valve and pump off the list. I did replace fuel filter. I also tested aar valve per the book... I have no problem with starts either cold or hot..... so Now I am going to test the temp sensors and if they are ok going to look at the injectors.....

can I ask too do the injectors have to be cut from the fuel ring that is the hose that connects or does it pop off... regarding fuel pressures when you take them off... at pressure test I took the bolt off the fuel ring and attached pressure gauge there... there was an initial little spray but not alot.

Also could you advise what the sensor is that is shown in the photo ... I thought I had found sensor 1 afm and sensor two in back close to cyl 3 what is this one up by cyl 4.

thanks folks tim

SGKent · Posted: Tue Sep 15, 2015 12:27 pm Post subject:

that photo is #3. left side front.

Hiccup can be a slug of water, loose valve seat, bad plug wire or plug, worn points, bad cap or rotor, loose wire, afm track worn. Start with the easiest items first. Add some fuel drier to the gas and see if that helps. Run a bottle of injector cleaner (techron) thru the tank if that doesn't get it. Check the points if you haven't already replaced them. Look at the inside of the cap for carbon tracks. If it happens more in damp weather suspect the plug wires.
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"Most people don't know what they're doing, and a lot of them are really good at it." - George Carlin

Tim in alaska · Posted: Tue Sep 15, 2015 12:30 pm Post subject: fuel injectors

woops I think the one shown is temp sensor II the one I am uncertain of is just forward and below the distributor. I know I should get photo but my computer skills are lacking. thanks again

SGKent · Posted: Tue Sep 15, 2015 12:32 pm Post subject: Re: fuel injectors

SGKent · Posted: Tue Sep 15, 2015 12:35 pm Post subject:

oh - the injectors are barbed so once the hose is on it has to be cut off. Most of us put clamps on them when replacing the hose although VW did not. The clamps must have rolled sides so not to cut the hose.
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"Most people don't know what they're doing, and a lot of them are really good at it." - George Carlin

Tcash · Posted: Tue Sep 15, 2015 1:52 pm Post subject:

Right below the distributor is the oil light switch.

The one with the brown connector is the TTS (thermal time switch).
Pull the three white wires and clean the connectors for the Injection system.

The TSII (temp. sensor two) causes most of the problems.

Good luck
Tcash

Tim in alaska · Posted: Tue Sep 15, 2015 2:26 pm Post subject: injectors

thank you again for taking the time and trouble to help us pooor old newbys that are just learnin... best to you all tim

rshepard10 · Samba Member Joined: December 28, 2013 Posts: 127

That photo looks familiar Wink

Also notice the massive fuel line the "mechanic" put on coming from the pump and just clamped down as hard as he could. Cause of my fuel leak Mad

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1994 Jeep YJ (Jurassic Park #22)
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busdaddy · Posted: Tue Sep 15, 2015 10:02 pm Post subject:

And the lack of a grommet where it passes through the tin, quality work there Confused

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rshepard10 · Samba Member Joined: December 28, 2013 Posts: 127

Right? That guy was a piece of work Rolling Eyes

But that picture came from my injector questions thread a while back
_________________
1978 VW Deluxe 2000cc FI
1994 Jeep YJ (Jurassic Park #22)
Certified Diagnostic Mercedes-Benz Technician

Tim in alaska · Posted: Tue Sep 22, 2015 5:15 pm Post subject: what the but thanks

well being a new by or what ever and also not being computer r literate it looks like I made the over seers of this site unhappy...

when I look at this engine My jaw just goes slack as I mostly have no idea what I am doing... i have rebuilt an old willys pickup took it all apart and put it back to one piece and got it running and sold it. On the willys site you asked questions each time you ran into a problem. folks were pretty happy to help you out.

I thought it was pretty much the same here as I received a lot of good input. I do have the bentley manual and also the bosch fi manual and try to get things done by it before I post here.

as you can no doubt see from my posts I am just looking for answers...and am sure sorry that new threads are a problem with the administrator. I am just trying to narrow things down to help me with what I know almost nothing about... I sure do appreciate you folks for the past answers which have helped me muchly.... best to you in reply to the block and leave it on

Tcash · Posted: Tue Sep 22, 2015 6:32 pm Post subject:

No worries. It is easier to follow along and see what repairs you have made if it is located in one thread.
If you have a different question. Change the subject title.
Maybe use this thread?
click on link
1975 bus 1800 fi

Good Luck
Tcash

Tim in alaska · Posted: Tue Sep 22, 2015 9:40 pm Post subject: bad idle tcash

hello tcash and thanks again for all your help... i am going a this in dinda of a shotgun type of way.. my latest is in reading the manual i see where to check egr and throttle you should pull electric from egr and run throttle in and out to see how egr reacts.... when taking off this electrical connection to the egr vacuum i find that the connection to the controller only has one contact that is the blue connector has one connector that is there and one that is non existant... there can be no connection between the throttle and egr... we do not have emmission controlls here and I am wondering if when whoever rebuilt the engine just deleted this from the plug...... would seem like ther could have just taken this off... but with vw you never know i am finding out... could you advise would this cause an idle problem and just how does the blue connector from the controller connect to the controller... can the large black rubber connectionbe rolled back from the blue connector... thanks for your help tim and sure appreciate your help.

Tcash · Posted: Tue Sep 22, 2015 10:15 pm Post subject: Re: bad idle tcash

75 Westy FI noob · Posted: Mon Dec 05, 2022 1:18 pm Post subject:


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