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bikeboy480
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Joined: November 11, 2008
Posts: 105
Location: Houston,tx
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 07, 2011 7:32 pm    Post subject: Shes naked, now what... Reply with quote

OK, I think I screwed up. About a week ago I finally started on the body work on my 71 type 2. Over the course of several days I used Tal - Strip and a wire wheel to get a majority of the ole girl down to bare metal. I am now in the process of using a sand blaster to get the nooks and crannies cleaned up. Today while I was working on it I noticed some very light flash rust on the body panels I had already stripped. I turned to the trusty Samba to figure out the best way to clean the rust up and prevent more while I finish prepping her for paint. In reading I realize that I should NOT have stripped it until I could finish the job within a day or two.

My question is what should I do now? Theres no way I can have her ready for color in less than a week. What can I do to prevent any further damage? Should I Por-15 the whole thing and they etch and prime it or is that useless? I read that primer is permeable so I dont know how much good that will do.

Any help y'all can offer is greatly appreciated. I know I screwed up but I hope you can help me figure out the best way forward.
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BDubVdub
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Joined: October 11, 2006
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 07, 2011 8:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd just continue to strip it. It's barely surface rust that you're getting. When it's ready for paint, take some extremely fine (#0000) steel wool and a lacquer thinner/paint prep and go over the entire body and thoroughly dry.
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Mike Fisher
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 08, 2011 8:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I always use Rust-Prep or similar phosphoric acid solution on bare metal to turn the rust black/inert.
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bikeboy480
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Location: Houston,tx
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 08, 2011 9:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do you know if this stuff is any good?

http://www.zero-rust.com/

I wasnt able to find Rust-Prep for sale in anything but singe aerosol cans. I dont think I want to do my entire bus with rattle cans...

Also, does anyone know if this stuff serves as an etch and or primer?
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RatCamper
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Joined: November 13, 2008
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 09, 2011 1:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The locked thread in the Bay forum

I agree with what skills said in the other thread. Nothing beats epoxies for keeping moisture out. Not sure what skills is using though. I'm using epoxy enamel paint to protect bits of my bus for now until it's at a stage where it's worthwhile stripping and spraying, but that stuff can be incredibly unwieldy to use. It's probably something a bit different that skills is using.
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Jalabert
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 09, 2011 4:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There is an impermeable red oxide primer on the market - the name escapes me now. For something to cover bare metal and halt any kind of rust before final body prep - that is what I used, after doing as Mike suggests and painting every piece of bare metal with a phosphoric acid based solution. I took bloody ages to finish my bodywork - like eight or nine months - and had minimal issues when it came time to remove the primer and do the final prep. But there seem to be plenty of ways to eat an elephant, if you get my drift.
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grandpa pete
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 09, 2011 9:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ospho or any osphoric acid product will get rid of your new surface rust...let it sit 24 hours and spray primer on...put some kind of sealer over the pourous primer or it will rust again...I use rostoleum rattle cans for primer and a temporary sealer(temporary sealer has been on my vert for4 years).As you work your wayaround the bus doing body work the metal is protected Cool
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bikeboy480
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Joined: November 11, 2008
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Location: Houston,tx
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 10, 2011 2:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the advice guys. I'm glad I didn't screw it up as badly as I first thought I did. My local paint store said they did not stock any of the items y'all recommended but they did have and suggest PPG dx579 and dx520 which is apparently very similar in concept to the ospho. The only downside to that approach is that when I go to apply it, I must do so by hand with a red scotchbrite pad. Given the amount of sheet metal on a Bay that promises to be quite time consuming.

Do any of you have any experience with PPG?
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W1K1
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Joined: March 04, 2004
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 10, 2011 4:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have been using zero rust for 10 years, I also use picklex 20 for bare steel prep.
Check out the autobodystore.com for both products, they also have a forum for bodywork help. Lots of info on the picklex and zero-rust, no good things to say about por15 though.

wanna guess which panel was sprayed with zero-rust?

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


It was a wierd coicidence, I ran out of red oxide and reordered but they shipped me safety red so i mixed them 50/50 and had a bang on match for 46 year old ruby red. Wink
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