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bikeboy480 Samba Member
Joined: November 11, 2008 Posts: 105 Location: Houston,tx
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Posted: Mon Nov 07, 2011 7:32 pm Post subject: Shes naked, now what... |
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OK, I think I screwed up. About a week ago I finally started on the body work on my 71 type 2. Over the course of several days I used Tal - Strip and a wire wheel to get a majority of the ole girl down to bare metal. I am now in the process of using a sand blaster to get the nooks and crannies cleaned up. Today while I was working on it I noticed some very light flash rust on the body panels I had already stripped. I turned to the trusty Samba to figure out the best way to clean the rust up and prevent more while I finish prepping her for paint. In reading I realize that I should NOT have stripped it until I could finish the job within a day or two.
My question is what should I do now? Theres no way I can have her ready for color in less than a week. What can I do to prevent any further damage? Should I Por-15 the whole thing and they etch and prime it or is that useless? I read that primer is permeable so I dont know how much good that will do.
Any help y'all can offer is greatly appreciated. I know I screwed up but I hope you can help me figure out the best way forward. |
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BDubVdub Samba Member
Joined: October 11, 2006 Posts: 612
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Posted: Mon Nov 07, 2011 8:20 pm Post subject: |
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I'd just continue to strip it. It's barely surface rust that you're getting. When it's ready for paint, take some extremely fine (#0000) steel wool and a lacquer thinner/paint prep and go over the entire body and thoroughly dry. |
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Mike Fisher Samba Member

Joined: January 30, 2006 Posts: 18046 Location: Eugene, OR
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Posted: Tue Nov 08, 2011 8:33 am Post subject: |
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I always use Rust-Prep or similar phosphoric acid solution on bare metal to turn the rust black/inert. _________________ https://imgur.com/user/FisherSquareback/posts
69 FI/AT square Daily Driver
66 sunroof,67,70,71,71,71AT,72,72AT,73 Parts
two 57 oval ragtops sold
'68 Karmann Ghia sold
Society is like stew. If you don't keep it stirred up you end up with a lot of scum on the top! - Russ_Wolfe/Edward Abbey |
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bikeboy480 Samba Member
Joined: November 11, 2008 Posts: 105 Location: Houston,tx
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Posted: Tue Nov 08, 2011 9:55 am Post subject: |
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Do you know if this stuff is any good?
http://www.zero-rust.com/
I wasnt able to find Rust-Prep for sale in anything but singe aerosol cans. I dont think I want to do my entire bus with rattle cans...
Also, does anyone know if this stuff serves as an etch and or primer? |
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RatCamper Samba Member

Joined: November 13, 2008 Posts: 3305 Location: Australia
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Posted: Wed Nov 09, 2011 1:22 pm Post subject: |
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The locked thread in the Bay forum
I agree with what skills said in the other thread. Nothing beats epoxies for keeping moisture out. Not sure what skills is using though. I'm using epoxy enamel paint to protect bits of my bus for now until it's at a stage where it's worthwhile stripping and spraying, but that stuff can be incredibly unwieldy to use. It's probably something a bit different that skills is using. _________________ Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based pop-top camper (LCA / Sunliner). Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002. |
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Jalabert Samba Member
Joined: December 06, 2005 Posts: 680 Location: On the coast in NZ, somewhere...
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Posted: Wed Nov 09, 2011 4:41 pm Post subject: |
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There is an impermeable red oxide primer on the market - the name escapes me now. For something to cover bare metal and halt any kind of rust before final body prep - that is what I used, after doing as Mike suggests and painting every piece of bare metal with a phosphoric acid based solution. I took bloody ages to finish my bodywork - like eight or nine months - and had minimal issues when it came time to remove the primer and do the final prep. But there seem to be plenty of ways to eat an elephant, if you get my drift. _________________ '73 westy, 1700 type 4 with 34icts |
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grandpa pete Samba Member

Joined: July 06, 2008 Posts: 6426 Location: St. Petersburg, FL
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Posted: Wed Nov 09, 2011 9:51 pm Post subject: |
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ospho or any osphoric acid product will get rid of your new surface rust...let it sit 24 hours and spray primer on...put some kind of sealer over the pourous primer or it will rust again...I use rostoleum rattle cans for primer and a temporary sealer(temporary sealer has been on my vert for4 years).As you work your wayaround the bus doing body work the metal is protected  _________________ 63 two fold rag
66 sedan delivery Type 6
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=569619&highlight=sedan+delivery |
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bikeboy480 Samba Member
Joined: November 11, 2008 Posts: 105 Location: Houston,tx
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Posted: Thu Nov 10, 2011 2:21 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks for the advice guys. I'm glad I didn't screw it up as badly as I first thought I did. My local paint store said they did not stock any of the items y'all recommended but they did have and suggest PPG dx579 and dx520 which is apparently very similar in concept to the ospho. The only downside to that approach is that when I go to apply it, I must do so by hand with a red scotchbrite pad. Given the amount of sheet metal on a Bay that promises to be quite time consuming.
Do any of you have any experience with PPG? |
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W1K1 Samba Member

Joined: March 04, 2004 Posts: 5317 Location: Southern AB
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Posted: Thu Nov 10, 2011 4:17 pm Post subject: |
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I have been using zero rust for 10 years, I also use picklex 20 for bare steel prep.
Check out the autobodystore.com for both products, they also have a forum for bodywork help. Lots of info on the picklex and zero-rust, no good things to say about por15 though.
wanna guess which panel was sprayed with zero-rust?
It was a wierd coicidence, I ran out of red oxide and reordered but they shipped me safety red so i mixed them 50/50 and had a bang on match for 46 year old ruby red.  _________________ 1973 super 2110cc
1965 squareback 1500E-sold
1971 bay window westy- EJ2.5 subi swap |
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