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74 super beetle cranks but won't start
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knuclebuster
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 22, 2011 11:21 am    Post subject: 74 super beetle cranks but won't start Reply with quote

we replaced the alternator, plugs, wires, points, condensor, distributor cap, and battery. When we finished the car would turn over but now won't start. Right before we did al of this the car would start fine, but the battery would go dead. now, we get a flow of gas into the pump but nothing from the pump up into the carb. Help?
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Tdog71
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 22, 2011 11:31 am    Post subject: Re: 74 super beetle cranks but won't start Reply with quote

knuclebuster wrote:
we replaced the alternator, plugs, wires, points, condensor, distributor cap, and battery. When we finished the car would turn over but now won't start. Right before we did al of this the car would start fine, but the battery would go dead. now, we get a flow of gas into the pump but nothing from the pump up into the carb. Help?


I think you just answered your own question. "now, we get a flow of gas into the pump but nothing from the pump up into the carb." check that line for clogging. If its not clogged, bad fuel pump
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knuclebuster
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 22, 2011 11:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

we disconnected the line from the pump and drained it. and them we used a suction bulb to suck gas from the pump out. before we replaced everything the pump worked fine. would points and plugs make a difference?
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wayne1230cars
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 22, 2011 11:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pull the fuel line from pump to carb. Turn the engine over with just a wrench on the pulley. Have a container to catch the gas. You should get a good spurt as you turn the engine over each time. If not, I think you have found your problem. Some of the new fuel pumps are not exactly noted for their quality or longevity. Alternator equipped cars require a specific fuel pump and rod as compared to a generator car.
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knuclebuster
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 22, 2011 11:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

we dind't change the fuel pump, its the original one thats been on the car
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knuclebuster
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 22, 2011 11:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

wayne, we just did what you said. some gas came out but there was a hissing sound. ?
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phmical
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 22, 2011 11:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

spray some starter fluid down the carb ,.... maybe she just needs a good JOLT ,....
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wayne1230cars
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 22, 2011 11:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

knuclebuster wrote:
we disconnected the line from the pump and drained it. and them we used a suction bulb to suck gas from the pump out. before we replaced everything the pump worked fine. would points and plugs make a difference?
Sometimes if a pump and fuel line are dry or if it is a new pump, it will take a little continuous cranking to to get the fuel flowing again. I have never really timed how much cranking but I might guess 20 - 30 seconds max. Get the fuel flow working and then if necessary go through your ignition again. Make one change at a time and then test. That way you will know when you get it running what the problem really was.
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Tdog71
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 22, 2011 12:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Unplug a spark plug wire and lay it close to a bit of grounded bare chassis or body metal, have someone crank the engine and watch to see if it sparks. If so, you may have a fuel system problem. And as stated above, if the system is dry, rather than cranking and draining the battery to juice the fuel system, use starter fluid
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JRKman
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 22, 2011 12:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tdog71 wrote:
Unplug a spark plug wire and lay it close to a bit of grounded bare chassis or body metal, have someone crank the engine and watch to see if it sparks. If so, you may have a fuel system problem. And as stated above, if the system is dry, rather than cranking and draining the battery to juice the fuel system, use starter fluid




Make sure you dont have raw fuel anywhere near from when you tested the fuel pump haha that would be bad news
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Tdog71
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 22, 2011 12:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

JRKman wrote:
Tdog71 wrote:
Unplug a spark plug wire and lay it close to a bit of grounded bare chassis or body metal, have someone crank the engine and watch to see if it sparks. If so, you may have a fuel system problem. And as stated above, if the system is dry, rather than cranking and draining the battery to juice the fuel system, use starter fluid




Make sure you dont have raw fuel anywhere near from when you tested the fuel pump haha that would be bad news

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knuclebuster
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 22, 2011 12:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tdog. We tried what you said, and there was no spark. what does that mean?
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Tdog71
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 22, 2011 12:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

knuclebuster wrote:
Tdog. We tried what you said, and there was no spark. what does that mean?


now the problem looks like its at the coil. Make sure you have it wired correctly. With the key in the "on" position, check the positive + terminal on the coil. It should read around 12v. Note, the tachometer wires to the negative side on the coil too, if you have one. The green wire from the negative connector on the coil goes to the distributor:.

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knuclebuster
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 22, 2011 1:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

tdog. we have it all hooked up correctlyaccording to the diagram. tested it and had it set on dc volts, and the meter read right around 10 when cranked.
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Tdog71
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 22, 2011 1:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

knuclebuster wrote:
tdog. we have it all hooked up correctlyaccording to the diagram. tested it and had it set on dc volts, and the meter read right around 10 when cranked.


so, juice is flowing to the coil. Are all the wires, especially the fat black one from the coil that delivers the high voltage to the distributor (middle of your cap) connected tight ? check the 4 other wires from cap too. seated well ? pull another plug wire and check for a spark (not the one that you already tried)
also, you mentioned 10 "when cranked". You dont need to crank it to test the voltage. Just turn the key to on. Cranking it just sends juice to the solenoid and engages the starter
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knuclebuster
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 22, 2011 1:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

no sparks from any of them
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Tdog71
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 22, 2011 1:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

to test the main coil, pull the wire out of the center of the distributor with a rubber handled pair of pliers, and hold it about 1/4" from the metal clips that holds the distributor cap on.
Have someone crank over the engine.
There should be a nice blue spark that goes from the end of the wire you pulled out of the center of the cap to the metal clip.
It should look and sound strong, and should be easy to see, even in daylight.
If the spark looks thin and weak (yellow is weak, blue is strong), then the coil windings may be giving out. Use extreme caution, and make sure no fuel is spilled on the engine top or near the spark area.
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JerryMCarter1
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 22, 2011 5:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Or remove the wires -- mark them -- and test the coil, on the pos and neg, for ohms of resistance
You need 3.5

Jerry
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flyboat
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 22, 2011 6:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Make sure you did not knock off teh coil wires. If the ign wire is off or loose it won't fire. Check the point gap. Make sure it is making contact and separation
Make sure the rotor metal is touching the button in the center of the cap
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Tdog71
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 22, 2011 6:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

After reading the post again, it may also be your distributor as you said you rebuilt it. Confirm the coil is sending the high voltage and that the ohms reading is correct as JerryMcarter mentioned. Good coil, good fuel to carb, no spark from dizzy leaves only one thing left.....the distributor you rebuilt
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