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knuclebuster Samba Member
Joined: November 21, 2011 Posts: 29
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Posted: Tue Nov 22, 2011 11:21 am Post subject: 74 super beetle cranks but won't start |
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we replaced the alternator, plugs, wires, points, condensor, distributor cap, and battery. When we finished the car would turn over but now won't start. Right before we did al of this the car would start fine, but the battery would go dead. now, we get a flow of gas into the pump but nothing from the pump up into the carb. Help? |
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Tdog71 Samba Member
Joined: November 01, 2011 Posts: 453
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Posted: Tue Nov 22, 2011 11:31 am Post subject: Re: 74 super beetle cranks but won't start |
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knuclebuster wrote: |
we replaced the alternator, plugs, wires, points, condensor, distributor cap, and battery. When we finished the car would turn over but now won't start. Right before we did al of this the car would start fine, but the battery would go dead. now, we get a flow of gas into the pump but nothing from the pump up into the carb. Help? |
I think you just answered your own question. "now, we get a flow of gas into the pump but nothing from the pump up into the carb." check that line for clogging. If its not clogged, bad fuel pump |
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knuclebuster Samba Member
Joined: November 21, 2011 Posts: 29
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Posted: Tue Nov 22, 2011 11:48 am Post subject: |
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we disconnected the line from the pump and drained it. and them we used a suction bulb to suck gas from the pump out. before we replaced everything the pump worked fine. would points and plugs make a difference? |
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wayne1230cars Samba Member

Joined: April 05, 2010 Posts: 2691 Location: Canada
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Posted: Tue Nov 22, 2011 11:48 am Post subject: |
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Pull the fuel line from pump to carb. Turn the engine over with just a wrench on the pulley. Have a container to catch the gas. You should get a good spurt as you turn the engine over each time. If not, I think you have found your problem. Some of the new fuel pumps are not exactly noted for their quality or longevity. Alternator equipped cars require a specific fuel pump and rod as compared to a generator car. |
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knuclebuster Samba Member
Joined: November 21, 2011 Posts: 29
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Posted: Tue Nov 22, 2011 11:49 am Post subject: |
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we dind't change the fuel pump, its the original one thats been on the car |
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knuclebuster Samba Member
Joined: November 21, 2011 Posts: 29
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Posted: Tue Nov 22, 2011 11:58 am Post subject: |
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wayne, we just did what you said. some gas came out but there was a hissing sound. ? |
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phmical Samba Member

Joined: September 28, 2011 Posts: 109 Location: il
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Posted: Tue Nov 22, 2011 11:58 am Post subject: |
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spray some starter fluid down the carb ,.... maybe she just needs a good JOLT ,.... |
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wayne1230cars Samba Member

Joined: April 05, 2010 Posts: 2691 Location: Canada
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Posted: Tue Nov 22, 2011 11:59 am Post subject: |
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knuclebuster wrote: |
we disconnected the line from the pump and drained it. and them we used a suction bulb to suck gas from the pump out. before we replaced everything the pump worked fine. would points and plugs make a difference? |
Sometimes if a pump and fuel line are dry or if it is a new pump, it will take a little continuous cranking to to get the fuel flowing again. I have never really timed how much cranking but I might guess 20 - 30 seconds max. Get the fuel flow working and then if necessary go through your ignition again. Make one change at a time and then test. That way you will know when you get it running what the problem really was. |
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Tdog71 Samba Member
Joined: November 01, 2011 Posts: 453
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Posted: Tue Nov 22, 2011 12:04 pm Post subject: |
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Unplug a spark plug wire and lay it close to a bit of grounded bare chassis or body metal, have someone crank the engine and watch to see if it sparks. If so, you may have a fuel system problem. And as stated above, if the system is dry, rather than cranking and draining the battery to juice the fuel system, use starter fluid |
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JRKman Samba Member

Joined: June 21, 2011 Posts: 291 Location: Portland, OR
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Posted: Tue Nov 22, 2011 12:14 pm Post subject: |
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Tdog71 wrote: |
Unplug a spark plug wire and lay it close to a bit of grounded bare chassis or body metal, have someone crank the engine and watch to see if it sparks. If so, you may have a fuel system problem. And as stated above, if the system is dry, rather than cranking and draining the battery to juice the fuel system, use starter fluid |
Make sure you dont have raw fuel anywhere near from when you tested the fuel pump haha that would be bad news _________________ 1969 Type I
House paint red
1835cc single port:
Scat C25, ICT's, SVDA |
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Tdog71 Samba Member
Joined: November 01, 2011 Posts: 453
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Posted: Tue Nov 22, 2011 12:19 pm Post subject: |
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JRKman wrote: |
Tdog71 wrote: |
Unplug a spark plug wire and lay it close to a bit of grounded bare chassis or body metal, have someone crank the engine and watch to see if it sparks. If so, you may have a fuel system problem. And as stated above, if the system is dry, rather than cranking and draining the battery to juice the fuel system, use starter fluid |
Make sure you dont have raw fuel anywhere near from when you tested the fuel pump haha that would be bad news |
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knuclebuster Samba Member
Joined: November 21, 2011 Posts: 29
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Posted: Tue Nov 22, 2011 12:41 pm Post subject: |
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Tdog. We tried what you said, and there was no spark. what does that mean? |
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Tdog71 Samba Member
Joined: November 01, 2011 Posts: 453
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Posted: Tue Nov 22, 2011 12:48 pm Post subject: |
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knuclebuster wrote: |
Tdog. We tried what you said, and there was no spark. what does that mean? |
now the problem looks like its at the coil. Make sure you have it wired correctly. With the key in the "on" position, check the positive + terminal on the coil. It should read around 12v. Note, the tachometer wires to the negative side on the coil too, if you have one. The green wire from the negative connector on the coil goes to the distributor:.
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knuclebuster Samba Member
Joined: November 21, 2011 Posts: 29
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Posted: Tue Nov 22, 2011 1:02 pm Post subject: |
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tdog. we have it all hooked up correctlyaccording to the diagram. tested it and had it set on dc volts, and the meter read right around 10 when cranked. |
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Tdog71 Samba Member
Joined: November 01, 2011 Posts: 453
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Posted: Tue Nov 22, 2011 1:07 pm Post subject: |
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knuclebuster wrote: |
tdog. we have it all hooked up correctlyaccording to the diagram. tested it and had it set on dc volts, and the meter read right around 10 when cranked. |
so, juice is flowing to the coil. Are all the wires, especially the fat black one from the coil that delivers the high voltage to the distributor (middle of your cap) connected tight ? check the 4 other wires from cap too. seated well ? pull another plug wire and check for a spark (not the one that you already tried)
also, you mentioned 10 "when cranked". You dont need to crank it to test the voltage. Just turn the key to on. Cranking it just sends juice to the solenoid and engages the starter |
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knuclebuster Samba Member
Joined: November 21, 2011 Posts: 29
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Posted: Tue Nov 22, 2011 1:21 pm Post subject: |
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no sparks from any of them |
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Tdog71 Samba Member
Joined: November 01, 2011 Posts: 453
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Posted: Tue Nov 22, 2011 1:23 pm Post subject: |
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to test the main coil, pull the wire out of the center of the distributor with a rubber handled pair of pliers, and hold it about 1/4" from the metal clips that holds the distributor cap on.
Have someone crank over the engine.
There should be a nice blue spark that goes from the end of the wire you pulled out of the center of the cap to the metal clip.
It should look and sound strong, and should be easy to see, even in daylight.
If the spark looks thin and weak (yellow is weak, blue is strong), then the coil windings may be giving out. Use extreme caution, and make sure no fuel is spilled on the engine top or near the spark area. |
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JerryMCarter1 Samba Member

Joined: January 07, 2007 Posts: 6199 Location: N.W. Phoenix
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Posted: Tue Nov 22, 2011 5:10 pm Post subject: |
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Or remove the wires -- mark them -- and test the coil, on the pos and neg, for ohms of resistance
You need 3.5
Jerry _________________ Experience always triumphs over hearsay and You get to select which theory to believe |
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flyboat Samba Member
Joined: April 21, 2010 Posts: 2752 Location: Bath NC
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Posted: Tue Nov 22, 2011 6:12 pm Post subject: |
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Make sure you did not knock off teh coil wires. If the ign wire is off or loose it won't fire. Check the point gap. Make sure it is making contact and separation
Make sure the rotor metal is touching the button in the center of the cap _________________ 79 super Vert
62 Ragtop Bug
66 tintop Westy
Porsche 914
09 Z06 Vette track car |
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Tdog71 Samba Member
Joined: November 01, 2011 Posts: 453
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Posted: Tue Nov 22, 2011 6:17 pm Post subject: |
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After reading the post again, it may also be your distributor as you said you rebuilt it. Confirm the coil is sending the high voltage and that the ohms reading is correct as JerryMcarter mentioned. Good coil, good fuel to carb, no spark from dizzy leaves only one thing left.....the distributor you rebuilt |
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