Cb disc brakes not stopping well front and back

[jz56oval]

Hi all

Just installed my rear wide 5 CB Perfomance disc brakes and a new dual master cylinder. The front discs have been on my car for over 10 years now. I can't seem to get the brake to lock up when I hit the brakes hard.

There is a creaking sound when I push and release the brake pedal. Sounds like it at the brake master cylinder, it is brand new. Should this sound be happening?

After I did a test drive today the brakes dont seem to stop well. I can apply pressure on the pedal but they seem to keep rolling and not stop like they use to. Feels like new pads but the fronts should still do a good job like they did before the upgrade.

I did bleed all the air out of the system to where there was no bubbles left. I even went through each brake bleeding 5 times.

Could this issue be due to the brake pads not seated in the rear. The front pads are the original ones from 10 years ago.

I had a vision that they would stop way better then before and not worse.

I guess I could go through and spray brake cleaner on the discs to clean them.

Any other thoughts are welcome

Thanks

[nextgen]

IF the pedal feels fine, you did a good job bleeding.

Did you rough up the disks???? I would get a set of new pads, the are cheap.

Sand the rotors and do some break in stops. It may be they are not broken in yet, and degreasing the rotors is a good idea.
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Does your MC have the solid spacers that go between the 2 panels that the MC bolts pass through? If not, it may be flexing like crazy.
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[jz56oval]

Yeah the solid spacers were put back in during the reinstall.

The front brakes were working great before the added dual master cylinder and rear discs.

I degreased the rotors and will see tomorrow if it makes a difference.

I'm starting to think it might be a master cylinder issue. Not sure yet.

I did have to lengthen my push rod a bit to make it have the 10mm gap.

[vwinnovator]

are your rotors and pads glazed looking?

how far does your pedal go to the floor?

[jz56oval]

My front discs are shinny, not sure about the pads. The rear discs are showing a bit of rubbing but not shinny.

Don't I want shinny discs?

Pedal travels half way and stops before the firewall.

[mark tucker]

is it the right mc ???you sure the spacers are there??? is the rod adjusted right??? sure all air is out??? bleeders at top? hose's not looped up ward witch could trap air? have somebody apply the brakes while you are watcing the calipers one at a time and see if they flex any.this way or that. or twist. if they do you need to shim them straight. or have the brackets milled straight.(mine were horrifically out of wack,but it's a irs,4 bolt non cb but they were at the time the same ones from what Ive seen and been told, I dont know about wide five) so get under there and check. Any movement you see is using up the stroke before any breaking is being applied and thus.....your issue is what the result is. always do a eyeball operational check of breaks in the air before hitting the road. and you have to have a helper so you can look at it all. there should be about zero movement of the caliper when the brakes are applied. if you have the stamped brackets thats probably your issue. And need to be squared up.
they can be cocked or angled or both,not just a washer addition issue of misalignment. LOOK AT THE CALIPERS WHEN THE BREAKS ARE APPLIED!!!

[jz56oval]

I will definitely check all lines when someone pushes the brakes. I wode ring if the rear brakes are apply more then the fronts. Could this possible be do to the e brake cable to tight?

I got all my parts from CB so I'm sure the MC is correct and yes the solid space are in between the MC and pedal area

[jz56oval]

So a small drive with out the ebrake cables and it is still not stopping well. I'm gonna go back through the bleeding again to make sure.

The pedal gets firm but never seems solid when pushed. The pedal never sinks when pressed for a long period though.

Maybe there is air in the MC still.

[mcmscott]

What was your bleeding sequence?
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[jz56oval]

Farthest to closest. And repeated this 5 times to make sure I got all air out. Maybe the air is stuck in the MC?

[jsturtlebuggy]

Does the master cylinder set lower then the wheel cylinders? Has your car been lowered then stock ride height?
You may need residual check valves if so.
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[mark tucker]

the mc should have the residual pressure valve in it already. you can look in the book to identify if it does,I ferget what is diferrent to identyfy them visualy from the out side looking at them. but as I recall the bently and probably others show the diff. but it sounds like the calipers are out of aligine.

[mikedjames]

Think about slave cylinder diameters comparing drum and disc.

The discs will have larger diameter pistons than the drum brake pistons.

So you have to move more brake fluid to get the same pressure in the brake system as before.

Which means the pedal has to go down further for the same pressure and front brake effort.

Meanwhile the rear brake discs are probably only stopping on the high points on the brand new pads so they are not helping much.

The brakes should work better as they bed in but they will always feel different.
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[jz56oval]

[jz56oval]

[jz56oval]

[mcmscott]

You have to bleed the fronts first, also you have to dismount the caliper and rotate it upward so the bleeder valve is on the top when bleeding, both on the front and back, then remount after bleeding.
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[neil68]

Yes, as per the Bentley manual, the late dual-circuit MC brakes should be bled passenger-side front, driver-side front, passenger rear, driver rear.

You need to remove the stock residual pressure valves as they are for drum brakes.

I run 4-wheel discs with a late stock 19 mm dual-circuit MC without residual pressure valves. I have the MC still in the stock location under the hood.
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[jz56oval]