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superjet437 Samba Member
Joined: September 07, 2014 Posts: 96 Location: Washington State
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Posted: Thu Sep 11, 2014 6:47 am Post subject: Double Cab Frame Repair |
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Would anyone be able to point me in the right direction for a replacement section - Donor piece or availability of new? (this is the passenger side where frame meets torsion tube) The rest of the frame is solid, with the exception of one outrigger.
Links to other threads on frame repairs would be appreciated too.
Thanks very much.
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pondoras box Samba Member

Joined: March 22, 2004 Posts: 1573 Location: Eerie PA
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Posted: Thu Sep 11, 2014 9:53 am Post subject: |
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I had to do the same thing. I had a local steel company here in Erie Fab me a piece from some scrap they had laying around.
Look at adds here you can find this piece from time to time, but I just had mine made to avoid having to wait. I drew out the design to include the radius of the bend and also gave them a profile of the flanged area at the bottom of the frame and they made it for me, came out great and if my welding skills were a bit better you probably couldn't tell it was repaired.
I didn't replace the whole section just the affected areas.
before:
after: (actually during) they fabricated it in two pieces and I don't have any pics with it completed from the bottom of the torsion tube back. I will see if I can take more soon.
_________________ Looking for anything from Hal Casey Motors out of Hamburg New York, from license plate surrounds to matchbooks.
1961 23 Window (Bobo)
1965 11 Window (Zelda). https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=563183
1965 13 Window (Lucas)
1957 Oval ragtop
1960 hardtop
1964 hardtop
1965 hardtop
1988 Cabriolet VR6 conversion
Plus a lot of other rusty junk |
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1967250s Samba Member
Joined: May 02, 2007 Posts: 2137
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esde Samba Member

Joined: October 20, 2007 Posts: 6323 Location: central rust belt
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Posted: Thu Sep 11, 2014 10:47 am Post subject: |
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what, you mean a piece like this to do exactly this?
I am in the middle of a complete frame replacement, from the beam to the torsion housing, along with the entire cargo floor. I had the rails pressed from 11 gauge, though stock is 12. What the hell, why not beef it up a bit I figured.
Sorry that is a bit blurred, but you get the idea. A few pieces of advice:
Your wiring harness is in that channel, be careful cutting and welding. Also, the inside of the rail is boxed for about a foot forward of the torsion, you'll have to replace that too, though more than likely it's rotted also, and the reason it all held moisture in the first place. I did have a few extra 6' sections of frame made, in case I fucked one up, or someone else needed one down the line. PM me if you want.
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