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Ceramic Coat Your Exhaust at Home FAQ
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Westfabulous
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 9:08 pm    Post subject: Ceramic Coat Your Exhaust at Home FAQ Reply with quote

So, as part of my engine, transmission, etc, refresh, I also decided to refresh my exhaust system and try to put it back to original. The plan was to ceramic coat it for $500, but to make a long story short, the color selection in my area is extremely limited and nothing close to the original VW / Leistritz blue/ grey. I drove all around my area in Canada, and Washington State to see the offerings, and they were limited to say the least. The closest I could get was a dark gun metal gray with metallics, and that was not good enough.

I researched like crazy for alternatives....stove paint, high heat paints, etc, and I eventually came across VHT FlameProof Header Paint. Through my research I learned that a lot of the guys at the Porsche 356 Registry were using VHT paint for durability and to match the original VW / Leistritz color. Some of the testimonials showed that the paint lasted and was still looking good after 5 years, and had not burned off. VHT Flamethrower Paint is listed as durable in temperatures from 1300 to 2000* F.

I did a lot of reading on this paint and some information suggested that it is like ceramic coat in a can, and contains something like a pound of ceramic and silica in each can. With no real options, I decided to give it a whirl, and I bought the three shades of grey that were offered; I was in search of the closest I could get to the blue/ grey original color.

The substrate needs to be prepped, and then the product painted on. It then needs to be cured in an oven, or through a very specific process while on the car. I am going to cure mine on the car through the specified regimen. So, here is where I am at; please let me know your thoughts on the question that I ask at the very end, as I am looking for some feedback before bolting this on to the car.

Here is the system (most of it) sandblasted and ready for coating:

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This is what very close to or the same as what your Leistritz exhaust color was like when your car came from VW; this will help to put things in perspective. There appears to be variations in the shade of gray used:

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This was the first VHT grey that I used (104 - flat grey). It has blue in it, but I personally found it to be almost neon when the sun shone on it, and I couldn't quite imagine looking at the back of my bus and seeing a neon light blue cat, muffler, and tailpipe.

Cat:

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Crossover Pipe:

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So, I repainted everything in VHT 100 - primer grey, and here is what the final product looks like. It has less blue, and it is a more subdued grey:

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And, once again, the original Leistritz color:

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Based on the reading I have done with respect to VHT FlameProof paint, it seems to be a very decent poor mans ceramic coat, and it seems to last for a very long time, or possibly forever, without burning off if applied to a sandblasted surface. I am keeping my fingers crossed. Now, my question.....

Before I cure this paint:

Your preference on whether I should stay with the grey that I have now, or go back to the bluer version?

My goal has been to get close to the original color, and as far as I can see, neither is exact; so I opted for the one that was most pleasing to my eye.

Your thoughts please. I will post a longer term experience with this paint once I have cured it and driven the bus for a bit. Hopefully, somebody finds this info useful.

PS: If someone has one of these for a '79 bus that they want to sell (EGR), please PM me. Interesting thing, this is a NOS piece, and the gray is different from the Leistritz gray exhaust that was posted above:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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Last edited by Westfabulous on Thu Apr 19, 2012 8:50 pm; edited 5 times in total
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BUSBOSS
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 9:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice work.

I vote for the primer gray color.

Does it have the same durability and properties as the blue grey?
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 9:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks good in the second color, I think


No chance you can find an oven? What might cure the pipe to spec might not be good enough for the exchangers and heat shield...that won't see the same heat... Maybe your favorite powdercoater will let you cook it in their oven? Anyhow, looks good!
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Westfabulous
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 9:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

BUSBOSS wrote:
Does it have the same durability and properties as the blue grey?


Supposedly, but time will tell. The Porsche guys seem to think so.

rustbus wrote:
No chance you can find an oven? What might cure the pipe to spec might not be good enough for the exchangers and heat shield...that won't see the same heat... Maybe your favorite powdercoater will let you cook it in their oven? Anyhow, looks good!


I'm pretty sure it will be okay to cure it on the car. The process is intended to burn off some or most of the volatiles before taking it on a long drive. The manufacturer specifies the process. Once again, we'll see how it goes, but some of the vintage Porsche guys ignored the cure process and reported excellent results. There are a lot of unknowns here, and I am the test case. In the beginning I would never have considered this option, but after a lot of research, I am pretty hopeful of good results.
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 9:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does the time interval between when you paint it and when you cure it matter? For some reason I thought you had to put it all back on the car as soon as possible after painting in order to get the best curing results, but sounds like maybe that's not necessary?
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 10:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Couple comments FabulousWestyGuy-

Do a small sample of each and bake them in your oven per spec and see it the color changes after a proper cure.

As mentioned, once you decide and get them coated them do an oven cure as opposed to an installed cure. Surely you can locate someone locally with an ample size oven.

It's in aerosols? Do a can in each hand and blend the colors. Once you have a wet coat a misting of the other will flow right in.

Now I realize you want everything OG perfect. That's cool and it will be wonderful. But you realize that you will never show it at some venue that has the combined expertise to judge the finite accuracy of all of it. It's not like a vintage bug. In a public arena like Barrett-Jackson most people wouldn't even notice if it was coated green.

Not sure where you could locate the pictures of Colins flawless detailed exhaust. Except he painted the exhaust nuts bright red Laughing Just don't do something wierd like that.
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 10:04 pm    Post subject: Primer Gray Reply with quote

My Vote is also for the Primer Gray also.

And 2 or 3 hundred board ft. of what looks like Ash ? Poplar?
Obviously cabinet grade. Smile And some also looks to be Alder?
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 10:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hiwaycallin wrote:
Does the time interval between when you paint it and when you cure it matter? For some reason I thought you had to put it all back on the car as soon as possible after painting in order to get the best curing results, but sounds like maybe that's not necessary?


I wondered that too, but it doesn't matter. The ceramic and silica get activated when formally cured, and not from sitting in the ambient temps. You can cure at any time, but until then, it's just plain old paint with potential.
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 10:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Desertbusman wrote:
Couple comments FabulousWestyGuy-

Do a small sample of each and bake them in your oven per spec and see it the color changes after a proper cure.


That is a fine idea. I will do that tomorrow and report back. If the primer grey holds up, I wil probably go that route. I know I'm particular, but I don't actually care if the color is perfect. I'm just looking for opinions on which of the two imperfect colors is most popular in the real world. I spent so much time looking at these colors today, I lost all perspective.
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 10:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Westfabulous wrote:
Desertbusman wrote:
Couple comments FabulousWestyGuy-

Do a small sample of each and bake them in your oven per spec and see it the color changes after a proper cure.


That is a fine idea. I will do that tomorrow and report back. If the primer grey holds up, I wil probably go that route. I know I'm particular, but I don't actually care if the color is perfect. I'm just looking for opinions on which of the two imperfect colors is most popular in the real world. I spent so much time looking at these colors today, I lost all perspective.


I vote stay away from that blue tint. The VW grey was closer to a grey greenish. I used 2000* ceramic/silica whatever VHT paint and followed the on-car procedure. It is a pain in the neck and the exhaust system has such widely variable temperatures that I recommend the oven method. The outsides of the heat exchangers never get warm enough.
Colin
(p.s. NAPA sells metric nuts in red to distinguish from SAE sizes, thank-you)
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 10:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Amskeptic wrote:
Westfabulous wrote:
Desertbusman wrote:
Couple comments FabulousWestyGuy-

Do a small sample of each and bake them in your oven per spec and see it the color changes after a proper cure.


That is a fine idea. I will do that tomorrow and report back. If the primer grey holds up, I wil probably go that route. I know I'm particular, but I don't actually care if the color is perfect. I'm just looking for opinions on which of the two imperfect colors is most popular in the real world. I spent so much time looking at these colors today, I lost all perspective.


I vote stay away from that blue tint. The VW grey was closer to a grey greenish. I used 2000* ceramic/silica whatever VHT paint and followed the on-car procedure. It is a pain in the neck and the exhaust system has such widely variable temperatures that I recommend the oven method. The outsides of the heat exchangers never get warm enough.
Colin
(p.s. NAPA sells metric nuts in red to distinguish from SAE sizes, thank-you)


I remember your exhaust refresh Colin; you used silver. Can you please advise of how it held up?
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 10:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Westfabulous wrote:
Amskeptic wrote:
Westfabulous wrote:
Desertbusman wrote:
Couple comments FabulousWestyGuy-

Do a small sample of each and bake them in your oven per spec and see it the color changes after a proper cure.


That is a fine idea. I will do that tomorrow and report back. If the primer grey holds up, I wil probably go that route. I know I'm particular, but I don't actually care if the color is perfect. I'm just looking for opinions on which of the two imperfect colors is most popular in the real world. I spent so much time looking at these colors today, I lost all perspective.


I vote stay away from that blue tint. The VW grey was closer to a grey greenish. I used 2000* ceramic/silica whatever VHT paint and followed the on-car procedure. It is a pain in the neck and the exhaust system has such widely variable temperatures that I recommend the oven method. The outsides of the heat exchangers never get warm enough.
Colin
(p.s. NAPA sells metric nuts in red to distinguish from SAE sizes, thank-you)


I remember your exhaust refresh Colin; you used silver. Can you please advise of how it held up?


Hit the hurricane in San Antonio just a week after. The hurricane told me that sandblasting would have helped in the deep joint recesses because I got little rust stains coming out from between the pipe walls and the flanges. Next time, I sandblast and send to a pressure parts washer. Still looks mostly fine, but the flange edges are a bear. Those rectangular tight corners, paint just can't get a thick enough surface to fully prevent the microscopic pores from allowing water in. You may do better with sandblasting than I did with manual sanding. Once they get slightly pocked with rust, you have to prep thoroughly.

Here is one year and 20,000 hard miles. The paint is good on all broad surfaces, but these uninsulated u-tubes and flanges, nooooooo:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


So I whipped out the spare insulated u-tubes and prepped them:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


These guys are holding up good without a hurricane wash this time.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


( don't forget to wax the Konis and lemon pledge the CV boots)
Colin Razz
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 11, 2012 5:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Like the primer color myself. Although being a painter by trade I would never just leave primer as my top coat as it does not have the same properties as top coats.
I also am really digging how cool my engine is staying with ceramic chrome. Seems it keeps heat from radiating into engine compartment, ALot.
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 11, 2012 6:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used that VHT product on my muffler and intake manifold (T1) about 4 years ago. I didn't have a sandblaster at the time so I just cleaned/sanded/painted. New Dansk(?) muffler and old intake manifold.

The main sections of the intake manifold still look great, the heat risers are starting to rust a bit again and bleeding through.

The muffler is totally rusty. I cured the paint properly in an oven. So I hope you sandblasted!
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 11, 2012 6:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

curtis4085 wrote:
Although being a painter by trade I would never just leave primer as my top coat as it does not have the same properties as top coats.



X2!
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 11, 2012 7:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ccpalmer wrote:
The main sections of the intake manifold still look great, the heat risers are starting to rust a bit again and bleeding through.

The muffler is totally rusty. I cured the paint properly in an oven. So I hope you sandblasted!


I showed Pics above of everything sandblasted.

My question is whether you primed everything as specified by the manufacturer, or whether you just top coated. I could only assume that skipping this step could affect the outcome.
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 11, 2012 7:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ccpalmer wrote:
The muffler is totally rusty. I cured the paint properly in an oven.

Tell us about your driving and storage conditions please, Michigan is alot more humid than BC.
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 11, 2012 7:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The primer grey looks great! I have my original 2.0 motor on the floor of the garage in pieces as it went boom when I purchased my bus. Think I will start cleaning the exhaust pieces up, sandblast, and then slap on some VHT and find a nice shelf to put them on for the time being.
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 11, 2012 7:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ccpalmer wrote:
The muffler is totally rusty. I cured the paint properly in an oven. So I hope you sandblasted!

I learned the hard way about putting high temp exhaust paint on a new muffler. The paint that comes on them is real poor quality and is a terrible base for the new paint. Sandblasting new mufflers to get their paint off is the way to get good results with your new coating.
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 11, 2012 8:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I went with a gray VHT ceramic and after a few weeks hated it - looked too primerish. Then I used silver over the ceramic. Love it. Occasionally a touch of rust comes thru - mostly from sand blast off the wheels when on snow. Takes 5 minutes to touch it up and it is good again.

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vs

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