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Replacing the Gas Tank
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Bravhefen
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Joined: August 09, 2003
Posts: 135
Location: Las Vegas
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 15, 2003 4:40 pm    Post subject: Replacing the Gas Tank Reply with quote

Has anyone out there replaced or drained and repaired a gas tank?
Just wondering what is involved and how much I should look at cost wise.
I know my gas tank has a lot of setiment in it and it's causing problems in my fuel line.

Rob
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jeremysmithatshawdotca
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Joined: February 11, 2002
Posts: 2530
Location: Edmonton, AB
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 15, 2003 4:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check out Ratwell's website, he has a lot of pics on this:
http://homepage.mac.com/ratwell/78_Westy/PhotoAlbum10.html
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NeverHadaBeetle
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Joined: October 08, 2002
Posts: 442
Location: Missouri
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 15, 2003 5:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Draining the tank is simple. Especially if you have an engine fire and then it's a real piece of cake. Very Happy Unfortunately you probably need to remove it completely if you are having rust problems. This is more hassle and generally requires removal of the engine. I have seen tanks removed with the engine in place, but it is not a cake walk. I personally have always chosen to remove the engine first. Remove the engine, remove the screws holding the firewall (the two on the bottom are a PITA), remove screws from the straps, unhook fuel and vapor lines, remove the metal plate inside the filler neck on the outside of the bus, and wrestle it out from there. Once the tank is out you can have it cleaned at a radiator shop or use muriatic acid. Ratwell posts here often and has a web page that does an excellent job explaining how to clean the tank. After the tank is clean you can treat it with Por-15 from www.por-15.com and put it all back together. Rusted dirty tanks are common with any type of old vehicle regardless of the make or model. Good luck.
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Rich
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Joined: August 07, 2003
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 15, 2003 8:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ratwell, Thanks for sharing your efforts and experience on your site. Man, some of you guys look like geniuses to me!

I would add this to the discussion. If you happen to have a BN4 heater, you have to remove it and at least loosen the ductwork leading into the cab before the tank will come out.

What I did was plug the bottom of the tank by putting dowling in a piece of hose. I filled the tank about 1/2 to 2/3 with water. Then I added the muriatic acid, but I can't remember how much, maybe 2, 3 gallons. I think the gallons at any hardware store come in different concentrations.

I let it sit and smell and fume for about 8 hours. Read the lable on the acid about the hazards, etc. Then I ran water in it. I had opening to the gas filler hose above the tank so I didn't have to plug it. I ran the water through this hose. Then it got a little crazy. If you think it is rinsed out, put some baking soda in the tank. You'll find out from the fizz that it takes alot to neutralize that acid.

Once the fizzing stopped, I knew the acid was neutralized. I let it dry, and even though a little rust formed after the acid rinse, the tank sealing liquid took care of that. I bought a quart (expensive IMO), which was plenty. Just sloshed it around, making sure I didn't plug the vent holes and leaving the screws securing the sending unit screwed in. I had another car, so I was able to let it cure for a long time.

Lots of variations on this, good luck!
Rich
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