What vibration deadener is best?

[Bret Young]

So i have read through a few of the vibration deadener threads, but some of those posts are from 2006 and a good amount of those brands are no longer in business. So just wanted to ask what you guys are currently using.

Im getting ready to put Clara's panels in the front of my 64 Panel, and have 2 layers of the aluminum foil insulation to go underneath of the panels, but even if i tape it to the inner skin of the roof/nose, the metal is still really tinny and would like to quiet things down a little bit.

But my main concern is how do these prouducts do in high temperature areas? Where I am located, it gets up to 110 in the summers (will have week long stints of 105+ AKA death), and I can't imagine how hot the metal on the roof gets sitting there baking. Just dont want the adhesive coming apart and falling off.

Just wanted to throw this out there and see what brands you guys are using/if any of you guys are using those brands in high-temp locations. If so, how do they hold up?

[KevinAlbrecht]

Dynamat is the best, but there are similar products out there. Don't be talked into just using the roll out roofing tar based stuff @ Home Depot, it is not the same.

As far as adhesion, I used Dynamat above my engine compartment inside the passenger area, and it almost sticks too well.

For my ceilings, I was a little smarter about it after reading that you don't need to cover the entire surface with the stuff, and you should focus on just preventing the vibration resonating. This can be achieved (I found) by spacing the strips like 12" apart.

I don't recall the brand I picked before I installed Clara's panels, but it was one of the ones that were mentioned in the linked page "Sound Deadener showdown" or something. E-Dead? I'll see if I still have some of the stuff left over & can relay the product name.
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Kevin Albrecht
1963 Panel


Don't forget those seat-belts!
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[OG67westy]

I used Edead using the method above^^^and have had great results. As stated, you don't need to cover the entire panel to get the benefit. With a few patches of Edead on each panel, and new door seals, the doorslamming sounds like a new BMW rather than the tinny rattle from before!

[OG67westy]

oh, and it's been 102-104 here all week...

[Bret Young]

Where are you guys finding edead at? Its out to stock on amazon and after googling it, a bunch of places dont carry it anymore. They have a site that just has a bunch of related links so my guess is there site is kinda dead?

[KevinAlbrecht]

[dstefun]

[l96m]

I have been using a product called Hushmat. It works great. I put it on my beetle roof 3 yrs ago and nothing has peeled or fallen. After I did the car I could barely here the engine rpms. It really works great. I just wipe the metal down and the peel and stick. They do alot of auto manufactures and its made in the USA. Just my 2 cents...

[marklaken]

I've used second skin damplifier. I think it's a very good product. Unfortunately, it's price has been climbing to the point where I may not be able to afford it anymore - 80 SF is now almost $300.
_________________
Wish List:
1967 Wesfalia SO-42 Parts Needed: Kitchenette, Cot Poles

'65 rear left beetle fender

15" Bus Wheels in fair condition

Mark Laken
Fort Collins, CO

[Erik G]

I havent tried it yet, but look into SoundQubed Q mat. Apparently these guys build or built the subwoofer motors for all of the ultra highend competition subwoofers before the american companies all sold out to china. They make rediculous amps and subwoofers at great prices, and do not really sell to stores, they only sell to the enduser. I have a pair of their 12's and they are insane for the price.

anyway, they make their version of damping mat, supposed to be the thickest available, 100% buytyl rubber with aluminum backing. 4 times thicker than fatmat (which I have used). they have it on amazon and ebay, SoundQubed used to be AudioQue if you want to check out their competition stuff from the past.

[abritinthebay]

Best combo I can tell is this:

• Spray with Lizardskin Sound Control OR something similar (Second Skin Audio has Spectrum, which is not exactly the same... but similar).
  
• Cover with a vibration dampener. Second Skin Audio's Damplifier Pro is excellent but Dynamat is fine for this too. This is the step idiots just use roofing products (ie - tar) for. Q-Mat, etc.. all those products are just for this step.
  

Good? ok.. you're not done yet.

• Now add a decoupling layer. This should be some form of closed-cell foam. You can find this loads of places. Not too thick. 1/8 inch is ok.
  
• Now add Mass Loaded Vinyl. This is the single biggest step of sound proofing a car and its a step most people miss. Bonus: Second Skin Audio has a product that does both this and the last step (Luxury Liner Pro) but any other solution will also work. This won't stay on a roof - it is too heavy - so use some kind of sound dampening insulator there if you want more than just simple deadening.

Simply put: too many people only do one step on this list (the damping step) and it's the one with the most competing products - however a general rule is: if it comes in rolls then it's roofing shite repackaged. Avoid.

Second Skin is great for everything, Dynamat won't steer you wrong for dampeners, Q-Mat is great as well. I'm planning on doing all of my bus with Second Skin just because I like that I can get all of the steps from them AND they seem to have very high performance. They are not the only source however - shop around for similar products and compare yourself

(I intend to post dB numbers when I do my bus with this system - right now it's 87 db on the road at the drivers ears. Yeesh. Will be more in the rear seats...)

[Bret Young]

Eric, thanks for the suggestion - i will look into that brand.

Britinthebay - haha that was quite the write up. Good info there, but much more layers than I need. Im not trying to make it silent in my bus, just trying to eliminate the tin sound on the roof. Just gotta figure out a quality product that will not fall off to put under the two layers of the aluminum backed insulation that are going under my tar board interior panels. Trying to keep it simple. But thanks for the facts. Learned something new today.

[abritinthebay]

In that case I'd suggest Lizard Skin on the metal and Damplifier Pro on top of that.

Simple but effective

[Bret Young]

[abritinthebay]

Yeah, it's out of stock.

However it's 2.2mm which is the same approx thickness as Damplifier Pro from Second Skin (which is 2mm + the foil).

So... that's a good alternative if you want the same high quality stuff and the same thickness (4 times fatmat? Sheesh fatmat is thin...)

[DerrickfromNC1]

Check out this stuff! You can apply it with a roller.

http://www.alsliner.com/alsHNR

[abritinthebay]

Yeah, that stuff is basically a budget version of LizardSkin.

It's... alright. I mean... it's not going to be as good as a Damplifier or a Q-Mat just because it's not trying to be the same thing.

But if you're on a budget and don't want to spend on an air compressor rental for LizardSkin... it would do.

Worst case - it helps

It's more an insulator though (that's why it has the microspheres).

[RidinRusty]

I used Fatmat in my 56 and it has been great.
_________________
55 DD panel PBR
96 993 C4

[rebapuck]

Is FatMat and the like something I can put down in the floor channels before I lay a plywood floor? Would it help just in the channels?
_________________
Judy
1966 Camper "Hannah"
1967 SingleCab "Khady"

[MrPolak]