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Checking backlash - Camshaft backs out
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kkirwin
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 23, 2012 11:11 am    Post subject: Checking backlash - Camshaft backs out Reply with quote

Building an engine for my buddy's '70 bus, 1600 SP. I installed the camshaft and rotated the crank backward per the Wilson manual to check the backlash and it popped out of the bearings. It also seems the end opposite of the cam gear doesn't sit all the way into the bearing, I know for sure the crank bearings are seated on the dowels. I called the mechanic we got the parts from and he said that what it is doing is correct since it is a +1 cam. This contradicts the Wilson manual as he says that if the cam walks out of it's bearings during counter rotation of the crank the backlash is too tight. It doesn't clunk when you rock the cam gear back and forth against the crank gear however. Rotating it in the direction of rotation it seems fine. Who's right on this one and is it anything to worry about?
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 23, 2012 11:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi, Show the Mechanic Wilsons book. If it is too tight it will wear out the cam bearings and the cam gear. If you have the old cam see what number is on it. Next step smaller is a (0) there may be no number, which still is (0). Good Luck
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 23, 2012 12:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you are building an engine, you should have the tools to actually
measure the gear backlash. That's what counts. You don't say
how much pressure you're using to hold the cam shaft down in the
case, and it would appear the camshaft is not actually seated in the
case.
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 23, 2012 2:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

kreemoweet wrote:
If you are building an engine, you should have the tools to actually
measure the gear backlash. That's what counts. You don't say
how much pressure you're using to hold the cam shaft down in the
case, and it would appear the camshaft is not actually seated in the
case.



Correct. I can see where someone who does it all the time could do it by feel but the rest of us probably need to do it like this. I say most of us because I have a machinist friend who can tell you the thickness of a uniform object up to about 1/2 inch by feeling it. He is usually good within .0001 so someone who assembled VW engines all day could rock it and tell you .0012 etc.

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kkirwin
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 23, 2012 3:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, I wrote this right before I left for lunch. I went back out to the garage when I got back and looks like the mechanic sold us the wrong cam which is actually a -1 and not a +1 and the part number on the original is 113.109.111A and the new one is 113.109.019D, damn.

As far as checking backlash the Wilson book says, Quote "This is a difficult measurement to take, requiring a dial indicator, and most mechanics don't actually measure this clearance. Instead, they use two tests that experience has shown to be accurate (ie. rotating the crank backward to see if the cam walks out of the bearings and checking for clunking by rocking the cam and crank gear against each other)". Hmmm, I thought this was the best manual out there but now you are saying it is inaccurate makes me think I should trash it. Damn it again.
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 23, 2012 4:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The "best manual out there" is the Bentley service manual. I can see nothing difficult about the measurement in question,
it all looks perfectly straightforward to me.
Measuring gear backlash (and numerous other things) with a dial indicator and other precision measurement tools is
SOP for any kind of engine rebuild. When you're dealing with specs like .000-.002 inches (as in the present case),
any talk of a "clunk test" is ridiculous. It's true that VW engines are assembled by the thousands without benefit
of appropriate measuring tools, but those efforts can not really be termed "rebuilds", at least not with a straight face.
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 23, 2012 4:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
He is usually good within .0001


Within one ten thousandth of an inch? THAT is truly remarkable.
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 23, 2012 4:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wilson's book is great and the best one you can get. Also be refering to Bentley. If you are on your toes you will find a different error in both books. But not relating to the cam and gear mesh.

Well if the cam doesn't even sit down in the bearings why would you even expect the gears to match up? Either pull the gear off the cam or lift out the crank and get it out of the way. Try the bare cam in it's bearings and make sure it is seating properly. Don't even be concerned with the gear mesh until you get the cam and bearing issue straightened out.

There is nothing at all wrong with the Wilson method. If it walks out the engagement is too tight. If it is too loose precision fingers and feel can determine that. If what you said about what your mechanic said it's time to not listen to him.

Now evidently you are using an aftermarket performance cam with an aluminum bolt on gear since you had been talking about a different sized gear. Stock cams are rivited on and you're really not going to swap them.
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 28, 2012 6:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Desertbusman wrote:
Wilson's book is great and the best one you can get. Also be refering to Bentley. If you are on your toes you will find a different error in both books. But not relating to the cam and gear mesh.

Well if the cam doesn't even sit down in the bearings why would you even expect the gears to match up? Either pull the gear off the cam or lift out the crank and get it out of the way. Try the bare cam in it's bearings and make sure it is seating properly. Don't even be concerned with the gear mesh until you get the cam and bearing issue straightened out.

There is nothing at all wrong with the Wilson method. If it walks out the engagement is too tight. If it is too loose precision fingers and feel can determine that. If what you said about what your mechanic said it's time to not listen to him.

Now evidently you are using an aftermarket performance cam with an aluminum bolt on gear since you had been talking about a different sized gear. Stock cams are rivited on and you're really not going to swap them.



The cam must be stock because it is riveted on. I tried the old cam and it drops right in with no problem and sits just right in the bearings. I didn't remove the crank but I removed the cam bearings and they fit the new cam just fine, I can rotate them easily around the cam. Upon closer examination the teeth on the new cam gear look wider than the old one so I'm pretty sure that is the problem.

What does it mean when a cam is referred to as a -1, 0, or a +1?
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 28, 2012 6:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

teeth angle -1 is looser than +1. If the old cam is a +1 and the new one -1 then that isn't right. If +1 was perfect then -1 should have lots of play. Read them again.
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 28, 2012 7:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

SGKent wrote:
teeth angle -1 is looser than +1. If the old cam is a +1 and the new one -1 then that isn't right. If +1 was perfect then -1 should have lots of play. Read them again.



The old stock cam has no markings on it, the new one is clearly stamped -1 and says so on the box. I looked up stock cams on some websites and it is supposed to be "0" as Tcash stated. When we first called the mechanic he said it was a +1 cam, we called him back a second time and told him it was a -1 he said that was the cam he wanted us to have, we are really confused now.
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 28, 2012 7:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

First you need to get the crank out of the way and see if the cam rides in the bearings. The bearings fitting on the cam tell you very little.
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 28, 2012 7:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

on the back of the camgear there will be a small number stamped. That is what the gear is. If the gear has no stamp it is meaningless and whatever someone wished it to be to make the sale = Hey Joe - what number do I put on this box?
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 28, 2012 9:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My guess is that "standard " size cam gears did not have any size marking (i.e. no "0" )? Also, did not the different size cam gears have
different VW part No.'s on them?

Here's a quote from the 66-69 Beetle Bentley service manual:

"Check camshaft timing gear for backlash. If the camshaft and
crankshaft gears are to run quietly, play between them must be kept at the minimum. To check, rock the gears back and forth while
gradually turning the camshaft timing gear through a complete
revolution. If excessive play does exist, this check will reveal it."

Also:

"Camshafts with gears of various sizes are available as replacement parts to reduce backlash. The marking on a replacement gear (-1, +1, +2, etc.) tells in hundredths of a millimeter how much the pitch radius differs from the design size."
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 28, 2012 9:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is a good Tech article. Thank's gowesty.com
Cam Backlash: The Whole Story
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 28, 2012 10:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your old cam has a marking you just haven't found it. Look harder. It is probably a -3 or -4.
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 28, 2012 10:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What P/No and identification do you have on the backside of the gear?
Part numbers are cast and size identification is stamped since it is determined by the machining of the gear blank.

Of some I have laying around I believe one came out of a VW factory built replacement engine of '73 or later vintage. It's a VW 113.109.111A 18H casting identification. It has a -2 stamped into the inner side outer machined ring right under the teeth.
Same location of the small size stamping on a real old Brazilian gear.
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 29, 2012 7:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

SGKent wrote:
Your old cam has a marking you just haven't found it. Look harder. It is probably a -3 or -4.



Close, cleaned off the old cam and found the marking, -2.
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 29, 2012 7:58 pm    Post subject: Re: Checking backlash - Camshaft backs out Reply with quote

kkirwin wrote:
it is a +1 cam.


kkirwin wrote:
cleaned off the old cam and found the marking, -2.


Well there's your problem, sounds like another cam gear is in your future.
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 29, 2012 9:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

-1 tp -2 isn't much of a change. Get the dial indicator out on the -2 and see what the lash is in 3 or 4 spots. The walk backwards test isn't the best. you need a little lash so oil can get between the cam bearing and cam journal. The green book of an unspeakable name gives the lash specs.
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