Clutch engaging close to floor.

[Sir Sam]

So I have an old thread about this issue:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=446493

The short story is I had broken engine studs, and a completely messed up clutch. Springs everywhere etc. it's surprising anything worked.

Now I've come back around, the clutch works now. It's a little annoying to drive, but it works. The clutch engages close to the floor, closer than normal. I'd say about the first half of normal engagement travel just isn't there.

I have a new clutch, a new slave, and a new master. The system has been bleed properly. The cross shaft is in good shape, the lever arm is in good shape. The slave bracket is not broken and is properly bolted in. At this point I'm at a loss about what could be my issues.

The only thing I can think of is that there is something wrong in the clutch lever arm/ pedal assembly that would cause this. Does anyone have some advice for where to look on what might cause this?

It's pretty noticeable when I switch from driving my syncro to my weekender. The weekender feels right, the syncro does not.
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'91 Carat Westy

87' Syncro + '87 Westy conversion coming soon

[Gnarlodious]

I had a breakdown where the plastic inlet nipple on the back of the master cylinder cracked. Fluid slowly drained down under my driver's floor mat, which ruined it totally beyond salvage. This was especially unfortunate as it was in perfect condition, and I will never find such a good replacement mat.

I had to scrounge a used nipple, which pops into a rubber grommet with brute force. I put on a new more flexible vinyl tube, as the original rubber/woven tube had gotten way too rigid which caused the problem. These repairs are difficult as you need to work behind the master cylinder in a messy spillage condition.

I recommend this hose replacement preventatively for all Vanagons.

Also, its possible your clevis is worn out, although this would happen over a long period. GoWesty has a replacement kit.
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Vanagon ’83 diesel AAZ w/Giles injection, 5spd 4.57R&P+TBD and a '78 diesel Rabbit

[windnsea]

When you bled the clutch master cyl, did you notice that the outlet line is below the feed from the reservoir on the brake master cylinder?

Try doing a reverse bleed of the master cylinder. This may sound funny, but it works:

remove instrument housing cover and cover to the brake fluid reservoir. Jack-up and remove left rear wheel. Get a piece of clear plastic hose that will just fit over the bleed screws of the left rear brake hydraulic cylinder and the outlet for the clutch slave cylinder. Have a friend slowly pump the air out of the plastic line while just loosening the brake bleed screw. Affix the now full of fluid to the clutch slave cylinder bleed and open it just a little.

Now, slowly pump the brakes with the conventional down/up method while also doing the open/close with the brake hydraulic cylinder. This will displace the air in the clutch m-cyl and you'll have a fluid system with no air in the system.

If this does not work, the only other question that I would have is did your replacement clutch slave cylinder have the same length of actuator rod that that you replaced; some don't!

Good luck, get 'er back on the road.

[syncrodoka]

What is the clutch free pedal play? That will help you figure out if the clutch pedal arm is worn and clevis pin needs to be replaced.

[Sir Sam]

[sanchius]

Here's a quick fix until you can get the clevis pin hole fixed...

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=458289&highlight=clutch
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[syncrodoka]

This is what happens when you put off the repair too long. A picture that I dug out of the gallery.

It really is best to fix it correctly before it fails on the road somewhere. If you have access to a welder it isn't a big deal. VC and GW sell a replacement clevis pin since they are always worn in addition to the clutch arm.
When they are rebuilt and adjusted correctly there is an entirely different clutch action.

[Sir Sam]