Modern fuse box conversion.

[Jon65]

I have heard it mentioned before that it is possible that a modern-like fuse box can be installed on a bug.

So a few questions:

1. In your opinion, is installing a modern fuse box in a bug more reliable then the standard fuse box.

2. Has anybody on here done this before, and if so did you notice a difference in reliabilty/fuse life? And overall are you happy with the setup?

3. Is there a box that you can buy that will fit into the stock location next to the steering wheel.

I am happy with the standard fuse box system, I was just wondering if this "modern setup" could be more reliable than the usual metal strip fusebox because this car will be my daily driver.

Thanks for any suggestions,
jon65

[Jon65]

Or if there's already a topic on this, please point me to it.

Thanks.

[79SuperVert]

I can't speak to a modern fuse box conversion but I can tell you that after replacing ground straps and relentlessly cleaning contacts everywhere I could and seeing only marginal improvement, the single most effective electrical change I made to my 6volt stock 62 Beetle was to replace the old fuse box with an almost NOS one. It made a world of difference to turn signal and horn operation. The condition of the contacts in the fuse box are vital to good electrical function.
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[Jon65]

Interesting. I have heard of NOS fuseboxes before but didn't know they made that much of a difference.

Are they common on the classifieds here?

[EverettB]

You can also buy new ones, example:
http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=111937037

I am considering doing this for one of my cars as a couple of the fuses get hot and I already cleaned up everything else and rebuilt the headlight switch and am still getting some voltage loss.

Or I may remove the entire fuse box and clean and solder every connection... this is what I did for the headlight switch.

I would never put in some modern fuse block, that makes me puke a little in my mouth just thinking about it.
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[dungbeetle07]

I'm sure this is a stupid ? but what is a NOS fuse box
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[Jon65]

[Keith]

[Jon65]

[61SNRF]

Stock VW fuse boxes are a mass produced part for an economy car. The brass terminal connections that make them up are two pieces that are just pressed tightly together, and they will oxidize and develop excess resistance between those parts just by being exposed to the atmosphere. After so many years they just develop poor conductivity. You can improve them by some cleaning/soldering, but replacing them is a good idea if they become too degraded to repair or clean. Even an NOS one may have some oxidation/degradation depending on where/how it was stored ( it's called "shelf wear"). A new one from a reputable vendor (ie WW) should be better in that respect, in theory anyway.

My answers your questions...
1: The modern style has a few advantages over the original, but nothing major. They are still made up of brass terminals with mechanical connections and are prone to oxidation too.
The new style blade fuses may be easier to find nowadays, but you can still find the early/ceramic fuses in better parts stores.
The new style fuses are easier to install, but with some practice/patience the early style is not that much harder.
The real advantage to the modern style is if you plan to add additional high amp draw accessories or circuits and need more fuses. For example if you plan on adding a high power amp, fog/driving lights, or HID lights etc then you might want to consider one.
2: No, never.
3: Don't know, never seen one, don't think so.

I can also add that the wrong bulb in your dome light should not cause the fuse to blow. In the worst case it might draw ~2 amps. Fuses blow when their amperage rating is exceeded, i.e. it takes over 8 amps current to blow an 8 amp fuse. In your case, it is more likely a short in the cigarette lighter (very common), or a short in the wiring of either circuit. (A short is when a powered wire is connected directly to ground, as in it's insulation is pinched, cut or rubbed through). Shorts can happen in the dome light if it's installed or connected improperly, so have a good look at that too.
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[drscope]

Its been a while but I seem to remember many years ago on my 63 the headliner material that wrapped around inside the dome light hole had worn through from the dome light being put in and taken out.

That allowed part of the hot contacts to short to the body and would keep blowing the fuse.

A simple small piece of electrical tape and the problem was solved.

You may also want to check around up there in the dome light hole to make sure there isn't anything metallic laying in there, or the ends of a head liner rib making contact with the light. A lot can be "not right" after 40 or so years.

And here's a neat little tip for chasing those blown fuse issues. Go to your local electronics store and pick up a couple small circuit breakers used in electronic devices. They come in various amperages, so make sure you get a couple different ratings.

Then you can use a couple short lengths of wire and alligator clips connected to them. Take out the fuse that keeps popping and clip in the circuit breaker for the correct rating in that slot.

Now as you search for the short, you won't have to replace the blown fuse every time you miss - just reset the circuit breaker.

You know if you have 10 spare fuses it's going to take at least 11 tries to find the short!
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[smitty24]

I agree with what Everett and 79Super stated above= the new replacements from WW are perfect. Covers help keep moisture/dirt out. If you have issues, it is most likely elsewhere. Most issues can either be found with clean contacts, poor grounding, or incorrect PO wiring altogether.

I looked into the new spade type fuses and replacement universal boxes. It wasnt worth the trouble since none of my issues are ever related to the box.

[62Baido]

My current bug has modern fuses but quite honestly if I could find time to swap it back to OG I would.... Here's what I got. It was a huge cluster fü¢k when I got the car and took me a couple weeks to sort it so it matches the stock wiring diagram. If you already have a stock unit just keep it.

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[crvc]

http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=136156

8 minutes into this video they replace the old box and fuses with new and improved.

crvc

[VOLKSWAGNUT]

and.....I'd be one to upgrade to a quality modern fuse block in a heart beat.
You have better terminal contact in a spade terminal fuse, that means less problems for oxidation, and voltage drop.

Of course.. simply cleaning and soldering a good VW fuse blocks, works quite nicely to reduce voltage drop...

A little tip even for the antiquated Bosch fuse, other terminals and connections, once you get the contacts clean, use a light coating of di-electric grease to help reduce oxidation. There are better lubricants, but its the most economic, and readily available at most parts houses.
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[Jon65]

Ok. Thanks for the advice guys. I think what I'll do is use your tips and find out where the short could be, then I'll replace my fusebox that I have now with the WW brand box. That sound about right?

I agree with what you guys say about a modern fusebox being not being a good idea. I'm perfectly fine with the standard box, I was just wondering if the modern box offered anything more.

Thanks for all of your help.
jon65

[EverettB]

[Mitey62]

I installed a standard buss fuse panel, and IMHO it's MUCH nicer than stock. I don't have to special order fuses if I need one... they're available EVERYWHERE. You get better contact than the old plastic euro fuses. It's less likely something metallic will make contact with the fuse and cause a short.

Technology has progressed a lot in the last 60 years. Original is cool, but there's a reason they don't use those anymore.

[79SuperVert]

I picked up the old style fuses at my local Auto Zone. No problem finding them.
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Wanted: Art Collins VW (Savannah, Georgia) items - license plate surrounds and other items. Also ivory "AM", "FM" and "SW" buttons for a US Blaupunkt Frankfurt.