TYPE 3 1600cc after rebuild to much compression?

[exoo]

Hello Guy's
My name is Niels and owner of a type 3 notchback 1971 freshly repainted in her original color diamant-zweischicht marathonblau L96m, love it!

Because of her age and unknow past i decided to overhaul the engine. Engine was running before i took it apart. Crankshaft, big end(pistonrod) bearings incuding campshaft and followes have been changed by original standaard ones. Also the piston rings are renewed. After i have fitted back the cilinderliners and heads i noticed that the cilinders are building up quit some compression. Not able yet to test the pressure because tool is on order.
My crankmotor (startmotor) isn't rotating that fast without ignitionsparks on, with them installed he get stuck because of compression. During my build up i continuosly checked the free play of crankshaft. With a rachet iam able to turn the motor freely and with sparkssplugs inside is can push true the compression. The crank turns with a wrench not hard but to hard to turn by hand.
Without any sparkplug

Link

With 4 sparplugs fitted inside.

Link

[Danwvw]

Yes that looks about right! All you can do really to know the compression is to measure it when it's apart! CC the heads, Measure the Deck run the numbers through a engine calculator.
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[67rustavenger]

X2 Looks right to me as well.
Can you start the engine out of the car?
If not install it and get it running.

I love Notch Backs. I wish I could afford one.

Good Luck.
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[ach60]

You built it, so what are these numbers?
Deck height =______
CC of heads (Combustion Camber Volume) =_____
Bore=______
Stroke=_____
Do you have a photo of the Combustion Camber side of the heads?
That would be helpful to know if you still have the step in the heads.
With all of this information you should have calculated the compression ratio of the engine.
http://cbperformance.com/v/enginecalc.html
That way at least we would know that you didn't build a completely stock engine,
but ended up with some crazy high compression because of a machining/assembly error.
My guess is the compression ratio is fine, but the motor is tight.
Your starter is weak, or battery doesn't have enough juice to spin the motor.
Sometimes with tight motors we had to pull start them with another car, once the engine is installed in the car.
_________________
Good Luck
Al

[exoo]

I did not measure the cc of the cilinderheads. I thought that wouldn't be necessary because nothing was machined only cleaned and new piston rings installed.
Axial clearance of crankshaft is 0.12mm and camshaft 0.05mm. When both halves were fitted back, the crankshaft was rotating freely and the resistance came when pistons with new rings were installed.
Here foto of cilinders with cleaned pistons.

cilinderhead cleaned.

The combustion chamber where the cilinderhead meets the cilinderliner is flat. When i took it apart there was no filling ring, so i installed it back without.

[Dale M.]

I think you are showing anxiety over nothing, its going to be really hard to get excess compression with stock replacement pistons and cylinders and reusing "cleaned up heads"... Yes there will be noticeable difference how a old tired engine turns over under compression and a fresh assembled with new parts, that is the point of actually rebuild... As long as there is no binding as engine turns over with sparkplugs out there should not be a issue when you start it...

Dale
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============================================================
All suggestions and advice are purely my own opinion. You are free to ignore them if you wish ...

[Cusser]

[exoo]

First i would like to thank you guys for the advises. Very helpfull.
Today i took a new view against my problem. First i rewired the starter with bigger mm2 and also recharged the battery and guess what, turning good with sparks plugs inside.
Engine started and ignition timing had to be adjusted. 7.5 degree before TDC. Engine have runned for about 2 hours without any problem. Now it can be mounted back inside the car.