Hurst shifter...Shifting problem?

[Luftcooler]

Just put in a Hurst shifter,it real not empi.
Anyway..It shifts firm,but from first to second gear.It will let you hit Reverse.Even without pulling the trigger.

From second to third I have to pull the trigger to hit third.coming back on down shift works fine,the trigger clicks down from third to second.
But there again if you go to far over you could hit reverse without pulling the trigger.

I didn't use the reverse plate from the stock unit.....Should I have? two or three post here said not to..

Have I miss aligned the shifter during the install? What say you? Thank's Luftcooler....

[Kelley]

You can adjust the shifter, just loosen the bolts without taking them out. Slide the shifter's base towards the left and back, tighten the bolts and try the shift pattern. If it's still an issue, re-adjust in a different direction and try it again.

Did your Hurst have the base mounting plate on it?

this is a pic of one missing the base plate. You can see the spot welds where it used to be.
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74 rusto-custom type 1 Sedan - SOLD
ZRX1100c3, Mean Green - SOLD

Growler wrote:

I hate people. Are you people? I hate you.

Just trying to remember classic Samba quotes from the 'Days of Yore'

[jkyes]

[Luftcooler]

yeah it's got it..I'm trying to move the shifter around right now back,forward side to side...Do I need to remove the plate??

[Kelley]

[Kelley]

I'll see if I can post up a pic of the Hurst trigger shifter mounting instructions. Hopefully, that will help also.
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74 rusto-custom type 1 Sedan - SOLD
ZRX1100c3, Mean Green - SOLD

Growler wrote:

I hate people. Are you people? I hate you.

Just trying to remember classic Samba quotes from the 'Days of Yore'

[John M.]

Sounds like an adjustment issue to me. Adjust the shifter plate forwards backwards, etc; until the problem goes away.
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Current: 1972 Beetle - 96V EV
Previous:
1966 Beetle - Sea Blue - 1300SP
1966 Beetle - Sea Blue - 1600SP
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[Kelley]

_________________
74 rusto-custom type 1 Sedan - SOLD
ZRX1100c3, Mean Green - SOLD

Growler wrote:

I hate people. Are you people? I hate you.

Just trying to remember classic Samba quotes from the 'Days of Yore'

[Kelley]

_________________
74 rusto-custom type 1 Sedan - SOLD
ZRX1100c3, Mean Green - SOLD

Growler wrote:

I hate people. Are you people? I hate you.

Just trying to remember classic Samba quotes from the 'Days of Yore'

[Kelley]

_________________
74 rusto-custom type 1 Sedan - SOLD
ZRX1100c3, Mean Green - SOLD

Growler wrote:

I hate people. Are you people? I hate you.

Just trying to remember classic Samba quotes from the 'Days of Yore'

[Kelley]

I'll have to scan it later, it looks like the print in the instructions might be too small. Unless you're good at resizing.
_________________
74 rusto-custom type 1 Sedan - SOLD
ZRX1100c3, Mean Green - SOLD

Growler wrote:

I hate people. Are you people? I hate you.

Just trying to remember classic Samba quotes from the 'Days of Yore'

[Luftcooler]

MANY THANK"S to All and thank's for the instructions Kelwa!
I'll start work on her again tommorrow

Yeah I tryed to resize with Corel and it went fuzzy....Thank you for scanning that puppy!!!

[jkyes]

[Luftcooler]

One thing I did do that may help yours.Is that I took the small (W) looking spring out from under the trigger bar and Slightly bent the spring upwards.Put it back in.This caused the more tension on the bar and improved the lockup of the trigger.

However...like yours I tried the same thing and moved it all over the place still the same......

[RennyRB]

I heard from the typical 'some guy' around here and was wondering - can i run my hurst without the W spring and bar it tenses?

My spring broke and dont feel like buying an empi just to get the spring... I'll wait for the next swap and hope to find a junker empi shifter i can get the part from.

So yeah, usable without w spring and bar, or no?

[Luftcooler]

That last picture of Kelwas in Fig2.Shows a plate under the shifter housing.It isn't the other plate that was shown eariler...Wonder if that is the stock reverse plate??

[RennyRB]

You dont use stock reverse plates for Hurst shifters. The Empi ones come with a blank plate, similar to the bottom cover but thinner, and no ramp like the stock plate. Dunno what it does, and mine worked without it, but might as well have one to be complete. I picked mine off the floor of a vw store, and another came with a junk shifter I bought.

Don't use the stock plate with your hurst.

[Kelley]

That's an extra spacer plate. For "extra adjustment" according to Hurst. Not a "VW" part. It'll be a few days before I can scan the instructions, as I cant find my scanner. I'll go ahead and type them here -

#1 Move the stock shifter to neutral. Slide the stock boot up on the stick. Remove the two bolts that fasten the stock shifter to the floor. Rubber mats do not have to be removed - cut slits to length described in illustration. (Fig. 1).

#2 Lift the shifter out of the floor tunnel. Remove all the partsthat are assembled with the stock shifter - (plate, spring and retainer).

#3 The underside of the Hurst shifter must be mounted to the tunnel metal directly. Be sure that the mounting area is free of all insulation material. The opening in the floor mat may have to be cut at the corners to allow it to fit over the hurst shifter without "bulging."

#4 Lubricate the socket of the shifting torque tube with grease. Place spacer on the floor over the opening. Guide the ball of the shifterinto the socket. Fasten shifter to floor with the stock bolts and washers. See fig. 2, page 4.

IMPORTANT - Hold the housing so that the bolts are centered in length of elongated slots. Force the unit toward the left (driver's side) while you tighten the mounting bolts.

#5 TEST SHIFTER - This shifter is designed to protect the transmission from shock that results from fast shifting. The fore and aft location of the shifter on the floor must be adjusted so that it does not restrict full travel of stick into 1st and 3rd, or 2nd and 4th gears during normal shifting. When the adjustment is correct, the OVER-TRAVEL of the stick during fast-hard shifts will be limited by positive stops.Adjustment is made by loosening the mounting bolts and moving the shifter foward or rearward as required.
GEAR IDENTIFICATION MUST BE ESTABLISHED WITH ENGINE RUNNING BY ENGAGING EACH GEAR THEN GENTLY RELEASING THE CLUTCH. APPLY NORMAL POWER TO MOVE THE CAR AND IDENTIFY THE GEAR.
CAUTION - PERFORM TESTING ON OPEN, LEVEL AREA THAT IS ISOLATED FROM TRAFFIC AND CHILDREN.

PULL TRIGGER AND HOLD IT UP - Shift from 1st to reverse. Apply power. shift back from reverse to 1st - pushing stick firmly toward the right. You should not be able to engage 3rd or 4th gear when trigger is held up.

RELEASE TRIGGER - You should not be able to engage reverse when trigger is released. Attempt to shift to reverse with trigger down (released). Repeat this several times to be sure that you cannot engage reverse.
If preceding testing proved satisfactory, finish installation as described in paragraph 7. If testing proved that 3rd and 4th gear could be engaged with the trigger UP or that REVERSE could be engaged with trigger DOWN, adjust shifter mounting as directed by paragraph 7.

(continued in next post)
_________________
74 rusto-custom type 1 Sedan - SOLD
ZRX1100c3, Mean Green - SOLD

Growler wrote:

I hate people. Are you people? I hate you.

Just trying to remember classic Samba quotes from the 'Days of Yore'

[Kelley]

6 a - Loosen the mounting bolts enough to permit moving the shifter all the way to the Right. Tighten bolts and re-test shifter.

b - If moving the shifter to the right did not correct the shifting pattern, the forward support bushing in the car is worn excessively. The spacer that is placed under the shifter was provided to compensate for this possibility. Remove this spacer and re-install the shifter as directed by paragraph 4. "IMPORTANT" Repeat testing procedure.

( this leads me to believe that folks have mistaken the "base plate" for the "spacer plate" as evidenced by me seeing many, many Hurst trigger shifters, curved AND straight, minus the "base plate", not just by faulty spot welds, but actively removed by previous hurst owners or VW "shops", to avoid having to replace the shift bushing in the tunnel.)

c - If removal of the spacer does not correct the shifteing pattern, the forward support bushing inside the floor tunnel will have to be replaced. After a new support bushing has been installed, return to paragraph 4 and repeat installation and testing.
*The forward support bushing is a plastic bushing available from Volkswagen dealers (VW part # 111 701 259a). This bushing is located inside the floor tunnel and is accesible through the shifter opening. (shifting torque tube must be removed to free plastic bushing.)

7 - Replace mat (if removed). Slide the plastic housing (leave the rubber boot above) down over shifter housing until the lower edge of the housing touches the floor mat. Slide the rubber boot down into the plastic housing. Squeeze the boot and press it into the opening. Adjust the bellows of the boot to it's "natural" shape.


There you go, the entire mouting instructions as written by Hurst for the Saf-T-Trigger Shifter for Volkswagen.

Once again, I'll try to scan these instructions an put them in my gallery for the future.
_________________
74 rusto-custom type 1 Sedan - SOLD
ZRX1100c3, Mean Green - SOLD

Growler wrote:

I hate people. Are you people? I hate you.

Just trying to remember classic Samba quotes from the 'Days of Yore'

[Kelley]