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Bostig engine install method question
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syncrodan
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 19, 2013 8:08 pm    Post subject: Bostig engine install method question Reply with quote

Ok, it looks like the only way to go is to install the engine and gearbox already mated together. I'll be doing this on a lift, how have you done it?

It seems to me that I should position the pair under the van, lower the van down, move the engine hoist in and hook it up, then maybe lift the nose of the gearbox and set it on a jack stand to level it off. with the hoist holding the engine and a stand supporting the trans, I could slowly lower the van to a good height and then bolt it up. This is my idea, but maybe someone has a better way? Wish I still worked at the VW dealer, we had these Beissbarth tables for just such occasions, man those were sweet.
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chojinchef
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 19, 2013 8:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you are doing it on the ground: Just as you said. Mate the trans and engine together, slide under the van (I used a bread rack). Lower van over assembly. Use jack to lift up trans mount and secure. I then used jack and wooden blocks to raise up engine a aside at a time, to get to proper height and insert fasteners to secure the bar to the chassis.

Attach periphery goodies.

Enjoy the hell out of it.

The hoist method works too. There are two hooks on top of engine that will work just fine. Maybe better, as they allow for movement to get the bolts in the holes. Just remember to spin them around when done, or they tear into your hatch insulation.

I lost my hoist in the move. I think my ex sold it to me ex neighbor.

How far from Atlanta are you.
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Last edited by chojinchef on Tue Feb 19, 2013 8:19 pm; edited 1 time in total
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insyncro
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 19, 2013 8:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use a 1 ton transmission jack to install mated drivelines.
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Borlandrs
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 19, 2013 9:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I mated the transmission and slid it under the van on cardboard. I didn't lower the van but used a floor jack and blocks to lift the end of the transmission up to connect those mount. While doing this, I used additional blocks under the sides of the cradle to stabilize it laterally, because as you lift the trans, the other end gets balanced on the oil pan rather than the cradle. I think I also attached the hoist and used that to help keep it from rolling too. Then it was easy to lift it into place with the hoist, which allowed sway to get the cradle bolts aligned and installed. Good luck!
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syncrodan
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 19, 2013 9:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm in Augusta Ga, right off I20
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solarguy
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 19, 2013 11:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used a hoist for the motor and a jack for the Trans that way I could take it up level.
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Reck
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 07, 2015 8:32 pm    Post subject: Bostig install clearance needed? Reply with quote

I'm hoping this thread isn't completely dead.

I've just dropped the engine and transmission and slid the assembly out from under my vanagon. Will be receiving the Bostig kit soon, but first needed to send the trans out for overhaul. I'm working in my driveway, with somewhat uneven ground. Getting the car high enough on the jack stands was difficult. The clearance to slide the engine/trans out (while sitting on the legs of my hoist, like in the Bostig removal video) was marginal. I'm thinking the Zetec sits rather higher, and that I might be in trouble.

I realize that I will be somehow sliding the engine/trans assembly under the car without the help (and added height) of the wheels and legs of the hoist, but I'd like to know what clearance I will need to plan for. Does anyone have a measurement from the HCOP bottom to the top of the cam covers?

Alternatively, does anyone drop the engine down from above and then bolt it to the trans?

Much appreciated,

Eric
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61Scout
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 07, 2015 10:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Eric (Reck), reading about "uneven ground" and "jack stands" immediately conjures up an image of a dangerous situation. I don't know you or your experience level and I mean no disrespect, but wanting you to be safe... jack stands are made to be on cement, period. If you use them on any other surface, be aware that jack stands will definitely sink into gravel and hot asphalt. I work in a tiny garage and often have projects outside, and on jack stands, but I've also welded a 1/8" steel plate across the entire bottom on all my stands. And probably needless to say, but chock the front wheels on both sides, and if you can slip a large piece of lumber under the rear tires as an additional safety.

In regards to your question, here's how I approached my project (though not a bostig)... I put the assembly on a cart and measured from the floor to the top of the engine. Add one or two inches and raised the rear end of the vehicle accordingly, measuring from the lip (under the windows). Then I slid the assembly underneath and raised the lump using a come-along hooked to a steel frame I built that straddled over top of the deck. That way I could control the pitch/angle and easily raise/lower the lump and have room to work underneath without anything in the way.

-Kevin
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indytriple
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 08, 2015 4:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just jacked the rear end of the van up pretty high using jack stands, and a friend and I slid the transmission/engine under the van on a piece of large cardboard. I used a normal jack under the transmission end first, attached that end and then moved the jack around to the back and jacked the engine up. No engine hoist. No trouble. About all you need for this method is smooth concrete, a friend and some cardboard.
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JudoJeff
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 08, 2015 4:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

sycrodan,
It's easier than you think right now. I use wooden blocks under the vehicle to raise it up. Mated the engine and transmission, slid it under van on cardboard, pushing with my legs. Hooked up the engine hoist. Used a floor jack on the transmission end, and slowly raised everything up. Connected transmission bolts, then four of the cradle bolts. Did this all by myself, no problem, except then I was sick with the flu for the next seven days.......
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jobenaus
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 08, 2015 10:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Reck (Eric) I remember tilting the zetec a bit so you don't have to lift the body any higher to get enough clearance and slide it under on cardboard.

Last edited by jobenaus on Mon Jun 08, 2015 2:45 pm; edited 1 time in total
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alnvilma
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 08, 2015 1:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Like others: pushed it with my legs, on cardboard.
I used wheel ramps and the height was perfect in conjunction with a hoist and floor jack.
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Reck
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 08, 2015 11:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the replies. It sounds like the added height of the Zetec isn't creating undue headaches for anyone. My hoist legs added 7 - 8" of height to the WBX, with its big wheels and the box-tube sections. Putting the engine on cardboard and sliding it takes that extra height away and it all probably equals out.

61Scout, thanks for the concerns. You're right, I made it sound pretty dodgy. The jack stands are on plates of 3/4" OSB board that is performing fine, zero crush with flat, solid ground underneath.
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