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How to replace cup holders - a pictoral
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r39o
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 17, 2013 4:28 pm    Post subject: How to replace cup holders - a pictoral Reply with quote

How to replace cup holders in a Carat / Weekender / Multivan

Tools:
Drill - 1/8. 3/16, 1/4 all can work *IF* you are careful (see below)
Little Vise Grips will help
Small punch
Small hammer
Pop Rivet tool and aluminum Pop rivets (size tbd until I find the box!)
DO NOT USE BIG SCREWS TO HOLD CUP HOLDERS INTO PLASTIC!

For front passenger seat pedestal mounted (next post):
Screwdriver (for front) and 6 #8 x 3/4 counter-sunk sheet metal screws (wood screw can work too.)

Typical broken cup holder:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Make sure replacement cup holder will work (mine do):
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Use some thing to catch debris (I like my $5 Wallmart special...)
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Drill rivet heads off at an angle. Important do this sideways about 15 degrees...just get the head off and do NOT drill into the plastic!
DO NOT DRILL OUT RIVETS! They get HOT. They spin. The holes get bigger. You do NOT want to make holes bigger!
DO NOT USE BIG SCREWS TO HOLD CUP HOLDERS INTO PLASTIC!
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The left over ends of rivets
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


You may have to squeeze and twist the old rivets. Careful not to make holes bigger!
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The prize! Ends of old rivets. You may need to use a punch too.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Ready. Note the one hole on the left is a bit bigger - my mistake! BE CAREFUL!
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Be sure to line the rivets up before tightening.
DO NOT USE BIG SCREWS TO HOLD CUP HOLDERS INTO PLASTIC!
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Install!
DO NOT USE BIG SCREWS TO HOLD CUP HOLDERS INTO PLASTIC!
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Another mistake! You must be sure the holder the rivet are pressed all the way in!
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


DONE....
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Left overs. You need to catch the shavings and bits so you do not have to clean so much....
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


DO NOT USE BIG SCREWS TO HOLD CUP HOLDERS INTO PLASTIC!
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Last edited by r39o on Sun Mar 17, 2013 4:43 pm; edited 4 times in total
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dhaavers
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 17, 2013 5:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why no screws? That's how mine came from the PO... Rolling Eyes
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shadetreetim
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 17, 2013 6:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

dhaavers wrote:
Why no screws? That's how mine came from the PO... Rolling Eyes


Front cupholders are screwed in, back ones are riveted from the factory on my Carat. Screws in the plastic can enlarge the holes, may become loose over time. I had a rear cup holder held on by screws that I was able to go back and rivet successfully. It used to flop around with the screws, now its secured tightly to the wall.

Here's the rivets I used on mine when I replaced a few the other day..
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Walt's advice on aligning all three is accurate. Embarassed On my first one I compressed the first two rivets and then had a heck of a time getting the third one in. The next one went quick because I inserted all three before compressing any. Before I compressed I pushed the holder tight against the wall and pressed in on my rivet tool to make sure rivets seated well.
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goffoz
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 17, 2013 7:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shameless merchant- zing-zing Shame on you
BTW the link I supplied. are US made and adjustable and cheaper
Is this on topic?
Maybe, You are why TK is so quiet...I miss his raves
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whynotvw
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 17, 2013 7:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks for the how to pictures. I just drilled mine all the way through and then installed a larger rivets that fit snugly. No need to mess with pulling the old rivets out. I made sure I found factory used ones then the cheap new ones. I replaced three of them and they all look good.
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Steelhead
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 17, 2013 8:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks. The arms of most of the replacement cupholders I've bought (like pictured above) don't have a strong grasp. lost a few drinks this way. Much prefer the full hoops despite their "ones-size". The only non-hoop version that can a hold heavy drink on a hard corner are the ones they ratchet out to widen but don't "open" per se.

These weak-armed cupholders are a liability. buyer beware. my 2 cents.
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16CVs
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 17, 2013 9:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great write up ! ! !

A few comments on it though . When drilling a pop rivet ,always use the same drill bit as the size of the rivet . Don't just drill the heads off with a big ol drill bit , it is too easy to just pull through when drilling and end up with a huge hole . If you do get a hole that is bigger than you need ,then use a back up washer . They are available where you buy rivets . They are just a washer with the same size ID as the OD of the pop rivet . Those plastic panels are easy to pull and put one on when riveting it back together .

Stacy
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T3 Pilot
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 17, 2013 9:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://www.ultimatecupholders.com/fischercupholder.html
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r39o
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 17, 2013 11:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

dhaavers wrote:
Why no screws? That's how mine came from the PO... Rolling Eyes

Don't always tighten well. You risk stripping and making the hole really big. You may crack the plastic. Later you may not be able to get rivets to hold. Just a bad idea.

whynotvw wrote:
thanks for the how to pictures.

Welcome. I have been getting questions. Without a few hints, this simple task can turn in to a big pain fast.

whynotvw wrote:
I just drilled mine all the way through and then installed a larger rivets that fit snugly. No need to mess with pulling the old rivets out. I made sure I found factory used ones then the cheap new ones. I replaced three of them and they all look good.

Drilling through, can make the old rivets spin. If they spin they can enlarge the holes. If they spin they can melt plastic and make a friction fit and then they are stuck.

I wish I could find bits to fix the old cup holders, but usually the base is broken. Most people are not so lucky to find any to replace them.

New factory cup holders, if you can get them, are over $20 - $30 and I have seen them as high as $40. Just not for me.....

Steelhead wrote:
Thanks. The arms of most of the replacement cupholders I've bought (like pictured above) don't have a strong grasp. lost a few drinks this way. Much prefer the full hoops despite their "ones-size". The only non-hoop version that can a hold heavy drink on a hard corner are the ones they ratchet out to widen but don't "open" per se.

YUP, right. Not perfect. They are US made, and maybe they can be made better. We'll see.

Vwcrewman wrote:
Great write up ! ! !

Thank you.

Vwcrewman wrote:
A few comments on it though . When drilling a pop rivet ,always use the same drill bit as the size of the rivet . Don't just drill the heads off with a big ol drill bit , it is too easy to just pull through when drilling and end up with a huge hole .

Exactly.

So use a smallish drill to drill a bit off angle to pop the heads off and not spin the old rivet. Once spun, they are a pain. Pain because you need to be very careful to get them out and not damage the plastic.

Vwcrewman wrote:
If you do get a hole that is bigger than you need ,then use a back up washer . They are available where you buy rivets . They are just a washer with the same size ID as the OD of the pop rivet . Those plastic panels are easy to pull and put one on when riveting it back together.

Without taking the panel off you can not put the washers on!!!!

Just be careful in the first place.
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OddN
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 18, 2013 2:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

In my 86 Multivan the cupholders were attached with rivets like shown, however in a later model (90ish) Bluestar interiour I had they were held in place with snapnuts and screws. That is also how it is done in the Eurovan (T4) models in Europe. Just an idea if you have enlargened the holes too much for rivets.
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shepherdsond
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 18, 2013 8:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
The arms of most of the replacement cupholders I've bought (like pictured above) don't have a strong grasp. lost a few drinks this way. Much prefer the full hoops despite their "ones-size". The only non-hoop version that can a hold heavy drink on a hard corner are the ones they ratchet out to widen but don't "open" per se.

These weak-armed cupholders are a liability. buyer beware. my 2 cents.

Agreed.

These work well and they are on sale now for $6.08:
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/adjustable-drink-holder-black/4176
Just purchased one.
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Jake de Villiers
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 18, 2013 8:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nicely done Walt - now correct the spelling of "pictorial" in the title! Wink
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maryloucb
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PostPosted: Fri May 23, 2014 8:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you for this! Just broke my last cupholder and now I want to replace them--this pictorial is just what I needed.
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