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My 71 Super Beetle
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GruesomeJeans
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 24, 2013 10:11 pm    Post subject: My 71 Super Beetle Reply with quote

Hi there, my name is Dylan. I just got myself a 1971 VW Super Beetle 2 days ago. It has a lot of problems but for $575, I think I got a pretty good deal on it. I have a few pictures then I'll tell a bit more about it.

These are from the day I got it home.
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I don't know much about VW's but I think this is a 1600CC dual port motor.
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So I think one of the biggest issues as of now is the no starting issue. When there is a good battery in it (the one that came with it is dead), the motor cranks but doesn't fire. We did test drive it before I bought it but we had to drag it behind the previous owners truck to compression start it. Once it was running, it was a little rough but it ran well. We drove it a little bit and it seemed to be rolling alright, the tires are bad though.

A neighbor suggested that maybe the valves are out of adjustment causing it to not start so I plan to get some gaskets and a battery in the next few days, then I can begin testing stuff. So far all the exterior lights seem to work besides the blinkers, I am thinking it is the flasher relay but don't have a repair manual to see where it is. I pulled one out from under the hood that looked like one but I'm not sure.

Pretty much the most I've done to this little car is cleaned up the inside a little, and repaired some loose connections on the batter cables (Voltage Regulator wire, and a starter wire.) I also was poking around under the carpet in the cargo area (?) under the rear window and noticed that the floor is rotted out.


I also have another problem I wanted to ask about, I only got 1 key with the car and it fits the ignition fine but won't fit the door locks. I read that there is one key for everything so maybe I am missing something? I tried flipping the key over and it didn't change anything. It goes about 3/4 the way in and just stops.

Anyways, I hope to gain a lot of knowledge form this site and meet some cool people. Thanks!
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76VwBug1600
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 24, 2013 10:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hell of a buy for that price.
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sb001
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 24, 2013 10:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Congrats on the purchase! As for the key not fitting the doors, that would most likely mean the ignition switch was swapped out sometime in the past. Not sure if you could get the door locks rekeyed to fit the ignition key.
Cranking but not starting on its own and running a bit rough may suggest a carburetor issue.
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1975 Kombi
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 25, 2013 5:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Depends how long it was sitting but I would drain the gas tank, rebuild the carb, tune up (plugs, wires, cap, points, rotor), adjust the valves, oil change, compression test and change the oil in the air cleaner and then see how it runs. Change out the brake fluid. You should be able to rekey the handles and if you like to tinker you could probably do it yourself if you have some spare tumblers or just get a hold of one of the key guy on here and buy the tumblers off them.
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Jon65
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 25, 2013 2:56 pm    Post subject: Re: My 71 Super Beetle Reply with quote

GruesomeJeans wrote:
don't have a repair manual to see where it is.


You should get the Bentley manual for your car. It will help you out a lot.
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Tim Donahoe
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 25, 2013 4:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have two keys. One for doors; one for the ignition (which was replaced; hence, it has it's own key).

Looks like a good deal to me.

Tim
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GruesomeJeans
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 25, 2013 9:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks everyone! I've been kind of busy lately and haven't had time to reply. But I have an update! I bought a manual, a Haynes, and started tinkering with things today. After putting the new battery in, I solved the issue of my turn signals not working. There was no fuse in that slot. So I got that fixed, then moved onto the no start issue. I went through some general checking and found out that I am getting fuel, and getting a good spark (shocked my step dad through a piece of rubber... Oops), anyways so it is getting the essentials for running. I haven't pulled the valve cover yet to check the valves. I did a "Static Timing" where you line up the crank pulley notch with the block seem then use a test light to find out where the proper time is. Since it isn't running it's a bit hard to time it, but I think I got it close. Still no start. After thinking about how we got it started before, we figure it probably doesn't have compression. There isn't any real puffing sounds when it cranks and to get it running the PO took it up to about 15-20 MPH while it was in gear to get it to fire.

Tomorrow I have to replace a messed up brake line on my Bronco but once that's done I can turn my attention to getting the valve covers off and see how the valves look. We took the dizzy cap off and the points, condenser, and rotor all looked fairly new. The cap looked good underneath. I also want to pull the spark plugs and not only do a compression test but also see how they look, if they are pretty fouled or not gapped or something.

But today wasn't a total loss! I got the Title transferred and the tabs renewed so it's in my name and legal. Then getting the blinkers to work was a nice bonus. I was afraid that it was going to be something worse. Unfortunately there are a lot of cut up wires in this car and I have no clue on what is tied into the main wiring and what is just extra crapola that one of the PO's put in.


As for the door lock issue, I don't know anything about the Tumblers and such so if I can get the locks out fairly easily, I know of a place that could make a key for less than $5. I just am not a fan of leaving my vehicle unlocked these days. Some of the neighbor hood kids like to vandalize cars.
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camaroboi13
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 25, 2013 9:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can't imagine there'd be much difference, but in my 69 there's literally one screw holding the whole door handle assembly on and it's right next to the weather stripping. Just pull that screw and work the handle out and take it to your local guy.

Where abouts in washington are you?
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GruesomeJeans
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 25, 2013 10:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

camaroboi13 wrote:
I can't imagine there'd be much difference, but in my 69 there's literally one screw holding the whole door handle assembly on and it's right next to the weather stripping. Just pull that screw and work the handle out and take it to your local guy.

Where abouts in washington are you?

What about any rods or levers for the lock cylinder?

I am in a small town called Algona. It's in between Tacoma and Seattle, next to Auburn and Federal Way.
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tabney
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 25, 2013 10:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice find for the price.
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GruesomeJeans
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 25, 2013 10:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

tabney wrote:
Nice find for the price.

Thanks. The guy wanted $600 but after 2 other people screwed around with it for 2 hours he told them too leave and offered me $575 AND he said he would deliver it to my house on a car dolly. Seeing as it isn't road worthy, I couldn't pass it up. It's a great blank canvas for a nice resto.
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zimmyjim
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 26, 2013 5:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

awesome deal!
when u say ur getting gas, where r u checking
from?? if it isnt squirting out the faucet in the carb
when u look down it and give it gas, then ur not quite
getting it where u need it Wink
completely clean/rebuild ur carb if u havent already...
also get rid of any old gas in the tank and lines and
change anything rubber...its inexpensive, and another
thing off the list....ive just did all the above and then some,
and my car is running lots better than it did 2 weeks ago.
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GruesomeJeans
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 26, 2013 5:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What I ment is that when I open the choke and peek down the carb at the faucet and I pull the throttle, it squirts quite a bit in. The weird thing is, the fuel filter is practically empty... I don't quite understand it but it is getting fuel. One thing I could do is set up a video camera and record it cranking. The last time we had a bug around our house was years ago so I don't quite remember how it would normally sound when it cranks. Currently it sounds like the starter motor is not even touching the flywheel. However, the motor turns.
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GruesomeJeans
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 26, 2013 9:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alright folks. I got a short video.


Link


I hope I won't need to pull the motor but if I had too, then I guess it would be a good time for a rebuild.
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1975 Kombi
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 27, 2013 5:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The door handle comes off easy. Just undo the screw behind the rubber door seal and slide the handle towards the rear of the car. The code is listed on the handle and if the ignition is original the key should fit that also.
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Also once the valve covers are off turn the car over and watch to see that the valves are all moving. Place a pan down because some oil may flow out. It is turning over but does sound like low compression to me but check it out to be sure.

For a compression check:

Adjust valves
Charge battery
Remove air breather
Remove all plugs and check them
Hold choke open
The engine should be warm but don't worry about that
It should jump 25 psi each pump for 4 or 5 pumps but go 6 or 7
Good compression jumps in 25 psi until units until 125-150psi each cylinder
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zimmyjim
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 27, 2013 7:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

if ur timing is messed up it could keep it from starting..
on my car, if its too bad, the motor will spin sluggishly
and possibly backfire if ur getting spark...
i dont think low compression would keep it from starting..
it just woudnt have much power..
ur issue appears to b a simple one if u can just find it..
i think that bug should run.
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GruesomeJeans
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 27, 2013 9:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the info. In the Haynes manual it talks about a static timing check where you line up the notch in the crank pulley to the block seam, then take a test light and ground it to the block. Put the needle of the light onto the green wire on the coil then turn the distributor till the light turns off, turn it back till it gets to the point where the light just turns on then tighten the clamps down.

I know it isn't as good as timing it while it runs but I had already loosened the dizzy and turned it a bunch so I used this to try to get it back to where it needs to be. I would like to work on it today but I have to fix a brake line on my bronco, I had to get it towed home after a tire fell off and the tow truck driver crimped the steel line on the axle.
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GruesomeJeans
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 27, 2013 8:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well today I found out that I can lock the boot (hood). My brother had a 71 super with a sun roof and his profile is probably still on here but he taught me how it works. I was wondering what the small lever in the glove box was for. I'm glad it works now. I won't be so worried about leaving my tool box in there. It also appears that all the windows and doors are pretty water tight, we had quite a lot of rain today and I haven't seen any drips or water getting in.

On another note, I know most forums ask that you use the search function before asking a question but a lot of times the results are too vague. I was telling my brother about how I ordered these http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=251225340486 and he said it was a bad idea because the ceramic bullet fuses are prone to causing fires. And that most people will convert to glass fuses. The issues is, I don't see any way to get glass fuses to stay up in the fuse slots. My 78 Bronco has glass fuses but that has metal flanges that pinch the metal top and bottom of the fuse and keep it in place.

Basically I am kind of asking what you more experience VW owners say about it. I'd like to not cause a fire in my new bug but I would also like to not go through the trouble of finding the appropriate glass fuses.
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GregM
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 27, 2013 8:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can re-key your door locks to match the key if you are interested.
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1975 Kombi
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 27, 2013 8:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would stick with the bullet fuses. I haven't heard of the fire thing but maybe someone else has. Unless you change out the entire fuse panel to use the glass fuses you will have problems keeping the glass fuses in there.
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“He’s decieving you boy! Reach into his pocket and take what he’s got.” Mr. Crabbs.

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71 SB
74 Westy
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