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generator to alternator
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Ron G
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 19, 2013 9:08 pm    Post subject: generator to alternator Reply with quote

can anyone tell me or have a diagram that would be better on what i need to do to convert my gen to alt.
what wires do i need to disconnect from voltage reg. and where they would go to the alt. and light on dash.
I am getting the kit but would like to know ahead of time how the wires go and what i can eliminate.
Brick wall

71 super beetle,

another question, the gen. works but isnt the alt better, i know it is on any other car. I have been a hot rod builder for years and this is my first VW, doing a semi restore, everything new, and the wiring on these cars is amazing, they really did some funny things on these VW's and how they routed wires to different locations. Brick wall
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Danwvw
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 19, 2013 9:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just did this on my 1971 bus, used an alternator stand and alternator from a 74 bug, I had to put in a alternator external voltage regulator on mine because it was a 1 year only thing in 1974 they used a delta wound external reg alternator. I used the plug that came off of the 74 and just tied all the wires in that were on it. The wire colors green, brown and red D+ all matched up with the regulator I bought new, it was for a Bosch alternator. The B+ post on the alternator goes to the positive on the battery. If your alternator is the internal regulator type it will be a lot more simple. The D+ also goes to the alternator or generator light wire. The lamp in the speedometer becomes part of the charge circuit providing excitation voltage for the alternator to start charging so the dash light must be a good incandescent bulb not an LED lamp. You should not need any of the wiring to the old generator voltage regulator under the seat. But you need to connect B+ to the battery and the big red wire could be used for that. Also the gen light wire is there on the old reg. and will need to be connected to D+ of the alternator. Best to just look at a wiring diagram: http://www.vw-resource.com/alternator_wiring.html

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Ferguson
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 20, 2013 7:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

here is another diagram for doing the conversion its all done at the regulator
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Ron G
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 20, 2013 9:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys, I knew it would not take long to get an answer from here.
in reality these are pretty simple cars. I am loving this.
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Busdriver79
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 20, 2013 1:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it ain't broke....don't fix it....just my $.02.
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Ron G
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 20, 2013 2:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

lol, i just don't want it to break.

but I am having fun working on a bug again.
only had one when i was 16 it was a 56 and wish i had it now.
I will enjoy the rebuild.
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Helirich
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 21, 2013 6:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If your not going for stock, why not just get a "one wire" altenator?tear the other stuff out.
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ashman40
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 21, 2013 7:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

In general, the alternator has more output (amps) than the generator. If you don't have a need for the extra output the generator is a good system and allows for more DIY repairs (eg. brushes; VR).
You do know that you will need to change the fan backing plates and stand along with the alternator itself. Try to get one of the kits with all the needed parts.

Also, you will need to make sure you have a solid connection under the rear seat where the three red wires come together in the pic above. If you can find the large white rectangular junction that came with the later alternator models that would be best. Otherwise you will need to come up with a way to get a good high amperage electrical junction. One option that others have suggested are the terminal blocks used by high end audio systems for amplifiers. Good luck!
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Ron G
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 21, 2013 8:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

great info guys, yes I understand about the fan housing and the high output terminals will not be a problem, I like the answer about the gen being a good set up and easy to fix if problems, It works great now and Im not running any hi-end radio or amps. I think you guys answered a question that will save me some bucks and I like that.

again thanks for all the help.

The wiring on these VW's is similar to reg. cars but yet so different.
I look and follow the wires to see where they go and ask myself why did they do that. I have built several hot rod show cars in my days with new wiring harness and it is a breeze to these. But you know what, I am having a blast with this little bug, its been a real long time sense I had fun working on a car.Smile.
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Helirich
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 21, 2013 9:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The reason all new cars have alternators is that they consume no power unless they are making power. (The belt consumes some power) a generator is always a drag on the engine weather you need it or not. So if you want better MPG, get an altenator. Although I don't know if you would notice an increase.
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 21, 2013 1:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

when I did the conversion on my car I used a power distribution block like what is used in car stereo systems, it works good and makes a solid connection
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ashman40
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 21, 2013 4:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's one similar to the pic above and it's only $6.
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=265-800
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Danwvw
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 22, 2013 11:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Helirich wrote:
The reason all new cars have alternators is that they consume no power unless they are making power. (The belt consumes some power) a generator is always a drag on the engine weather you need it or not. So if you want better MPG, get an altenator. Although I don't know if you would notice an increase.


This may be something that is said about generators vs alternators but it's likely not true. At least not accurate, Because I was measuring some things on mine which has the external voltage regulator and there is was little over 5 volts on the alternator brushes at idle and a charged battery. At full charge the voltage on mine went up to about 7 volts on the brushes. The brushes feed electricity to the armature which is a rotating electro-magnet which generates the electricity in the fixed windings inside the alternator that is in turn rectified by 2 separate Diode Bridges one for the B+ circuit that runs the battery and one for the D+ circuit that runs the regulator and the armature which has about 4 ohms resistance, there must be about 1 amp being made all the time for the armature just to match the battery voltage. Probably some current in the B+ circuit too raising the 12 volt car battery to almost 14 volts.
Hope this is not too much information but I like understanding stuff like this.
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Mark51
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 19, 2013 10:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi, people,

In a 1970 beetle, the engine died.
A friend/mechanic sold me another 1600 engine...
with an Alternator, not a Generator.
I installed the engine, and did the wiring thing shown above,
(eliminating the Voltage Regulator...
on the Alternator, big red wire to B+, smaller green wire to D+.
Near where the VRegulator was, 3 big red wires connected together,
and the smaller green wire connected to the small blue wire.)
It now starts and runs.

The problem...
the Generator idiot light on the dashboard is always on.

While the engine was running, I disconnected the battery ground cable,
and the engine continued running.
I think that means that the alternator Is making electricity.

Still, the idiot light is on.

Any clues as to Why this is?

Thanks.

Mark51
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Ron G
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 19, 2013 4:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mark51 wrote:
Hi, people,

In a 1970 beetle, the engine died.
A friend/mechanic sold me another 1600 engine...
with an Alternator, not a Generator.
I installed the engine, and did the wiring thing shown above,
(eliminating the Voltage Regulator...
on the Alternator, big red wire to B+, smaller green wire to D+.
Near where the VRegulator was, 3 big red wires connected together,
and the smaller green wire connected to the small blue wire.)
It now starts and runs.

The problem...
the Generator idiot light on the dashboard is always on.

While the engine was running, I disconnected the battery ground cable,
and the engine continued running.
I think that means that the alternator Is making electricity.

Still, the idiot light is on.

Any clues as to Why this is?

Thanks.


If you look at Danwvw post with the diagram he says you need to connect the gen. wire to the D+ of the Alt. double check to see if that is what you did. and read his post, hope this helps.
Mark51
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ashman40
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 19, 2013 5:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mark51 wrote:
The problem...
the Generator idiot light on the dashboard is always on.

When you say "always" do you mean even when the ignition switch is OFF?
If so, the diodes in the alternator have likely failed. With everything OFF, disconnect the wire from the D+ terminal of the alternator and connect a voltmeter. Do you measure more than 1v? If so, the diodes have failed. Normally, when the alternator is not spinning the D+ terminal is grounded.

If this is only a problem when the ignition switch is ON, check the wiring at the speedo. Make sure the black 12v+ wire from the fuse box connects to the lowest spade terminal at the bottom of the speedo. The three bulb holders just above this connection should each have a blue wire that run to a switched ground. If these wires area mixed up it might cause your problem.
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AshMan40
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'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!}
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Mark51
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 19, 2013 8:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the replies, people.

Ron G;
I already mentioned that I connected the small green wire to the alternator D+.
I've now also looked at the wiring diagram mentioned in his post:
http://www.vw-resource.com/alternator_wiring.html
Interesting info there, but I don't think it solves this problem.

Ashman40;
I apologize for my misleading statement.
No,... the idiot light is not On when the ignition is Off.
Please clarify what you're suggesting...
With the key Off, I should disconnect the wire from D+,
and then use a voltmeter from D+ to Ground? Is that correct?

Yup,... the problem is only when the key is On.
OK,... I'll re-check that wiring. Thanks.

FYI... the idiot light worked as expected with the old engine
(that had a Generator, not an Alternator).
Does that help in solving this problem?

Thanks very much for your input.

Mark51
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ashman40
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 19, 2013 11:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mark51 wrote:
Ashman40;
I apologize for my misleading statement.
No,... the idiot light is not On when the ignition is Off.
Please clarify what you're suggesting...
With the key Off, I should disconnect the wire from D+,
and then use a voltmeter from D+ to Ground? Is that correct?

Yup,... the problem is only when the key is On.
OK,... I'll re-check that wiring. Thanks.

Yes, remove the wire from the D+ terminal at the alternator.
Place your red voltmenter probe on the D+ terminal of the alternator. Hold the black probe to ground. There are a collection of diodes separating the B+ and D+ terminals in the alternator. These diodes prevent positive current from one terminal from reaching the other. If you read more than 1v the diode is not doing its job.
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AshMan40
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'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!}
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Mark51
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 20, 2013 10:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

And here's another little piece of information that might be useful...
When I got the engine, the little green wire from the Distributor
was already hooked up... to the wrong side of the Coil. Confused
I assumed it was already where it should be, so
when I tried to start the car for the first time, I fried that wire.
THEN, I looked at a wiring diagram, fixed the wire, and hooked it up correctly.

It does run, now, but... Could that have screwed up any other parts?

Thanks.

Mark51
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ashman40
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 20, 2013 4:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the green points wire was connected to the positive side of the coil along with the other black wires the engine would never have started. Someone did that between when it last ran and when you received it. Whether it was intentional or accidental you should figure out who is responsible and have them pay for the repairs.

That circuit is NOT fused. By connecting the green wire with the black wires a direct short to ground was created. This means the entire ignition circuit path could have been damaged. Depending how long you left the ignition ON and how long the points were closed you could have burnt/melted everything from the battery post to the VR to the headlight switch to the ignition switch the fuse box and then the wiring harness from the dash to the rear of the car. All of them would have been exposed to the direct short and may have started to heat up/melt. You need to investigate and see if there's was any other damaged.
Admittedly, the green wire from the points to the ignition coil should be the first wire to melt. You did replace the points and condenser, right?
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'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!}
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