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6V Fog light and relay question
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jseabolt
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 07, 2013 7:47 am    Post subject: 6V Fog light and relay question Reply with quote

Once again this pertains to my 6 volt Trabbi.

I'm wanting to add some fog lights to my car but have a couple of thoughts/questions.

First of all, I've got some original DDR 6 volt relays but they look "modern". I would like to use one of these type in the engine compartment because they look more period correct. Sort of matches the external voltage regulator.

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http://www.ebay.com/itm/121159571309?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

This is actually a horn relay. I asked the guy if he knew the amperage rating but he did not know if would hold up to continuous use or not.

I have some 12V 30 amp horn relays that look just the same. These should hold up but would 6V be enough to trip the electro-magnet? I guess I could rig these up to my car's battery and see.

Some relays will engage as low as 3 volts. Of course that is going to cut how many amps I run through this relay in half at 6 volts. But based on my testing I did on my headlights, two 55 watt bulbs should pull around 20 amps at 6 volts.

My second question are the bulbs. These foglights use H3 bulbs and I managed to find some 6V 55 watt bulbs to fit them. I could aim these so they shine straight ahead when the highbeams are on to give me some additional light.

Or wire them up to come on with the park lights and leave the original 12V 55 watt bulbs in and aim them more toward the ground so they only shine half as bright and more directly in front of me. That way I won't blind on coming drivers.
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VOLKSWAGNUT
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 07, 2013 8:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

In some places it is not legal to have fog/driving lights operatonal with the High Beams.

You''ll have to test that relay to find out if 6 volts will trigger it.. most likely it will.
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KTPhil Premium Member
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 07, 2013 10:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Test it at idle to be sure it doesn't switch off when you have all that load and resultant voltage drops.

The projected pattern for foglamps is wide with a sharp vertical cutoff. This is best for fog, allowing the lamps to light up the roadway but not throw glare back from the fog. If mounted low enough, they can actually skip the lights between the ground and fog and project even further.

When driving at higher speeds when you need your high beams on, this pattern is useless. Driving lights are a pencil beam that projects far down the road and excludes the sides.

So for practical, not just legal reasons, foglamps should be wired to low beams.

It is vital that foglamps be aimed carefully, or they will throw nasty glare into oncoming traffic. That can get you a ticket or worse.
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jseabolt
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 07, 2013 1:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

KTPhil wrote:
Test it at idle to be sure it doesn't switch off when you have all that load and resultant voltage drops.

The projected pattern for foglamps is wide with a sharp vertical cutoff. This is best for fog, allowing the lamps to light up the roadway but not throw glare back from the fog. If mounted low enough, they can actually skip the lights between the ground and fog and project even further.

When driving at higher speeds when you need your high beams on, this pattern is useless. Driving lights are a pencil beam that projects far down the road and excludes the sides.

So for practical, not just legal reasons, foglamps should be wired to low beams.

It is vital that foglamps be aimed carefully, or they will throw nasty glare into oncoming traffic. That can get you a ticket or worse.


I believe these are just run of the mill auxillary lights. I got them from JC Whitney's back in the 90s.

I thought they quit making them but I Googled them and they are still in production.

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http://www.eagleeyelights.com/catalog2/index.php?m...np5fu8lf40

When I connected one of them to my Trabbi's 6 volt battery, it was as bright as a 12V/55 watt bulb. According to the website the lights come with 12 volt 100 watts per bulb. No wonder!

I have to be careful how much wattage I run with my lights because my generator/regulator is only rated at 220 watts.

I have already replaced the 40/45 watt R2 bulbs with 55/65 watt bulbs with R2 to H4 adapters in the headlights.

I may need to rethink this. When the high beams are only, that's already 130 watts with 90 watts to spare.

Maybe I should install the 6V 55 watt bulbs run these lights in series (if possible) so they share the current and don't drag down my electrical system. Roughly 30 watts per light sounds a bit pointless but these lamps are more/less for looks.

I have some of those 100 watt pencil beam Cibie lights on my 1980 Fiat Spider. I have those wired into the high beams. I can see a mile down the road when with those things! These things are so bright I can't run them against on coming traffic anyway. That's why I wired them into the high beams.

I never could understand the whole deal where the auxillary lights need to go out with the high beams on. Simply being, when you need more light, generally you flip the high beams on. Ordinarily you wouldn't run the high beams on against on coming traffic.

I don't know if that make sense or not.
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