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Kaput Samba Member

Joined: December 12, 2002 Posts: 859 Location: Lakewood, CO
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Posted: Fri Jan 02, 2015 9:21 am Post subject: Oil leak! Rear Main Seal / Front Engine Seal? |
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I have a 1970 Bus with 1600dp.
I was leaking some oil before but the temperature dropped to 2 degrees the other day here in Colorado and is still pretty cold.
I started the bus up and I have a pretty good leak from the front of the engine (seems to hafe gotten far worse from the cold). I am looking online and in my idiot book and I think I need to replace the seal behind the flywheel and adjust the endplay.
The idiot book calls it a front seal and the internet seams to call it a rear main seal.
Are these the same seal?
The procedure is here in the book and a couple videos but I'm not quite sure what to buy for a seal or shims for the endplay adjustment.
The engine in the bus is a 1600dp from a 1974 ghia.
Can anyone send me a link to the correct seal and shims? A kit possibly?
-=thanks=- |
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Kaput Samba Member

Joined: December 12, 2002 Posts: 859 Location: Lakewood, CO
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Posted: Fri Jan 02, 2015 9:39 am Post subject: |
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| is this also called the crankshaft seal? |
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airschooled Air-Schooled

Joined: April 04, 2012 Posts: 13611 Location: West Coast, USA
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Posted: Fri Jan 02, 2015 10:28 am Post subject: |
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Hi there,
First off, thanks for posting the detailed information we need to help you.
Since you have a T1 engine, you'll need the (more easily accessible) 1300-1600 shims. Aircooled.net makes a nice set of two of each size.
http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Flywheel-Shim-Kit-1300-1600cc-Engines-Set-of-10-p/flywheel-shim-kit.htm
If you don't want to spend that much/buy that many shims, you can disassemble your shim stack, measure your endplay, and measure your shims. If your end play is .008" for example, you would want to replace your smallest shim with a shim .004" larger. This would give you a .004" end play, which is right in the acceptable range of .003"-.005". This is hard to get perfect, as sometimes shims are worn to non-even sizes, and sometimes the markings/sizes just don't add up perfectly. In that case, you're probably best off ordering a few different sizes. And at that point, you're probably better off ordering the kit...
Also refresh your flywheel o-ring if you have it. Some older flywheels don't, but it's a safe cheap bet to buy an oring before your engine is apart and on the floor.
http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Flywheel-O-Ring-1300-1600cc-Engines-311-105-295A-p/311-105-295a.htm
From experience, you MUST install a new crankshaft oil seal when setting the end play. I thought I could be clever my first time around and peel the shims out, but I had a prodigious oil slick in my driveway afterwards.
Ahh the age old discussion of what to call that seal!
On OUR Volkswagens, they're on the front. So front main seal sounds right. But on MOST other cars, it's in the rear, so rear main seal is an "industry standard" term. On a T1 like ours, it's the only seal. So "main seal" is appropriate to avoid internet fights. I also like calling it the "flywheel seal" to really avoid confusion, because T4 engines have another seal around the other rear end of the crank we can call the "fan seal." Now what happens when someone who calls the flywheel seal the rear main seal needs a fan seal for their T4? The "other" rear main seal?
Robbie _________________ One-on-one tech help for your vintage Volkswagen:
www.airschooled.com
Road trip reports and tech blog:
https://www.patreon.com/airschooled |
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Kaput Samba Member

Joined: December 12, 2002 Posts: 859 Location: Lakewood, CO
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Posted: Fri Jan 02, 2015 11:00 am Post subject: |
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Thanks asiab3
Exactly what I needed to know, I think I have everything needed in my cart.
Hopefully I can dig up that flywheel lock somewhere. |
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SGKent  Samba Member

Joined: October 30, 2007 Posts: 42906 Location: at the beach
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Posted: Fri Jan 02, 2015 11:07 am Post subject: |
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when it is cold the oil is thick which results in high pressure. Are you sure the leak is coming from between the engine and transmission, and not dripping down from the oil cooler at the back? High pressure might blow out that seal if it was weak, or even rupture the oil cooler. _________________
Canned Water - the new California approved parts cleaner (except in a drought in which case rub it with sand).
George Carlin:
"Most people don't know what they're doing, and a lot of them are really good at it."
Skills@EuroCarsPlus:
"never time to do it right but always time to do it twice"  |
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Tcash Samba Member

Joined: July 20, 2011 Posts: 12843 Location: San Jose, California, USA
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Wasted youth Samba Member

Joined: July 06, 2012 Posts: 5175 Location: California's Hot and Smoggy Central Valley
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Posted: Fri Jan 02, 2015 11:54 am Post subject: |
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Not to scare you off, but one of the conditions I had was leaking oil from the front seal (like you), and really excessive crankshaft endplay (which you are NOT indicating you have.)
So, be sure to really look at things when you have the engine out and have the seal and shims out.
This is what I found:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=615690
Again, I am NOT saying you will have this, but really take care in your crankshaft endplay calculations, and never exceed maximum allowable shim stacking. |
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Kaput Samba Member

Joined: December 12, 2002 Posts: 859 Location: Lakewood, CO
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Posted: Fri Jan 02, 2015 6:52 pm Post subject: |
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I am not sure that it is not the oil cooler, I suppose I should check that.
Wasted Youth , you are scaring me!
Can the fan shroud be removed to check the oil cooler and seals without pulling the engine?> |
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grtfldan Samba Member

Joined: December 06, 2007 Posts: 141 Location: Maryland
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Posted: Fri Jan 02, 2015 7:55 pm Post subject: |
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gotta pull the motor, but on a 70 its a breeze. _________________ 79 Bay 2.0 Fuel Injection
79 Bay project |
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Kaput Samba Member

Joined: December 12, 2002 Posts: 859 Location: Lakewood, CO
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Posted: Fri Jan 02, 2015 11:13 pm Post subject: |
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| This will be my first time pulling the engine on the 70. I assume it will be about the same as my old 65 (no longer own it.) Probably easier since a PO cut an access hole in the top of the engine compartment resembling a later bus in rough fashion. |
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Wasted youth Samba Member

Joined: July 06, 2012 Posts: 5175 Location: California's Hot and Smoggy Central Valley
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Posted: Sat Jan 03, 2015 6:18 am Post subject: |
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| Kaput wrote: |
| Probably easier since a PO cut an access hole in the top of the engine compartment resembling a later bus in rough fashion. |
What kind of person does that to a 1970 bus? :2gunfire:
Last edited by Wasted youth on Sat Jan 03, 2015 12:54 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Tcash Samba Member

Joined: July 20, 2011 Posts: 12843 Location: San Jose, California, USA
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Posted: Sat Jan 03, 2015 8:36 am Post subject: |
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| Don't forget to disconnect the accelerator cable! |
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busdaddy Samba Member

Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 53160 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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Posted: Sat Jan 03, 2015 11:32 am Post subject: |
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| Kaput wrote: |
| This will be my first time pulling the engine on the 70. I assume it will be about the same as my old 65. |
Very similar except you must support the transmission on an early bay, if the rear of it droops down it'll F' up the shifter. _________________ Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
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