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72 Super Beetle Fix for Shimmies/Shakes
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georgehanson
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 19, 2014 10:41 pm    Post subject: 72 Super Beetle Fix for Shimmies/Shakes Reply with quote

My 72 Super Beetle is starting to shimmie and shake at 40-45mph. I replaced the steering dampner which helped a little, but now the shimmie/shakes are quite regular. Front end appears to be all stock. Where should I start?
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oasis
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 19, 2014 11:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My guess is either you have owned it for a pretty good while and have never done anything to the front end or you are a fairly new owner without knowing much of its history. If either case is right, I would go to TopLineParts.com and order up everything they have to offer to cure your shakes (sans damper if you replaced it with a new one).

If you insist at piece-mealing away, make sure your wheels and tires are properly balanced. After that, it's a guessing game. But that's not how I would go about it if I intended to drive it any amount.
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Rag00oll
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 19, 2014 11:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bushings probably need replaced on the control arms as well.

Someday I'll deal with the same issue Very Happy

Until then, Im glad the PO redid the front end, a nice job of it too.
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mountainkowboy
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 19, 2014 11:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just got Topline stuff, sway bar bushings, idler bushing, control arm bushings and make sure your cross link ends are good and tierod ends.
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Tim Donahoe
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 20, 2014 12:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My 40-45 mph shimmies were directly related to worn tie-rod ends.

Jack up the front end and get the weight off the wheels. Grab the tires at 6 and 12 o'clock and give them a few nudges up and down. Then do this at 3 and 9 o'clock. If you get play, it's either wheel bearings--or in my case, I thought it was wheel bearings--but it was actually sloppy, worn tie rod ends.

Check the ball joints, too.

Also, is your steering wheel centered with the wheels pointed straight ahead? If not, have the front end aligned by an alignment shop who can do bugs. Actually, have him check out all your front end stuff while he's there.

Tim
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morymob
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 20, 2014 4:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tires. A tire not 100% true at the start of it's life will slowly get worse an it will develope a gradual wear pattern. U can balance it every day if u want but it will still be out of bal when driven. Used to be able to ;true them up but is not legal?? Bugs 4 yrs and 90+ of super problems were wheel/tires.
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allsidius
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 20, 2014 4:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

morymob wrote:
Tires. A tire not 100% true at the start of it's life will slowly get worse an it will develope a gradual wear pattern. U can balance it every day if u want but it will still be out of bal when driven. Used to be able to ;true them up but is not legal?? Bugs 4 yrs and 90+ of super problems were wheel/tires.


I beg to differ. I drove these cars in 1980. We never had a problem due to poor balancing. Got the tires from the wrecker's yard, never did anything to them, just smacked them on. Then the cars were 5-10 years. Now, the problem is common. That is because all the rubber bushings have degraded in the 40 years since the cars were new. You can reduce the shimmies with careful on-the-car balancing, but it won't go away till you do the bushings and tie-rods, the full package. The steering damper has minimal impact.
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wcfvw69
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 20, 2014 6:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

allsidius wrote:
morymob wrote:
Tires. A tire not 100% true at the start of it's life will slowly get worse an it will develope a gradual wear pattern. U can balance it every day if u want but it will still be out of bal when driven. Used to be able to ;true them up but is not legal?? Bugs 4 yrs and 90+ of super problems were wheel/tires.


I beg to differ. I drove these cars in 1980. We never had a problem due to poor balancing. Got the tires from the wrecker's yard, never did anything to them, just smacked them on. Then the cars were 5-10 years. Now, the problem is common. That is because all the rubber bushings have degraded in the 40 years since the cars were new. You can reduce the shimmies with careful on-the-car balancing, but it won't go away till you do the bushings and tie-rods, the full package. The steering damper has minimal impact.


This is on point. You need to insure ALL your tie rods, bushings, ball joints are in good condition. Any worn components will contribute to the shimmy. I worked in a front end/alignment frame shop in the 80's in S. California when theses cars were still very prevalent on the road. We also trued and balanced the tires ON THE CAR. If a customer brought their bug in for the shimmy, the first thing we did was inspect the suspension components/alignment. If those were ok, we'd spin the tires on the car. If the tire was out of round more than an 1/8 of an inch, we'd true them by cutting the high sport off then balance the tires. There's two different points of balance on the front tires. Up and down and side to side. You have to get them perfect. In all cases, the truing and balancing on the car cured it IF the suspension was tight.
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Cusser
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 20, 2014 8:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My shimmies were cured (1971 with aftermarket mag wheels) by replacing four tie rod ends, the idler bushing, and the front bushings.

Time again for my "famous" photo of my front bushings, which had a few miles left on them, don't you think?
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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19super73
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 20, 2014 9:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/search.php?search_keywords=shimmy&search_forum=3
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Blue69Baja
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 20, 2014 10:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Want to see it in action?

Really shows what goes on when the bushings are gone.


Link


Jim
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El Postino
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 20, 2014 11:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My 71 shimmied so bad at 40-45mph I thought the front wheels were going to fly off on my way to work and as its my daily ride I had to do something about it so, armed with the appropriate tools I drove to a big parking lot and took a line and rolled to a stop using the handbrake. Looking at it from the front I could see the drivers side wheel had no toe-in, it actually had visible toe-out! So I wound the tie rod in til it had visible toe-in and I tested it and repeated this little by little til the shimmy was gone. BTW my buddy wrenched on it one day when I drove my truck to work and didn't tighten one of the lock nuts on one tie rod so double check everything. It drives fine now. I don't drive many miles but when you drive a strut front end you're driving on a knifes edge - anything slightly out of adjustment will show! Even jacking up and lowering the front end can affect the struts and balance if components are worn. Don't bump into concrete stoppers in parking lots either!
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Cusser
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 20, 2014 4:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Blue69Baja wrote:
Want to see it in action?

Really shows what goes on when the bushings are gone.


Link


Jim



Yeah, I always like this one. Great video.
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jberry
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 20, 2014 5:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That video is a real eye opener.. New tie rods helped mine quite a bit. Guess I know what needs to be replaced next.
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Captain Jacques
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 20, 2014 5:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

... And if all of the above fail to solve the problem, make sure one or more of the rims aren't warped or oval. Weider things have happened, even with stock stuff.
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mountainkowboy
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 20, 2014 5:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cusser wrote:
Blue69Baja wrote:
Want to see it in action?

Really shows what goes on when the bushings are gone.


Link


Jim



Yeah, I always like this one. Great video.


Hell of an exhaust leak too!....lol
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mikeonthebike
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 20, 2014 6:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was told to replace everything at the same time. One reason is worn out parts will cause excess wear on the new parts. If every part is worn a little it will cause a lot of shimmy. As you replace parts it will reduce little by little until all the worn parts are replaced. I bought all the parts for my front end a few at a time until I got everything I needed ( couldn't afford all at once with my budget). Then I replaced all at once. That way I didn't have to take things apart more than once. And only had to pay for one alignment.
Really made a big difference in my front end! Nice and tight like a new car!
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 20, 2014 9:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

mikeonthebike wrote:
I was told to replace everything at the same time.


Sounds like someone trying to sell parts and labor to install them. This is not true. I did alignments for years. If a part showed obvious signs of being worn out, yes we changed it. If the tie rods, bushings, struts, shocks or ball joints or other suspension parts did not have obvious play or slop, we only changed the parts that were obviously worn and would impact the car not staying in alignment. It use to make us sick when a woman or a retired person would come to us for a second opinion after another shop feed them this line of BS and wanted to replace everything on their car. Most of the time, the only problem the car had was being out of alignment which caused tire wear and threw there tires out of balance from the wear. I lost count how many hugs or cash tips I got from these people for being honest w/them.
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scottmc
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 20, 2014 10:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

just ordered mine from west coast metric 9.20 for the pair
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allsidius
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 21, 2014 2:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

wcfvw69 wrote:
mikeonthebike wrote:
I was told to replace everything at the same time.


Sounds like someone trying to sell parts and labor to install them. This is not true. I did alignments for years. If a part showed obvious signs of being worn out, yes we changed it. If the tie rods, bushings, struts, shocks or ball joints or other suspension parts did not have obvious play or slop, we only changed the parts that were obviously worn and would impact the car not staying in alignment. It use to make us sick when a woman or a retired person would come to us for a second opinion after another shop feed them this line of BS and wanted to replace everything on their car. Most of the time, the only problem the car had was being out of alignment which caused tire wear and threw there tires out of balance from the wear. I lost count how many hugs or cash tips I got from these people for being honest w/them.


Sounds perfectly reasonable. Nowadays the alignment shops are few and far between, at least where I live. I totally subscribe to the theory of only replacing the defective parts. If you have the knowledge, you will know if the bushing is supposed to move a bit, but how much is a bit? That's where the layman comes short.

To illlustrate my experience:
I had no problems with shimmies when I put my 1973 away in 2000. Got it back in 2007, and it shimmied like hell. It still passed an inspection, although I almost drove off the road on the way back. Was told to replace the idler bushing at the inspection, and it was clearly sloppy. Did that, no improvement in the shimmy. The wheels were balanced off the car. Replaced the steering damper which was totally shot. No change. Replaced all tie-rod ends. Very marginal improvement. Then I had a shop spend half a day, balancing the wheels on the car, rotating the wheels, finding the best wheels for the front (all pretty good, the rims were NOS in 1997. That did it, almost. It doesn't shimmy now, but I can still feel slight vibration at about 50 mph. I guess the bushings are next on the list but now the car drives nice. They are 42 years old now, so I am not going to complain to VW. The only thing stopping me is to decide whether urethane will give me a harsher ride compared to the original rubber, while I know that the rubber quality available is dog poop compared to the quality of 1972.
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