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Tie-Downs and Trailer Hauling a Beetle
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shortride
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 13, 2014 2:01 am    Post subject: Tie-Downs and Trailer Hauling a Beetle Reply with quote

What do you guys recommend for tie-down straps and what and where are the best tie-down locations on a '64 Beetle? I may be hauling a 1964 three hundred seventy-five miles. I've already planned for a U-Haul Car Hauler. It looks like the U-Haul has the tie-down harnesses for the front tires.
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VOLKSWAGNUT
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 13, 2014 6:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chains and binders...
Front axle beam and rear torsion bar tube to the trailer tie downs or frame.
When lashing down use a criss cross pattern to form an "X". (Thats important).
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carlsonj
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 13, 2014 12:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it is lowered the uhaul ones dont work good. I tried them and they are the kind that go over the tire and could not get them on. Had to go buy some at nearby store.
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shortride
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 13, 2014 12:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

carlsonj wrote:
If it is lowered the U-Haul ones don't work good. I tried them and they are the kind that go over the tire and could not get them on. Had to go buy some at nearby store.


Thanks for the heads-up but I don't have to worry about that.
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chad(0\!/0)
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 13, 2014 5:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

VOLKSWAGNUT wrote:
Chains and binders...
Front axle beam and rear torsion bar tube to the trailer tie downs or frame.
When lashing down use a criss cross pattern to form an "X". (Thats important).


Agreed this is important. But more important than an "X" pattern it to have the fronts pulling in a different direction than the rears ie: Fronts pulling forward rears pulling the rear, or Vis-versa.
Over the Tire style straps would be the best, No damage to your beam or torsions. Just be sure to Double Check your work and inspect/adjust as needed after you put some miles down. Good Luck
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shortride
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 14, 2014 2:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

chad(0\!/0) wrote:
VOLKSWAGNUT wrote:
Chains and binders...
Front axle beam and rear torsion bar tube to the trailer tie downs or frame.
When lashing down use a criss cross pattern to form an "X". (Thats important).


Agreed this is important. But more important than an "X" pattern it to have the fronts pulling in a different direction than the rears ie: Fronts pulling forward rears pulling the rear, or Vis-versa.
Over the Tire style straps would be the best, No damage to your beam or torsions. Just be sure to Double Check your work and inspect/adjust as needed after you put some miles down. Good Luck


That's great advice, thanks!
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shortride
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 14, 2014 4:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

What does a '66 Beetle weigh?
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 14, 2014 6:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Approximately 1700 I think. Can anyone post some pictures of the correct way to tie down a bug to a trailer? As they say, "a picture's worth a thousand words"
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shortride
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 14, 2014 6:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ThingBeast wrote:
Approximately 1700 I think. Can anyone post some pictures of the correct way to tie down a bug to a trailer? As they say, "a picture's worth a thousand words"


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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drscope
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 14, 2014 9:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Home Depot usually has decent tie down ratchet straps. They normally go for about $25 a piece. If the straps are too long we normally put the tails inside the car’s doors or trunk so they don’t get loose and drag along behind you.

I don’t normally cut my straps shorter because I never know what we will be hauling next, so it’s always better to have straps that are too long instead of straps that are too short.

It is possible not to have enough straps, but its never possible to have too many! The longer the trip the more we double up on the straps.

Something we got into the habit of doing is to go through the wheels if possible. If the wheels have any sort of open spot in them, put the strap through the wheel and tie the wheels down. That way the wheels are tight in place to the trailer and the suspension can move with bumps in the ride.

You just need to make sure that again you have a straight pull on your straps so the straps aren’t going to pull on the wheel in a way to actually rotate the wheel on the trailer deck and get loose.

Sometimes if you go to chassis or other parts that can move when the suspension goes up and down, your straps can get loose or come off.

Another thing to be aware of on a swing axle car is that the car will walk around side to side as the suspension moves up and down. That’s because of the camber change as the car bounces. Sometimes this can be a real problem depending on the trailer. I know a guy who had a 356 on an open trailer and it walked one wheel off the deck. Big pain to get it back up on the trailer deck.
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 14, 2014 9:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

drscope wrote:
Home Depot usually has decent tie down ratchet straps. They normally go for about $25 a piece.


+1, I bought four of them at Tractor Supply, but they're the same straps. Worked like a charm, and the car didn't move an inch.

BTW I weighed my 66 Beetle on a certified truck scale -- it weighed 1780 pounds, so thingbeast is right on.
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hoghead5150
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 14, 2014 6:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i use the same as most everybody else here, 2 straps in front X pattern, 2 in the back X pattern. i take the long tails of the straps and fold them up then use long zipties to secure them. i put the zip tie around the strap AND the ratchet just for added security the ratchet doesn't come loose.

i usually stop and check the straps for tightness every so often. depends on how long i'm going to be on the road. for 400 miles, i would stop every 50-75 miles to check them. i'm a little over cautious sometimes.
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 15, 2014 10:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I DON'T like the X pattern on the straps. It allows too much length on the straps and in a panic situation when things are going wrong, it is possible for the car to actually flip off the trailer as a result.

It is best to keep your straps going front to back and keep them as short as possible between the car itself and your anchor point.
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 15, 2014 12:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

drscope wrote:
I DON'T like the X pattern on the straps. It allows too much length on the straps and in a panic situation when things are going wrong, it is possible for the car


If your load shifts in a simple panic situation ...you've strapped it wrong....or inadequately.

I do agree... IF the straps...or even chains from the load to the anchor are TOO long... the more potential for movement of the load.

An "X" pattern when executed properly, (cross load) especially a vehicle, will secure it the best to a flatbed.
Simple X
Each corner counter effects the opposite end and corner.
Having the straps/chains angled opposite of each other to form an imaginary straight line diagonally through the load while keeping lengths minimal...but not TOO short..

Straps stretch..way before chains will snap... I like chains and binders for serious loads.. straps for light duty loads.
Cheap straps are just that... CHEAP>>!!!
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aka Ken {o\!/o}
Its your vehicle- stop askin' for approval-do what YOU like for cryin' out loud
Better to roll em' how you want and wear em' out-than lettin' em' rot out
Its about the going not the showing
Rebuilt to drive not decorate
WANTED: Local Eatin' Joints, Triple D for TheSamba contributions here http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=570510
Search "VOLKSWAGNUT" on YouTube since you cant watch a "certain" BELT change video round here
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shortride
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 15, 2014 8:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got home with my new car. I drove to Albuquerque NM Friday morning and just now got home with my beautiful '66 Beetle. I will post pictures later.

I'm tired!
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