Rocker Arm Assembly Came Loose While Driving?

[mattegan]

So.... going down the road this morning, about 65-70 in 4th gear, and.... I mildly feel the car lurch, but I was behind a semi, so I thought it was just a gust of wind.

Then I started slowing down. Turned off the engine and pulled over. I'd previously had this problem and it was as simple as the points coming out of adjustment. I checked that, looked at my rotor cap, and it looked kind of dusty, so I popped a new one on and the engine started right up, but it didn't sound right.

Popped my valve covers off and on the D/S I had three pushrods that were unseated from the rocker arms. I didn't want to attempt any repairs while on the side of a 70mph interstate, so I got a tow a few miles down the road back home.

Anyway, get under the car and quickly realize that one of the nuts holding the rocker arm assembly onto the posts in the head was loose. I could unscrew it with my fingers.

So.... I took the assembly off, checked to make sure my pushrods weren't bent (they didn't look bent at all, one had a slight nick on it, but it didn't seem critical). And then put it back on, reseating the valves. Torqued the nuts back down to 18ft/lbs (as per my Bentley manual) and... she started right up.

She doesn't seem to be running as well as she was before, but I'm thinking that's probably because I need to do a valve/timing adjustment.

Can you guys think of anything that may have been effected inside the engine? Is there anything I should check before getting back on the road? Can I locktite those nuts to keep them secure?

I was about 300 miles out from a valve adjustment anyway, and I've been driving it pretty hard the last 2700 miles (been on road trips every weekend for the past four weeks). So I'm thinking my valves may have been out of adjustment anyway.

Thanks for your help guys!

[Cusser]

[talljordan]

I suppose there is a chance that the valves were unable to close properly if the pushrod got wedged in the open position and the valve hit the cylinder. That would be my guess :/
_________________
1972 Super Beetle, Parked until adequate restoration funding is acquired in restoration!

Wanted: Male computer diagnostic plug end

[mattegan]

Cusser: Yeah, you're totally right. That's why I'm not driving it right now. Going to wait until morning to do the valve adjustment so I know the engine is cold.

Talljordan: Really? I thought the engine wasn't an interference engine, so even at with the valves fully open there's no way for the pistons to strike the valves?

[talljordan]

It was just my best guess, I would definitely adjust the valves first. Someone with more experience can chime in whether or not it is an interference engine, I havent measured.
_________________
1972 Super Beetle, Parked until adequate restoration funding is acquired in restoration!

Wanted: Male computer diagnostic plug end

[mattegan]

Can I put lock washers and loctite on the nuts that are holding the rocker assembly on?

[andrewvwclassic]

Should not need a dose of loctite if you torque to spec. its technically not the best thing but some still do it. imo to have loctite on engine threads is basically weathering them prematurely since its a compound agent. the only way that would serve well is to leave them under torqued. I use it on my bus distributor but thats because I under tighten everything to preserve threads. but thats special treatment for special vintage parts. I also just recently got a hardware kit from cip1 and they came with locnuts that I dought would be compromised if they were torqued to spec.