Engine Recommendations...

[JoeyJoeJoe]

The engine in my 64 standard siezed beyond repair yesterday. What should I buy?

I would like something that is not loud, with good power, and most importantly very reliable. I want a very high qualiy engine that i will not have to worry about. I will be buying a turnkey because i have no wrenching skills.

my bus is wolfgang IRS.

can you guys help me?

please list the approximate cost and HP of the engines you are recommending. thanks a lot!

[iamdonquixote]

go for a 1600 dual port or (preferably) single port.
with stock bus exhaust it will be quietest
it will be most reliable.
you won't notice a bigger engine in a bus unless you get a big one and that will cost you $

[P|LLs]

Why do most people like the single port Vs the Dual port?

[Stocknazi]

single port has more low end torque. gives you a little more room in the engine compartment. no intake rubbers to change.
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[60freak]

2.0 liter or a 1904cc, stock size valves with minor porting and mild cam, with a quiet pack exhaust (7:1 compression) and Kad's....you can't go wrong with a tuned down "mild" stroker and you'll still get 20mpg or better, plus you'll keep up WAY better than any 1600 powered bus can in traffic/hills. Get a hold of Steve Hollingsworth to build it for you, it will last a lifetime. After daily driving my 2.0L/2007cc (approx 110HP & 120-130 Torque) and going on a few long road trips for the past 3-4 months I can't see why anyone would ever want a 1600(flame suit is on).....I will never go back to a 1600, never ever. Thats just my .02. Good Luck!

[winmotors]

I've only had a 1600 dp and love it. Nothing better than stock especially when you need parts or a quick fix. Easy tuning for you DIY guys.
Whatever you go with .... good luck

[big bus mike]

I run a 1955cc engine (76 stroke x 90.5mm bore) with dual 36mm Dellorto DRLA's, Stock heads (cleaned up) and a web 119 camshaft. I have had very good luck with it so far. On its first adventure it took me on a 1800 mile road trip and got around 25mpg. I was traveling with three other buses, two with identical 1776's with dual kadrons and one with a 1600sp. We cruised all day around 55-65mph and I was at half throttle more often than not. The bus with the 1600sp got the worst mileage out of all of us, although not by much.

I'm a big believer in overbuilding an engine and then de-tuning it to run forever. I'm also a fan of not pushing it as hard as it can / will go. Over-revving and engine will kill it in short order.

Anyone that offers a "kit" or a "turnkey" engine without asking you some questions are NOT where you want to buy your engine. You can custom tailor it to your particular needs and be much happier with the final result. The basic things you need to decide are as follows:

How much $$$ do you want to spend?
How fast do you want it to go?
How reliable do you want it to be?
What grade of fuel do you want to run? (higher compression = premium fuel)
What altitude are you going to be running the engine at?
What kind of driving are you using it for? (cross country trips, daily in-town driving, drag racing, off roading)
Where do you want your powerband to be? (low end torque, mid range, or top end power)

Most high HP "turnkey" engines are built for go-fast bugs, and while they will probably give you more power than a stock bus engine, it could be oh-so-much better...

If money isn't a concern, build a stroker engine. I prefer the 90.5mm pistons in almost any combination of crankshaft stroke. A 1904 (74mm crank x 90.5mm bore) is a good starter size, and is still small enough not to cause problems. That being said it's almost as expensive to build a 1955cc, a 2016cc, or a 2110cc engine.

If you don't have the $$$ to shell out on a stroker engine, a 1776cc engine with a mild cam, a set of dual Kadrons, and a quiet pack muffler works really REALLY well (with stock bus gearing). It's not a speed demon but you definately notice the power increase.


There's an old saying. Fast, Cheap, or Reliable... pick TWO.

[JoeyJoeJoe]

thanks a lot...that was a great response! let me answer these questions you presented and maybe you all can point me in the right direction...

How much $$$ do you want to spend? as much as it takes to make it perfect. i have my own business and can afford to do it right.

How fast do you want it to go? 70 for the interstate would be nice. i drive like a normal person.

How reliable do you want it to be? Very. This is very important...i will literally spend a fortune so i dont have to keep towing this thing back to the shop. It just looks too pitiful sitting up on the rollback tow truck...i cant handle it.

What grade of fuel do you want to run? (higher compression = premium fuel) I don't have a problem using premium...my daily driver takes premium also...'07 BMW 530i.

What altitude are you going to be running the engine at? Less than 2000 ft. Not up in the rockies or anything like that. I live in Ohio.

What kind of driving are you using it for? (cross country trips, daily in-town driving, drag racing, off roading) daily in town driving and a few weekend road trips per year.


Where do you want your powerband to be? (low end torque, mid range, or top end power): Not sure. It would be nice if i had decent off the line for driving in the city, but also could cruise on the highway.

does this help any?

[Andrew]

If money isn't a big concern, may want to check into doing a type IV conversion via Jake Raby. www.aircooledtechnology.com
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-Andrew

[60freak]

[Campy]

I've had dual port engines in my buses but I really like the 1600 cc single port engine (dog house setup) in my 1963 bus better. You could try a 1776cc engine with a 110 cam and 041 heads. I had one in the bus for over a year and it had good power with a stock carburetor.
Regarding gasoline, I use 89 octane-rated gasoline for my bus. The different grades of gasoline all have the exact same gasoline but with varying tiny amounts of chemicals dumped in them to make the gasoline burn milli-seconds more slowly to minimize knocking. If your buses engine doesn't make knocking sounds under normal use with 89 octane-rated fuel, there is no reason to buy 91 octane-rated fuel, unless you want to dump your money down a rat hole.

[CarlSpackler]

Welcome to thesamba, JoeyJoeJoe. I'm thinking through the possibilities now as well, although I'm not in a hurry since the original engine in my '66SC is running well right now. I'm considering the type IV conversion, mostly because I have a '78 Westy I built a new engine for last year and I have two spares to play with. The problem I have with the type IV conversion is lack of a heat option (other than an aux. heater). I'm right down I-71 from you in Mason, Ohio, and a daily driver without heat in Ohio isn't very practical.

I look forward to hearing what you decide and how it works out.
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'67 Micro Bus
'73 Thing
'91 Westy

[Riff Raff]

I completely concur with 60 Freak and Big Bus Mike.
I built a 2007 (78x90.5) for my bus last winter. de-tuned stroker isa good way to describe it. My goal was 100 hp and 110 ft lbs torque. I think I've exceeded that, although it has not been dyno'd.
We all know buses were grossly underpowered - even when new. With the latest generation of Chinese cranks, brazillian cases, etc being both affordable and decent quality, a 100 horse engine is neither expensive, nor problem prone.
If you are doing a stock resto, stick with a bone stock engine, if you are upgrading the engine, spend a few extra bucks and build an engine that will actually move the bus around at the same rate as surrounding traffic.
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[crofty]

[CarlSpackler]

Cutting what? The DTM shroud fits right in the engine compartment. Or, modifying stock upright cooling components ala 'The Type IV Upright Conversion Manual" changes nothing on the bus.
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'67 Micro Bus
'73 Thing
'91 Westy

[bill may]

he has a IRS conversion.. a 1600 with dual ports or single ports wont work well. how about a 90.5 X 74 or 78 crank? that will pull the IRS and the hills.
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[Andrew]

[crofty]

So you don't have to cut sheet metal or the apron to get it in there?
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[Andrew]

[CarlSpackler]

Another example. This is from aircooledtech.com, using the Joe Cali method.

http://www.aircooledtech.com/type4_upright_conversion/completed_type-4_conversion_photos/

Nate also has detailed instructions for the modification.
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'67 Micro Bus
'73 Thing
'91 Westy