Another No Start... [resolved]

[yeahsharvin]

This is my first post here, but I have been reading a lot of posts. Anyway, I was installing a GW Aux battery into my 84 Vanagon (non-camper). She was working just fine before I did anything. I installed the battery according to the instructions with out any problems (well so I thought). When I went to try and start the engine back up it wouldnt start. It cranks but wont start. This is my first VW ive owned so I dont know too much about it. I also replaced the fuel lines to the FI last week (maybe this could be an issue.??) but worked great after that. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

[MarkWard]

Welcome to the Samba. When you say no start, do you mean it cranks but does not catch or you try to crank it and nothing happens? Oops just reread your post. The obvious thing would be to undo the GW kit and see if you can get it to start again. I agree, if it ran fine after you did the hoses, that is probably not the problem now. For the engine to start it needs 3 things, Fuel, Spark, and compression.

[yeahsharvin]

Thanks, I un did all the GW kit, still doing the same thing, I'll check the fuel pump and pressure. Not sure where else to check. There it's a wire or two that I'm not sure if it was plugged in before our not.

[Ahwahnee]

[yeahsharvin]

Checked all the spark locations, all working well. Not sure if this is relevant or not but the OXS and Battery Lights are both on when I turn the ignition. Is it more likely that something came undone when I was trying to install the GW aux battery in the fuse box area? Or that something else is going on. Worked fine yesterday. I read on another thread that when the OXS and Battery lights both come its because the Voltage regulator on the Alternator is bad. Would this cause it not to start?

[Ahwahnee]

[yeahsharvin]

Thanks for you help guys! Ok so i hope this helps us diagnose. I checked the fuel injectors while cranking the engine and no fuel came out... does this mean its something with the fuel pump or ignition coil or electrical. Sorry I am such a beginner with this stuff, I really want to learn this stuff so I can help others if they run into problems.
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1984 Vanagon Transporter with Sun Roof
1st time owner, long time admirer

[Ahwahnee]

[yeahsharvin]

Thanks so much, Ill give it a look and try and trouble shoot
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1984 Vanagon Transporter with Sun Roof
1st time owner, long time admirer

[yeahsharvin]

I crawled under and checked the fuel pump. Nothing happened when I turned the key. Did this mean the pump is dead or could there be something else wrong? Is there another way to test the pump?
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1984 Vanagon Transporter with Sun Roof
1st time owner, long time admirer

[crazyvwvanman]

No, it may not mean the pump is dead since a lot of things can keep the pump from getting power. Also, the pump only runs for 1-2 second when the key is turned on so you may need to be down there feeling it with your fingers while someone else turns the key on.

What if anything did you touch in the engine compartment while installing the aux battery setup?

Mark

[yeahsharvin]

While installing the aux battery I didn't touch anything in the engine compartment. I really just delt with the fuse box. Is there something in there that could cause the fuel pump to stop working?
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1984 Vanagon Transporter with Sun Roof
1st time owner, long time admirer

[crazyvwvanman]

There is very little in the dash area that is used to run the engine. A wire goes from the key switch back to the ignition coil. From there it branches over to the engine relays in the black box. Since you said you were getting spark that wire from the key switch to the coil must be working. Every time the key is turned on the pump should run for 1-2 seconds. If that is not happening then I would check that the fuel pump relay is clicking on. It is in the black box above the coil. Open the box and put a finger on each of the 2 relays. Whenever the key is turned on both relays should click. Then 1-2 seconds later the relay on the right should click again. That is the fuel pump relay.

Mark

[Ahwahnee]

[yeahsharvin]

the relays dont seem to be clicking, I will try to replace them today. The ones I pulled out were 40a relays though.
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1984 Vanagon Transporter with Sun Roof
1st time owner, long time admirer

[simd0ggie]

See the other black box in that picture?

Open it up. Big red wire going to a bolt. Should have 12V at that bolt to ground when key is on. That is the power for all the stuff back there, including the relays you are checking.

If you are not getting 12V there, then your isolator is probably wired wrong or one of your wires never got hooked back up..
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-Matt
'85 Westfalia w/EJ25, '14 Tiguan R-Line 4 Motion

"There are two possible outcomes: if the result confirms the hypothesis, then you've made a measurement. If the result is contrary to the hypothesis, then you've made a discovery.”

[crazyvwvanman]

If the relays don't click it is probably because of some other problem, not the relays themselves.

Yes, they are rated at 40 amps but they only carry less than 10 in this use. For testing you can use generic 30 amp Bosch type.

Actually, one of the relays clicks first and then the other so quickly that you can't tell there is a delay between them. So for this year and a few others you can swap the 2 relays side to side and check for clicking again. Mark which is which first.

At the ignition coil a black wire feeds power from the key switch to the coil and a black/white wire takes that power from there to the left most relay to turn on the relay. That is where you need to check things. That black wire connection and the black/white wire connections. Those are what make the main relay click on.

Mark

[yeahsharvin]

uggh, replaced both relays. They still dont click, im guessing this has something to do with wiring to the relays although I am not sure what to look for. Tested my battery as well and it has 12.7V.
_________________
1984 Vanagon Transporter with Sun Roof
1st time owner, long time admirer

[crazyvwvanman]

At the ignition coil a black wire feeds power from the key switch to the coil and a black/white wire takes that power from there to the left most relay to turn on the relay. That is where you need to check things. That black wire connection and the black/white wire connections. Those are what make the main relay click on. Check for voltage there and make sure the connections are clean and tight.

Mark

[simd0ggie]

Start with what changed. Other wires usually don't just up and go bad for no reason. You made a change, then the starting changed. Retrace your steps make sure all the wires were re-connected properly. Is the starter turning?
_________________
-Matt
'85 Westfalia w/EJ25, '14 Tiguan R-Line 4 Motion

"There are two possible outcomes: if the result confirms the hypothesis, then you've made a measurement. If the result is contrary to the hypothesis, then you've made a discovery.”