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Tcash
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Joined: July 20, 2011
Posts: 12843
Location: San Jose, California, USA
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 Posted: Wed Jul 09, 2014 4:50 pm Post subject: Relocating Temp. Sensor, TS2, TSII |
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Relocating Temp. Sensor, TS2, TSII
| busdaddy wrote: |
| Yes that's the TS2, if you are using carbs you don't need it, if using FI move it to that hole beside the intake flange (enlarge to 10X1.0mm) as the 75 position was a pain to access. |
http://germansupply.com/home/customer/search.php?substring=TEMP+SENSOR |
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aeromech
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Joined: January 24, 2006
Posts: 17753
Location: San Diego, California
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| Posted: Wed Jul 09, 2014 6:25 pm Post subject: |
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Yep. Just getting ready to do that. Thanks
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Wildthings
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| Posted: Wed Jul 09, 2014 10:31 pm Post subject: |
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| IMO, if you are trying to do this with the engine installed, it is easier to locate the sender next to the #4 intake instead of the #3 one. The function is the same. |
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aeromech
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Location: San Diego, California
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| Posted: Thu Jul 10, 2014 6:29 am Post subject: |
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In my case the engine is removed. I guess I'll need to cut a hole in the engine tin.
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busdaddy
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Joined: February 12, 2004
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Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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| Posted: Thu Jul 10, 2014 6:40 am Post subject: |
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No need to cut anything, the later TS2 location replaces one of the tin hold down screws beside the #3 intake manifold port.
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germansupplyscott
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Joined: May 22, 2004
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Location: toronto
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| Posted: Thu Jul 10, 2014 6:48 am Post subject: |
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if you happen to have AMC cylinder heads on both sides of the engine you can put the sensor on #2 by using an small extension wire. I've seen engines where the sender was stuck badly in the #3 location and could not be removed easily. the AMC heads are the same left and right so the sensor hole moves over to #2 when the head is on the right side. it can be a quick fix because tapping a damaged temp sensor hole with the engine in place is very difficult. not impossible but nearly.
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aeromech
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Joined: January 24, 2006
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Location: San Diego, California
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| Posted: Thu Jul 10, 2014 7:47 am Post subject: |
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I have a very nice Irwin tap and die set but it did not contain the required 10 X 1.0 tap that the sensor requires so I had to purchase one just for this job.
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airkooledchris
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Joined: January 25, 2005
Posts: 2722
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| Posted: Thu Jul 10, 2014 9:38 am Post subject: Re: Relocating Temp. Sensor, TS2, TSII |
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Why relocate it? Just if your original location is trashed?
I have AMC heads and did have to move mine over to the #2 side, but the motor is out now and I had simply planned to re-tap the stock location if possible and put it back there.
Plus I have a small pile of those extensions for the TS to slow the warmup time, so ideally i'll seat that in well and just swap out the sensor when needed without removing the extension. |
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Wildthings
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| Posted: Thu Jul 10, 2014 9:48 am Post subject: Re: Relocating Temp. Sensor, TS2, TSII |
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| airkooledchris wrote: |
| Why relocate it? Just if your original location is trashed? |
Have you ever tried to access the TSII sensor in the original early location under the #3 intake runner? Not saying it is not possible, but if I had an engine with a sensor in that location and it went bad, I would not bother with trying to swap it out but would automatically do the relocate to the more accessible later location. |
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rustybutterknife
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Joined: June 06, 2003
Posts: 488
Location: Georgetown, IN
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| Posted: Thu Jul 10, 2014 9:52 am Post subject: |
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| aeromech wrote: |
| I have a very nice Irwin tap and die set but it did not contain the required 10 X 1.0 tap that the sensor requires so I had to purchase one just for this job. |
where'd you end up getting that tap from? I tried McMaster-carr a year or so and ended up giving up the search. and, of coarse local search turned up nothing.
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Wildthings
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| Posted: Thu Jul 10, 2014 10:03 am Post subject: |
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| rustybutterknife wrote: |
| aeromech wrote: |
| I have a very nice Irwin tap and die set but it did not contain the required 10 X 1.0 tap that the sensor requires so I had to purchase one just for this job. |
where'd you end up getting that tap from? I tried McMaster-carr a year or so and ended up giving up the search. and, of coarse local search turned up nothing. |
I just had my local NAPA order one for me. If you have a Fastenal nearby they can get you one as well. I suspect even your local hardware store can get you one out of their catalogs or you could try Amazon. Lots of sources out there.  |
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aeromech
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Joined: January 24, 2006
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Location: San Diego, California
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| Posted: Thu Jul 10, 2014 10:19 am Post subject: |
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| rustybutterknife wrote: |
| aeromech wrote: |
| I have a very nice Irwin tap and die set but it did not contain the required 10 X 1.0 tap that the sensor requires so I had to purchase one just for this job. |
where'd you end up getting that tap from? I tried McMaster-carr a year or so and ended up giving up the search. and, of coarse local search turned up nothing. |
Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006G4MUC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I got the bottoming tap because I thought I was going to do a different mounting location that what's been talked about here.
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BAe146
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VW Type 2 1971 (3 ea.) 1978, 1969
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rustybutterknife
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Location: Georgetown, IN
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| Posted: Thu Jul 10, 2014 10:31 am Post subject: |
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| Wildthings wrote: |
| rustybutterknife wrote: |
| aeromech wrote: |
| I have a very nice Irwin tap and die set but it did not contain the required 10 X 1.0 tap that the sensor requires so I had to purchase one just for this job. |
where'd you end up getting that tap from? I tried McMaster-carr a year or so and ended up giving up the search. and, of coarse local search turned up nothing. |
I just had my local NAPA order one for me. If you have a Fastenal nearby they can get you one as well. I suspect even your local hardware store can get you one out of their catalogs or you could try Amazon. Lots of sources out there. |
didn't realize that they were that easy to get. The dood at local hardware store "bob's ace hardware" scratched his butt and said "I dunno". Had to take off work to get there during the 3 hrs they were open (the middle hour was lunch and they were closed so I had to wait.) I finally got pissed and gave up. After that adventure I had to convince myself that such a tap and die must not exist so that I could cope with the feelings I was having and move on with my life.
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What, they don't sell purple locktite? Just mix the red and the blue together. |
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aeromech
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Joined: January 24, 2006
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Location: San Diego, California
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| Posted: Thu Jul 10, 2014 10:43 am Post subject: |
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That's a great reason why I buy most of my purchases online and just wait for the shipping. I don't have the time to screw around driving all over town for a $6 item.
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Lead Mechanic: San Diego Air and Space Museum
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tootype2crazy
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aeromech
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| Posted: Thu Jul 10, 2014 6:45 pm Post subject: |
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Okay, I just did this job. The upper cylinder tin didn't line up well with the hole.
So I trimmed it back
Then I chose a drill size. Turns out the table said to use a 9.1mm drill. The one I used was slightly smaller than 9.1 but was actually a little too large when I made the hole.
It didn't seem like the threads cut deep enough
The TSII went in fine but I wouldn't want to try and torque it very much.
So, if I was to do this again I'd chose a drill that's a bit smaller than the one I used.
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Lead Mechanic: San Diego Air and Space Museum
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Licensed Pilot (Single engine Land)
Boeing 727,737-200-300-400,757,767
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BAe146
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VW Type 2 1971 (3 ea.) 1978, 1969
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raygreenwood
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Location: Oklahoma City
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| Posted: Thu Jul 10, 2014 6:55 pm Post subject: |
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Aeromech....the trick with shallow holes like that one...and also when re-tapping exhaust manifold studs in type 4 heads....I.e.....shallow blind hole with threads to the bottom....and you will hate this but its a nice tool set......
Is to buy two bottoming taps and cut or grind one off just above the taper. Tap the first one are far as it will go and then use the shortened one to cut full threads. Ray |
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aeromech
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| Posted: Thu Jul 10, 2014 6:57 pm Post subject: |
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I felt like the tap was fine but the hole was drilled on the large side.
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Lead Mechanic: San Diego Air and Space Museum
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Licensed Pilot (Single engine Land)
Boeing 727,737-200-300-400,757,767
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BAe146
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VW Type 2 1971 (3 ea.) 1978, 1969
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Capable of leaping tall buildings in a single bound |
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germansupplyscott
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Location: toronto
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| Posted: Thu Jul 10, 2014 7:56 pm Post subject: |
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| aeromech wrote: |
| I felt like the tap was fine but the hole was drilled on the large side. |
that's a good job you've done. someone asked about about why move the hole for the sensor - it's not at all uncommon for the existing original hole to be trashed. there are corrosion issues with the aluminum head and ferrous metal sensor and on a bus that's been ignored the sensor can be impossible to remove without damaging either it or the threads.
i don't know what table you used but there's a very simple rule for drill sizes with metric threads. subtract the pitch from the thread diameter and you get the drill size. so for your example:
m10 x 1.0
10-1=9
you use a 9mm pilot hole for an m10 x 1.0 tap size.
m6 x 1.0 uses, obviously, a 5mm pilot hole.
it's really that simple and you never need a table for sizing metric tap holes. one of the many reasons the metric system is easier to use than inch system.
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SGKent 
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| Posted: Thu Jul 10, 2014 8:22 pm Post subject: |
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| germansupplyscott wrote: |
| aeromech wrote: |
| I felt like the tap was fine but the hole was drilled on the large side. |
that's a good job you've done. someone asked about about why move the hole for the sensor - it's not at all uncommon for the existing original hole to be trashed. there are corrosion issues with the aluminum head and ferrous metal sensor and on a bus that's been ignored the sensor can be impossible to remove without damaging either it or the threads.
i don't know what table you used but there's a very simple rule for drill sizes with metric threads. subtract the pitch from the thread diameter and you get the drill size. so for your example:
m10 x 1.0
neat trick = easier than carrying around a chart.
10-1=9
you use a 9mm pilot hole for an m10 x 1.0 tap size.
m6 x 1.0 uses, obviously, a 5mm pilot hole.
it's really that simple and you never need a table for sizing metric tap holes. one of the many reasons the metric system is easier to use than inch system. |
Gary - it is a great job. You do great work.
When one puts the tin on once in awhile it gets caught under the phenolic or runner plate. We've had a couple threads here where that happened. That hole may line up better when all the tin is adjusted. Be sure to use a little anti-seize on the sensor threads before you button it back up. 
Last edited by SGKent on Thu Jul 10, 2014 8:24 pm; edited 2 times in total |
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