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the north wind
Samba Member
Joined: August 23, 2007
Posts: 102
Location: Portland, OR
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 Posted: Wed Oct 22, 2014 7:23 pm Post subject: Newbie carb question... |
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I'm working on cleaning up the 73 square I got recently. It runs really well once it warmed up, but pretty poorly when it is cold. Strangely it starts well when cold, and has a hard time start once it is warmed up. Anyway, my question is about the carbs. The FI has been replaced with some dual carb set up, which looks similar to this :
EDIT : Not my engine, but a similar set up.
The air box connection in the lower right is missing. How big of an issue is this? I'm taking it in to get the windshield replaced tomorrow at Always Vdub, and I'm guessing they will have the part to connect it.
The other question is the electrical tabs on the front of the carbs. Neither carbs are currently hooked up to anything, but it looks like there is a wire back in there that should connect to them and the distributor. Is this correct? If so, what does this wiring do, and where do I connect it to the distributor?
Thanks! I'm really excited about this car. I'll make a more thorough "rejuvenation" thread before long. It needs a lot of work, but the body is pretty straight, and low rust, other than the floor pans, which are super shitty and next on the list of work to be done.
Also, what carbs are those, and what year are they off of? The Bentley for my year obviously does not talk about this PO modification.
Last edited by the north wind on Thu Oct 23, 2014 12:49 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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the north wind
Samba Member
Joined: August 23, 2007
Posts: 102
Location: Portland, OR
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| Posted: Wed Oct 22, 2014 7:24 pm Post subject: |
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| Oh, and I'm missing the hole cover to the box in towards the rear of the car from the fan shroud, as in the previous picture. Issue or non-issue? |
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hoss
Samba Member
Joined: May 01, 2003
Posts: 789
Location: San Jose, CA
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| Posted: Wed Oct 22, 2014 10:49 pm Post subject: |
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Can you post a picture? I would really help show what you are talking about.
If the PO installed the carbs in the photo, those are stock Type 3 Solex carbs starting in '64. Should be plenty information on how to tune them.
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'54 Kombi | '57 356 Coupe | '57 Samba | '62 Notchback | '63 Beetle | '66 Pigalle Sunroof Squareback |
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the north wind
Samba Member
Joined: August 23, 2007
Posts: 102
Location: Portland, OR
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| Posted: Wed Oct 22, 2014 11:05 pm Post subject: |
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| hoss wrote: |
Can you post a picture? I would really help show what you are talking about.
If the PO installed the carbs in the photo, those are stock Type 3 Solex carbs starting in '64. Should be plenty information on how to tune them. |
I'll take some pictures tomorrow morning. The carbs look the same to me, with the same linkage and air intake. Thanks for the info! |
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the north wind
Samba Member
Joined: August 23, 2007
Posts: 102
Location: Portland, OR
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| Posted: Thu Oct 23, 2014 8:37 am Post subject: |
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Here you can see the missing tube between the air filter on the carbs and the body vent thing.
Close up of the same.
These are the carbs on there now. Passenger side
Drivers side carb
What's this electrical connection at the base of the distributor?
Le random wire, which I have no idea where it is supposed to go.
Last edited by the north wind on Thu Oct 23, 2014 12:58 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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the north wind
Samba Member
Joined: August 23, 2007
Posts: 102
Location: Portland, OR
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| Posted: Thu Oct 23, 2014 11:17 am Post subject: |
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Talked to the mechanic at the shop today, and got those questions sorted out.
Tabs on the carb are obviously for the choke, and that will be easy for me to re-wire, and explains why it idles high after it is warmed up.
He didn't have the boot for the carb to fresh air thing, but I'm sure I can figure something out there.
Hole on the front of the fan thing he said was no big deal.
The big deal however, is that the engine block is cracked and "pissing oil", and they still couldn't get the window seated properly. So, looks like I am in the market for a new engine block or engine. I knew this was going to be a bigger project than I expected. Blargh! |
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W1K1
Samba Member
Joined: March 04, 2004
Posts: 5288
Location: Southern AB
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| Posted: Thu Oct 23, 2014 11:46 am Post subject: |
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go to your local hardware store and buy a 2" repair clamp. drill out the rivets on the shield section, just use the clamps and the rubber tube.
2.5" exhaust tubing squeezed gently in the vice until it's oval can bridge the gap between the intake and the body.
if you wanna get purdy powder coat it with lots of metal flake 
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http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/jim_martin_engine_build.php
1973 super
1965 squareback 1500E
1971 bay window westy- subi swap |
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Donnie strickland
Samba Member
Joined: December 21, 2009
Posts: 2403
Location: Moody, AL
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| Posted: Thu Oct 23, 2014 11:51 am Post subject: |
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| the north wind wrote: |
Talked to the mechanic at the shop today, and got those questions sorted out.
Tabs on the carb are obviously for the choke, and that will be easy for me to re-wire, and explains why it idles high after it is warmed up. |
Your chokes are 6 volt, which explains why they're disconnected. Idling high after warmed up isn't related to the chokes anyway, it's a carb adjustment.
| the north wind wrote: |
| He didn't have the boot for the carb to fresh air thing, but I'm sure I can figure something out there. |
ISP West has it. It keeps your engine from sucking in hot air.
| the north wind wrote: |
| Hole on the front of the fan thing he said was no big deal. |
You mean the hole in the back of the fan housing? You'll want to get a bolt in there -- there was a recent post about this:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=609113
| the north wind wrote: |
| The big deal however, is that the engine block is cracked and "pissing oil", and they still couldn't get the window seated properly. So, looks like I am in the market for a new engine block or engine. I knew this was going to be a bigger project than I expected. Blargh! |
The windshield can be a little tricky, but it's not too difficult. The engine, however, is a different matter. Get a second opinion, and/or check it out yourself to be sure. Chin up!
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71 Elm Green FI A/T Squareback |
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eyetzr 
Samba Member
Joined: October 09, 2013
Posts: 1469
Location: Toronto, Ontario. Canada
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| Posted: Thu Oct 23, 2014 12:12 pm Post subject: |
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Your first picture shows a tube on the fan housing. Either put it back on put the bolt back on. Get rid of the fuel filter on the motor, put it under the tank. Call the local windshield guys & remove & reinstall the window. Give the guy cash. 
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I think he meant "rare", as in "not well-done" |
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the north wind
Samba Member
Joined: August 23, 2007
Posts: 102
Location: Portland, OR
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| Posted: Thu Oct 23, 2014 12:49 pm Post subject: |
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| eyetzr wrote: |
| Your first picture shows a tube on the fan housing. Either put it back on put the bolt back on. Get rid of the fuel filter on the motor, put it under the tank. Call the local windshield guys & remove & reinstall the window. Give the guy cash. |
The first pic is not mine, just the closest I could find on the gallery to my set-up. It was dark and raining like crazy. The next pics are the ones I took myself.
The first shop blamed the second shop for the wrong sized windshield, and the second shop blamed the first for putting the seal on off center. |
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the north wind
Samba Member
Joined: August 23, 2007
Posts: 102
Location: Portland, OR
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| Posted: Thu Oct 23, 2014 1:10 pm Post subject: |
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| Donnie strickland wrote: |
| the north wind wrote: |
Talked to the mechanic at the shop today, and got those questions sorted out.
Tabs on the carb are obviously for the choke, and that will be easy for me to re-wire, and explains why it idles high after it is warmed up. |
Your chokes are 6 volt, which explains why they're disconnected. Idling high after warmed up isn't related to the chokes anyway, it's a carb adjustment.
- So, would it not work to hook them up to the coil then?
| the north wind wrote: |
| He didn't have the boot for the carb to fresh air thing, but I'm sure I can figure something out there. |
ISP West has it. It keeps your engine from sucking in hot air.
Cool, i'll check them out. I have some old heater hoses from the bus, which I think I can probably jury-rig to work for now.
| the north wind wrote: |
| Hole on the front of the fan thing he said was no big deal. |
You mean the hole in the back of the fan housing? You'll want to get a bolt in there -- there was a recent post about this:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=609113
I was asking about the hole in the black box, and hadn't noticed the missing bolt. Thanks!
| the north wind wrote: |
| The big deal however, is that the engine block is cracked and "pissing oil", and they still couldn't get the window seated properly. So, looks like I am in the market for a new engine block or engine. I knew this was going to be a bigger project than I expected. Blargh! |
Yeah, I guess, since two shops weren't able to do it. The engine is a bummer, but not insurmountable. We replaced the engine on our bus, and I've removed and re-installed it a few more times. Just a bummer, as I was hoping to be able to drive the square during the winter. Guess it's back to riding the bike!
The windshield can be a little tricky, but it's not too difficult. The engine, however, is a different matter. Get a second opinion, and/or check it out yourself to be sure. Chin up! |
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eyetzr
Samba Member
Joined: October 09, 2013
Posts: 1469
Location: Toronto, Ontario. Canada
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| Posted: Thu Oct 23, 2014 1:11 pm Post subject: |
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The bolt that holds that tube on goes into the oil/ breather tower. Need to put a bolt in there, also holds the fan housing together.
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I think he meant "rare", as in "not well-done" |
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Donnie strickland
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Joined: December 21, 2009
Posts: 2403
Location: Moody, AL
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