Syncro Transmission oil flinger

[Doka Todd]

As I get ready to complete my AAZ swap, I got a good price on a G60/VR6/WBX clutch set up. In the process of pulling the Bell housing to clearance it for the clutch assembly, I found a whole bunch of fuzz on the magnetic drain plug. Stuck my finger in to feel what felt like a curved piece of metal and my heart sank. I assumed the worst, turned out the oil flinger had disintegrated and was floating around inside. Explains the wet bell housing, I thought it was from the rear main on the engine as that was wet as well.

The housing is damaged but I believe I can repair it. What I need is a new flinger, or accurate dimensions of a good one to recreate it. Any one have any suggestions?

[1vw4x4]

If this is a standard bell housing, just find a good used replacement.
You'll save yourself a lot of headache.
You better check your pilot bearing. Most of these fail becasue the pilot bear is all ripped up.

[Doka Todd]

[1vw4x4]

The slinger is not really a slinger. It does not turn. It is hard mounted in
the bell housing. How it works is the motion the the shaft causes the
gear lube to turn with the shaft. The inside of the "slinger" has threads cut
into it that push the lube back into the transaxle. This just helps the seal
not be overwhelmed. Honestly, I worked with the best of the best of machinist for 21 year.
They would have even bark at this project, cutting special threads on the inside of a thin sleeve. LIke I said find another bellhousing.

[zeohsix]

You should be able to find a new oil slinger and sleeve the bell housing for a repair. This slinger is a common part while I don't have any spare parts I would think someone does. I take it that the bore for the oil seal is still in decent condition so you can locate center of the bell housing off the seal bore.
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I'm Cheap! I'll build that Syncro Westy myself and save money but, my labor is "FREE" especially if I ever go to sell it! One thing is I will know the quality of the parts and labor that went into the build and rest better when I'm actually driving said Westy down the road!

[Doka Todd]

That's exactly right, there should be enough of the bore true enough to pick up on for the repair. The slinger part is not offered as a replacement item by Vw, it's part of the bell housing and unavailable separately. I haven't been able to find anything showing it available from anyone after market.

I agree it's not truly a slinger, but does serve a purpose. I have read accounts of people making replacements with a smooth bore and had it work just fine.

[Doka Todd]

Well I got the bell housing off and cleaned up. I was pleasantly surprised to find that what I thought was damage to the bore of the housing was damage to the flinger piece that was left inside. the housing turns out to be completely undamaged, except where the last guy scratched the bore changing the seal

I also found out that the flinger is available as a replacement part, but only in South Africa.

I have enough of the piece left that I can build another one, but I am really hoping someone could tell me the bore size of the flinger itself.

I may change it up a bit and design some sort of retention into the part while I'm at it, right now I'm thinking a simple circlip groove on the inside.

[crazyvwvanman]

If you get hard up for one I can probably help you out from my stack of old bell housings.

Mark

[1vw4x4]

Actually, The part your calling a slinger has been missing from more
than one transaxle I've taken apart. These seem to be working fine
with little if any leaking from the front seal. I'll bet that its not that critical.
Those who have made these probably could butcher the job and hardly
know if its functioning or not.

[Gnarlodious]

[IdahoDoug]

Makes me wonder if the slinger was from a day when the materials rubber seals were made of didn't last long. Perhaps you chose strong seal pressure and high seal lip wear that made constant replacement neccessary, or you chose weak seal pressure and this slinger component. But today, perhaps the newer rubber compounds and better oil additives make for a long seal life unaided by such a component. Meaning in today's world, a modern seal can both last long and not leak even with oil pilled up against it. Interesting.
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1987 2WD Wolfsburg Vanagon Weekender "Mango", two fully locked 80 Series LandCruisers. 2017 Subaru Outback boxer. 1990 Audi 90 Quattro 20V with rear locking differential, 1990 burgundy parts Vanagon. 1984 Porsche 944, 1993 Toyota LandCruiser, 2002 BMW 325iX, 1982 Toyota Sunrader

[?Waldo?]

While I think that a seal will be less likely to leak with the slinger intact and if it does leak, will leak less, I don't think it's strictly necessary. It is not like the seal is under pressure. I think the real issues come from when the slinger is loose and gets thrown against the seal.
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I am a high-functioning autistic into VW diesels and Vanagons along with other things that are unrelated to this site.

[Gnarlodious]

The impression I get is that the Krauts designed the seal for worst-case driving scenarios. Overfilled oil, mid-summer Sahara desert expedition with overheated oil like what happens with extended slow driving. For any normal road-tripping the seal works fine without the rifles. I took a midsummer trip from Albuquerque to Seattle last year with long hot driving, and the seal did not leak.

I should explain that I have a diesel so the bellhousing is (or was at that time) hard to find. If yours is a gas engine you have no reason to not put on a good original bellhousing.
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Vanagon ’83 diesel AAZ w/Giles injection, 5spd 4.57R&P+TBD and a '78 diesel Rabbit

[Wildthings]

The seals fit quite loose on the shaft, much looser than most other shaft seals, I have always found this to be a bit odd. Maybe a speedi-sleeve added to the shaft would tighten the seal up to give a slightly tighter fit and reduce the chance of a leak.

I agree the "slinger" could be a left over from the days of lower quality rubber seals, or even from the days of leather lipped seals. Remember that on a Type 1 engine, VW didn't feel a seal was necessary on the pulley end of the crankshaft.

[Doka Todd]

[crazyvwvanman]

I'm not a machinist but I measured several using digital calipers. The inside diameters were about 22.5 mm.
The protrusions varied.
14 mm for gas boxer
15 mm for 5 cyl
12 mm for diesel

Mark

[Doka Todd]

that's awsome, thanks so much!! One thing I forgot to ask was if the sprial inside was left hand or right hand. If it was a nut would you thread it in righty tighty or lefty tighty?

[IdahoDoug]

Heh, gave me a chuckle. My mechanic buddy is fond of constantly advising people "remember, it's lefty tighty, righty loosey..." just to be a mild irritant. Generally this is delivered to fellow experienced techs for a laugh, or to cause a fake debate. Anyhow, carry on...

DougM
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1987 2WD Wolfsburg Vanagon Weekender "Mango", two fully locked 80 Series LandCruisers. 2017 Subaru Outback boxer. 1990 Audi 90 Quattro 20V with rear locking differential, 1990 burgundy parts Vanagon. 1984 Porsche 944, 1993 Toyota LandCruiser, 2002 BMW 325iX, 1982 Toyota Sunrader

[Wildthings]

[crazyvwvanman]

Yes, it is right hand.

Mark