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Flywheel seal/rear main seal installer tool ?
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Texasbikers
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 04, 2013 7:08 am    Post subject: Flywheel seal/rear main seal installer tool ? Reply with quote

I'm replacing the rear main seal/flywheel seal and on my 71 bug, In looking in the service manual and in forum posts, I see there is a tool to do this.

I looked at Jbugs, the tool is $35 part# 7036
CIP1 $30 part# ACC-C10-7070
SoCal Imports $8 part #000118

Jbugs and Cip1 seem to be a big washer and bolt & nut
SoCal's looks like just a big washer....
In the Service manual, the pic looks like Washer, nut and bolt.

I wouldn't be asking if the price was not so different, for a proper install, do I need the Jugs/Cip1 tool or just the big washer from SoCal ?

Thanks
PB in Nashville
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Tim Donahoe
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 04, 2013 8:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have the more expensive unit; it has the big washer, the bolt, etc. You screw in the bolt until it stops. Then your seal will be seated about 1/8 to 1/4 inch inside of flush. Grease the seal edges with white grease, first. Also, oil the flywheel ridge where it contacts the seal (for start-up) and the flywheel's interior "O" ring.

I can only assume that the cheaper one that is a washer only, uses the gland nut to press the seal in.

The installer prevents damage to the seal while installing. When you pound with a board, you can't get the seal in past flush. If you use some other means of putting the seal in, you run the risk (as a novice) of cracking the seal on the inside where you can't see the crack. A crack will cause a leak.

Fact of the matter is, unless you've installed a number of flywheel seals, using the board-pounding-with-a-hammer method, an installer will prevent you from having to pull the engine again to replace the seal again. This happened to me.

Tim
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Texasbikers
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 04, 2013 9:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi, thanks for the info. This is my first time ever doing this, I'm buying the tool. Not worth saving a few bucks and have to redo it...
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Randy in Maine
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 04, 2013 10:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

How is your crankshaft endplay?
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Tim Donahoe
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 04, 2013 12:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Randy makes a good point. Are you replacing the flywheel? Or just replacing the flywheel seal and "O" ring?

Since you're there, you may as well check the play, assuming you're just changing seals. But if you're installing a different flywheel, you really should check the play.

Tim
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Randy in Maine
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 04, 2013 1:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If I were new at this, I would load up the engine and take it to someone that not only knows how to check the endplay (not a big deal) but might actaually have the shims on hand to get the endply to the correct specifications.

Then let them install the front main seal as you watch and help.
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Texasbikers
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 04, 2013 3:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi, the front main seal is leaking so Im replacing it and the o-ring. I will be using the same flywheel. I'm mechanical, I'll check the end play as well. This is my first Bug and I'm really digging how easy it is compared to my 64 Ford Galaxie with a 390 Big Block.

I'm going to write up all I have planned to do over a week off around thanks giving tonight, I'll title it, "Thanksgiving week bug repairs"...

Thanks Patrick
PS... I am searching for someone experienced to help out.
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Tim Donahoe
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 4:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another heads up: if you get the screw-in installer tool, be sure to point the recessessed cup toward the flywheel. If you don't the seal installer will stop completely--even before the seal is flush.

Tim
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Brian
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 4:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used my handy 2x4 and a hammer for the main seal.
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Tim Donahoe
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 4:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Brian, I tried that method and broke the seal from the inside (where you couldn't see it).

So, I bought the $29.00 (that's what they cost a while back) unit. when you screw it in, it pushes the seal in past flush--a good 1/8th inch.

I like it Very Happy

Tim
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HRVW
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 4:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Eh? Most of the time the old seal will b HARD. Pry out carefully and REVERSE the old seal to tap in the NEW seal. Just keep tapping in a circular motion till the seal bottoms out.
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Brian
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 4:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

that is my method for rear wheel bearings ^
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Her74buggy
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 4:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Big socket with the old seal reversed on it on mine Rolling Eyes
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