brake problem on 67 transporter

[AngelBoy]

Ok.....
My daily driver sat for about a month while I was working on another bus.
When I went to drive it; the brakes went darn near to the floor. After further inspection, I saw that the right front (lower) wheel cylinder was leaking badly.
Bought new wheel cylinder, cleaned up the mess in the wheel with brake cleaner, replaced bad cylinder added brake fluid to the master cylinder, bled all the brakes. Now the brake peddle goes about 70% of the way to the floor before any minimal braking action occurs.
At first you could hear a "click" in the master cylinder at full travel of the brake peddle. Kind of like to pieces of metal clicking together. I'm thinking that the piston is at the end of it's travel and hitting something.
I'm at my wits end. Should I remove the master cylinder and re-bleed it like before I installed it?
All I know is that I have brakes that don't stop for snot.

[Abscate]

You still have air in the system. Keep bleeding.

Bleed order is RR, LR, RF, LF.
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[Pacmanfever]

67 is a little different with the dual circuit master cylinder. Normally the advice is to bleed brakes from the farthest wheel cylinder first, but in the case of the dual circuit, you need to bleed the fronts first because that impacts the function of the rears based on the master cylinder design.

We've got a 67 and bleed the fronts first, with great results. Is that the same sequence you used?

Correct me if I'm wrong; as I'm fairly new to buses too. That's just based upon post I'd read here where others where struggling with bleeding dual circuit master cylinders.

[AngelBoy]

I did bleed the fronts first and then the backs a little while ago. Brakes work better now. I think that right front needs both cylinders replaced and the shoes too. It definitely is pulling to the left and the only cool brake after I drove it around was the right front. That's the wheel that was totally saturated in brake fluid. I thought brake spray would clean it, but I suppose it's in the lining and not about to come out just for a little chemical action.

Should have replaced both cylinders on that right front and the shoes I guess I was trying to save $30 bucks. Not worth the savings.

I'm pretty sure there is still some air in the front circuit. I was thinking it was leaking around the little bleeder hose, but that was probably wishful thinking.

[AngelBoy]

One more thing....
Normally a master for a 67 bus is about $300.00, but you can get them from cip1.com for about $80.00.
Might be part of the problem too! Probably a Chinese part. I put it in about a year ago, and so far it's worked fine.

Thanks for all your help.

[Z]

I like to replace/rebuild all the wheel cylinders on an axle...sucks to have to do 4 on the front of a bus, but...

Definitely bleed FR, FL, RR, RL, and you may have to go around a couple times. Try elevating the front of the bus a bit when you bleed - it's not in any manual I've seen, but I saw it suggested a long time ago, and it did the trick for me when i replaced my complete system and couldn't get them to bleed all the way.

[Eric&Barb]

Also adjust brake shoe adjusting stars as tight as possible before trying to bleed. When done bleeding adjust them for slight drag.
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[Campy]

The reason for replacing all four wheel cylinders is that the one new wheel cylinder will normally make a better seal than the other used ones, thus, putting more pressure on the remaining used wheel cylinders, which can cause the weakest one to leak brake fluid.
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[Eric&Barb]

[thenastyfasty]

The only true way to clean shoes that have been soaked in brake fluid is to pour lighter fluid all over them, then set them on fire. Let them burn out and then refit
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92 polo coupe
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[Z]

[Eric&Barb]

Brake-Kleen works well for cleaning them. Just do not get that stuff on your skin or enjoy super dry cracking skin. Plus it eats up rubber and paint. So remove the shoes, hang them up over some newspaper and spray them down twice real well.
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[Campy]

The relined brake shoes that I have bought at a parts store/garage over the last 28 years have always worked fine. When I was rebuilding my buses brake system one year ago, they could no longer get the relined brake shoes and sold me new front and rear sets of Chinese brake shoes. The brakes are now only about 70 percent as effective as they were over the years when using the relined brake shoes. Has anybody else had this problem with the new (not relined) Chinese brake shoes?
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