My first engine removal...now a question

[Hokie87]

I just pulled the engine in my 66 kombi in order to get to the fuel tank (leaks) and sender (broken).

After removing the engine, I noticed ground areas and metal shavings in the transmission bell housing. The engine flywheel looks fine. Could this be from when the PO converted to 12 volts or does it look like a problem? If its a problem, thoughts on cause/solution?

I wasn't having engine or transmission problems other than a vibration that went away when the clutch pedal was depressed.

Transmission bell housing:

Engine fly wheel:

[cru62]

Those shiny spots are definitely where the case was clearanced. They are not a concern.

The vibration which went away when the clutch was depressed is most likely due to a poorly dynamically balanced clutch disc. They are relatively cheap. Maybe you could replace the one you took out with a quality brand disc and see if that solves your issue?

The last engine I built had the entire rotating assembly balanced as a unit by Gene Berg. Yes, everything, crank, rods, pistons, pulley, flywheel AND clutch disc. The disc was balanced seperately from the other parts because everytime the clutch is disengaged and then reengaged the disc is in a different orientation to the rest of the assembly and if it wasn't balanced that way it would make things even worse. It wasn't exactly cheap. But that engine was the smoothest idling and running one I have ever had.
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"My biggest worry is that when I die, my wife will sell all my parts for what I told her I paid for them"-Jon

Jokes about German sausage are the wurst.

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[Clara]

That bell housing looks kinda glistening, like there is fluid on there. It should be dry. Is the engine leaking oil , or the tranny leaking gear oil?
Might be time to replace the main seal and oil cooler seals.
Or the tranny rear seal, depending on what is leaking.

Was the vibration even when stationary?

[flemcadiddlehopper]

[Hokie87]

It is shiny, but no, I haven't cleaned out anything yet. The trans and engine both leak. My plan was to replace all seals and gaskets while the engine is out...just waiting on my Bentley to get here so I know how.

Thanks CRU62. I'll sleep better tonight.

Clara, the vibration is while stationary but goes away when I press the clutch. In fact, it's only noticeable while stationary. I thought it might be due to 50 year old tranny mounts, but the PO replaced them and they look good.

[Campy]

Normally, a flywheel will have a mark by an edge, and the same thing for a pressure plate. The two marks should be spaced 180 degrees apart.
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Don't worry; be happy. (Baba)

[Hokie87]

[cru62]

Nope. My bad. I missed the part about your engine being out for the tank.

If you have a spare disc, try swapping that in for the one you have now to see if anything is different. If it gets better or worse you know that is the problem. If it stays the same it could just be something in the transmission. Both the gear stack and the clutch disc cease turning when the bus is at rest, in neutral and the clutch is disengaged. See if it does the same thing when the bus is rolling, in gear and the clutch is disengaged.

Of course, if it doesn't seem bad and/or you don't really mind that vibration, well, then, never mind!
_________________
"My biggest worry is that when I die, my wife will sell all my parts for what I told her I paid for them"-Jon

Jokes about German sausage are the wurst.

Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

[Clara]

have you done a compression check? you can do this w/o everything on the motor, as long as it is bolted to a tranny with a starter and a battery.

Have you checked the torque on the engine case nuts and the head nuts?

[Hokie87]

The rattle was the front engine tin. It was held on with one screw and there was a half inch of play in the tab that goes over the engine case at the flywheel. It just rattled back and forth.

New question:

While the engine was out, I:
1. Replaced the main seal
2. Replaced the throw out bearing
3. Adjusted the valve clearance
4. Replaced the spark plugs
5. Drained and refilled the transmission and RGB gear oil
6. Installed a thermostat
7. Cleaned and repainted the engine tin

The engine went back in without difficulty but now it won't turn. I was going to set the timing but when I tried to turn the pulley by hand to get it to #1 TDC it won't budge. Even with a wrench it is stuck. It turned fine before I installed it (had to to adjust the valve clearance). I backed the engine out 2 inches and it turns fine. It only binds when the flywheel is in the bell housing.

The transmission is in neutral and I confirmed this by pushing the bus. Rolls fine.

Is the flywheel hung up on the starter (I think unlikely without power to the starter) or the transmission bell housing (maybe not adequately clearance when converted to 12 V) or any other thoughts?

Thoughts on starting it when I can't turn it by hand?