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rockthebus
Samba Member
Joined: August 10, 2015
Posts: 7
Location: Derbyshire (UK)
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 Posted: Mon Aug 10, 2015 5:41 am Post subject: Oil LED and buzzer woes! |
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Hi All, my first post and probably not my last!
T3, 2.1WBX, LHD European import
Scenario: After sorting out a misfire, and cleaning all contacts in the engine bay. Misfire sorted, and she pulls the best ever!
Problem, is that when the ignition is switched on, on the low pressure switch side the LED flashed once and that's it. On the high pressure side, above 2000rpm the buzzer now sounds.
I've had the instrument cluster out, and tested continuity of pins 12 and 13 to earth, and the wiring on the low pressure side was broken. Fixed the break.
On the high pressure side, i've never replaced the switch, so that has been replaced.
Re-tested the wiring and all looks good. Measured continuity with ignition on and the low pressure side is open circuit, and goes closed circuit as soon as the engine is started. The high pressure side is open circuit, and goes closed circuit (but there is some resistance?) above 2000rpm.
After refitting the instruments, the LED now flashes continuously when the engine is running, and above 2000rpm the buzzer still sounds.
If all the wiring to the instruments is OK, what/how do I do next?
Really hope you can help.
Thanks in advance |
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dhaavers
Samba Member
Joined: March 19, 2010
Posts: 8478
Location: NE MN (tinyurl.com/dhaaverslocation)
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| Posted: Mon Aug 10, 2015 6:09 am Post subject: |
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Put a mechanical gauge on it and be sure it actually has good OP.
The new sender may be faulty, or that buzzer just might be working correctly... 
- Dave
_________________
86 White Wolfsburg Westy Weekender
"The WonderVan"
<EDITED TO PROTECT INNOCENT PIXELS> |
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crazyvwvanman
Samba Member
Joined: January 28, 2008
Posts: 10439
Location: Orbiting San Diego
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| Posted: Mon Aug 10, 2015 6:19 am Post subject: Re: Oil LED and buzzer woes! |
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The 2 switches are supposed to have opposite logic. Your description shows them as having the same logic so something is clearly wrong.
The low pressure switch is supposed to be grounded to the engine when pressure is low. Then it opens when pressure is good.
The high pressure switch is supposed to be open when pressure is low and then goes to engine ground when pressure is good.
Mark
| rockthebus wrote: |
..................
Re-tested the wiring and all looks good. Measured continuity with ignition on and the low pressure side is open circuit, and goes closed circuit as soon as the engine is started. The high pressure side is open circuit, and goes closed circuit (but there is some resistance?) above 2000rpm...... |
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rockthebus
Samba Member
Joined: August 10, 2015
Posts: 7
Location: Derbyshire (UK)
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| Posted: Mon Aug 10, 2015 7:11 am Post subject: |
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| Before I go away and recheck the wiring, is the yellow wire in the engine bay the low pressure and the blue/black the high pressure? Maybe they are reversed? |
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crazyvwvanman
Samba Member
Joined: January 28, 2008
Posts: 10439
Location: Orbiting San Diego
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| Posted: Mon Aug 10, 2015 7:31 am Post subject: |
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The yellow wire is for the high pressure switch. If you mix up the 2 wires the alarms will never end.
Mark
| rockthebus wrote: |
| Before I go away and recheck the wiring, is the yellow wire in the engine bay the low pressure and the blue/black the high pressure? Maybe they are reversed? |
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rockthebus
Samba Member
Joined: August 10, 2015
Posts: 7
Location: Derbyshire (UK)
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| Posted: Mon Aug 10, 2015 8:00 am Post subject: |
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| crazyvwvanman wrote: |
The yellow wire is for the high pressure switch. If you mix up the 2 wires the alarms will never end.
Mark
| rockthebus wrote: |
| Before I go away and recheck the wiring, is the yellow wire in the engine bay the low pressure and the blue/black the high pressure? Maybe they are reversed? |
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Thanks Mark. Home in an hour. I'll take another look. |
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rockthebus
Samba Member
Joined: August 10, 2015
Posts: 7
Location: Derbyshire (UK)
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| Posted: Mon Aug 10, 2015 10:16 am Post subject: |
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Hi Mark, and thanks for your wisdom.
The PO had rewired the connectors in the connector connection back to front!
All sorted now and working as expected!
Glyn |
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rockthebus
Samba Member
Joined: August 10, 2015
Posts: 7
Location: Derbyshire (UK)
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| Posted: Mon Aug 10, 2015 10:33 am Post subject: |
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| dhaavers wrote: |
Put a mechanical gauge on it and be sure it actually has good OP.
The new sender may be faulty, or that buzzer just might be working correctly...
- Dave |
Thanks Dave, good advice. It's on my to do list!
Glyn |
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