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Globespotter
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Joined: February 16, 2012
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Location: Newmarket, ON
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Glenn 
Mr. 010
Joined: December 25, 2001
Posts: 80514
Location: Sneaking up behind you
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 Posted: Mon May 28, 2012 4:53 pm Post subject: |
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B goes to 1
A goes to 3
You're lucky you didn't cook your engine with the 031. It's has 32 degrees so your initial would of had to be 0 degrees if not a few ATDC.
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Glenn
74 Beetle Specs | 74 Beetle Restoration | 2180cc Engine
"You may not get what you pay for, but you always pay for what you get"
Member #1009
#BlueSquare
עַם יִשְׂרָאֵל חַי |
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Globespotter
Samba Member
Joined: February 16, 2012
Posts: 1785
Location: Newmarket, ON
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Glenn
Mr. 010
Joined: December 25, 2001
Posts: 80514
Location: Sneaking up behind you
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| Posted: Mon May 28, 2012 5:16 pm Post subject: |
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For the EGR valve.
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Glenn
74 Beetle Specs | 74 Beetle Restoration | 2180cc Engine
"You may not get what you pay for, but you always pay for what you get"
Member #1009
#BlueSquare
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Globespotter
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Joined: February 16, 2012
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Location: Newmarket, ON
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vw_hank
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Joined: February 07, 2001
Posts: 5371
Location: Everett WA
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| Posted: Mon May 28, 2012 5:40 pm Post subject: |
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your in good hands with Glenn,, hes the dizzy guy 
LOL Glenns A dizy guy
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1302s sunroof..
1600cc motor. Glenn ring 010. full toplineparts.com suspension. factory front disk brakes. Tram type-3 rear brakes. Hurst shifter. empi-8's. low-back's. tons of mods! |
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Glenn
Mr. 010
Joined: December 25, 2001
Posts: 80514
Location: Sneaking up behind you
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| Posted: Mon May 28, 2012 5:43 pm Post subject: |
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| ERIC WC wrote: |
| Oh, and what is the timing on the original dist? |
| Quote: |
| Timing Set At:: 5deg ATDC @ 800-950rpm w/strobe, vacuum hose(s) connected. |
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Glenn
74 Beetle Specs | 74 Beetle Restoration | 2180cc Engine
"You may not get what you pay for, but you always pay for what you get"
Member #1009
#BlueSquare
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Globespotter
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Joined: February 16, 2012
Posts: 1785
Location: Newmarket, ON
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HRVW
Samba Member
Joined: May 01, 2011
Posts: 2531
Location: Rosarito, Mexico
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| Posted: Mon May 28, 2012 9:30 pm Post subject: |
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 I have a 1968-9 912 dist (points are backwards comparewd to the 009.
Inherited it in a VW bug I once bought ages ago...still have it today along with extra ppints etc. The 912 dist has a nice advance with the vac over the VW 009 dist.
Do believe going to a dual vac dist over the 912 unit would be a waste.
How much do you want for that OLD 912 dist? |
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Cadaver
Samba Member
Joined: April 24, 2012
Posts: 2338
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| Posted: Tue May 29, 2012 6:01 am Post subject: |
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there are 2 issues.
is your carb stock? orig. , seems so. and good.
then the disty which is always first to check out.
if you bought a Bentleys, you get this below and the curves.
i'd never run any disty with out the curves and buying 10 disty, just to find one
not bad ,or hacked is not too effective. IMO, but luck happens, so i wish you luck , sure do......
see that 9-12 deg (this is mfg variances, crude back in the day) This vacuum advance
is what gives you that extra grunt off the line. make city driving a dream and increases MPG. ALL GOOD, NO BAD.
When you move the gas foot down, the vacuum drops and the advance is robust !
you motor smiles and burns the gas far more efficiently (not puked out those pea shooters  )
so take your old SVDA.
static time it.
then idle the motor. at 900 RPM (spec)
now attach the vacuum hand tool to the vac can.
suck it down. (pump handle) did you get 9deg? if yes, its working.
if you want proof. the put in a T fitting and monitor the vacuum with the same
tool and make sure the vacuum is correct at idle. and that it drops vacuum at WOT.
Blip the throttle and see the vacuum drop like stone. (SVSA owners dont read this please, its NOT like yours at all, start your own posts)
you must be connected to the correct vacuum port, some carbs have up to 3 ports
none are the same. each has a purpose.
these tests are in the Bentleys, why people shy from books, i dont know.
on new cars i use Alldata(tm) but on VW, its Bentleys, every car mech uses books or
uses online full spec. so he dont have to guess, and make costly mistakes.
your question of which is best, is easy?
answer: the stock parts.
and the stock parts that still work and are not hacked.
only testing them solves this riddle, not others guessing or wondering.
SSDD, as we call it in a shop.
I dont know, but then i dont know your goals or utility. (racing DD, GG, toy, or ?)
good luck and ask lots of questions.
| Quote: |
from old folks home.
Distributor: VW 113-905-205AJ, Bosch 0231 167 049 > 043-905-205C, 0231 176 028
Can Use: VW 113-905-205AN, Bosch 0231 167 070 or 043-905-205C, 0231 176 028
Points: 01 011
Points Replacement Plate Assy: VW 311-905-227A, Bosch 1237 110 064
Condensor: 02 054
Rotor: 04 033
Dust Cover: 039-905-241, Bosch 1230 500 139 > 1230 500 147
Cap: 03 010
Distributor Cap Clip: 034-905-265, Bosch 1231 251 033
Parts Kit (Shims, Washers & Hardware): 059-998-211, Bosch 1237 010 007
Coil: 00 015 (Blue Coil: 00 012)
Vacuum Can: 07 223 (1237 122 969) (Formerly 07 091 [1237 121 851]
Ignition Wires: 09 001
Spark Plug: W8AC
Timing Set At:: 5deg ATDC @ 800-950rpm w/strobe, vacuum hose(s) connected.
Advance/Retard Range: Vacuum: 9-12deg Adv, 11-13deg Ret; Centrifugal: 6-12deg @ 1500rpm, 22-25deg @ 3800rpm |
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in Samba classifieds....1968 T1.
Last edited by Cadaver on Tue May 29, 2012 8:01 am; edited 4 times in total |
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Globespotter
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Location: Newmarket, ON
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Cadaver
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Joined: April 24, 2012
Posts: 2338
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| Posted: Tue May 29, 2012 8:29 am Post subject: |
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return it to stock
then set the timing correctly (RTM)
test the timing functions to make sure they still work (vac and mech)
then drive the car. See of power and MPG are good, no pinging. no bogs..
if these parts don't work right, find out why and correct it.
at least your car has stock parts and are known.
the disty is the easiest
you check the advance by the book ( tuned up, is given,points at .016")
and for jitter.
and for misfire.
and advance rate, if happy, the disty is now working correctly
last you the address the carb tuning.
the carb can be bad, have bad parts, wrong parts. or maladjusted.
wrong jets. clogs, drilled jets both fuel and air and can have a dead/weak
high speed accelerator pump (bogs then catches up?)
i'd replace that HSAP diaphragm part pronto, so it dont crack and start a fire.
some cars have clone carbs that look stock and are not. but can be tuned to work great. see Rob and dave for the story on that.
that is my idea of points to ponder, in this regard. Carb-disty matching.
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for sale now.
in Samba classifieds....1968 T1. |
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Globespotter
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Globespotter
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vwjim70
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Joined: December 12, 2014
Posts: 6
Location: So Cal
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| Posted: Sun Dec 06, 2015 9:36 am Post subject: Re: Swapping back to original Dist - where to put vac lines? |
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Hi
i have a 74 SB and i am putting a new 34 pict 3 carb on..
however, on the new carb the advance hookups are different..
referring to the reply to the original post, it says to hook B to 1 and A to 3..
What can i do if I do not have a 1 but i have a #2?
can i hook up B to 2?
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ashman40
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Joined: February 16, 2007
Posts: 16777
Location: North Florida, USA
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| Posted: Sun Dec 06, 2015 9:55 am Post subject: Re: Swapping back to original Dist - where to put vac lines? |
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| vwjim70 wrote: |
i have a 74 SB and i am putting a new 34 pict 3 carb on..
however, on the new carb the advance hookups are different..
referring to the reply to the original post, it says to hook B to 1 and A to 3..
What can i do if I do not have a 1 but i have a #2?
can i hook up B to 2? |
It would help if you had a vacuum gauge or a vacuum hand pump with a gauge. Connect it to port #2 and take some vacuum readings at different rpms. You want to see max vacuum at idle. This will activate the vacuum retard only at idle and not at any other time.
Then test the vacuum retard by connecting B to #2 and watching the timing marks under the strobe light. When the hose is connected the timing should be 8-12deg retarded from when the hose is removed.
The second option is to just leave the B nipple disconnected/open and run your DVDA distributor as an SVDA. Just use the vacuum advance (A) port on the distributor/carb. Also test this by connecting the A port to a vacuum source and confirming the timing advances.
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AshMan40
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'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road  }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!} |
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vwjim70
Samba Member
Joined: December 12, 2014
Posts: 6
Location: So Cal
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| Posted: Sun Dec 06, 2015 10:01 am Post subject: Re: Swapping back to original Dist - where to put vac lines? |
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I'll give it a try.
Thank you for the response! |
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