Steering column ignition switch

[zak414]

I've got an ignition switch mounted to my steering column. I've searched and found some info on this setup, but still have some questions:

I'm looking to get this switch functioning again, but I don't have a key for it. How can I get one?

When the car was new, would it have had the hole in the dash next to the ash tray for the typical ignition switch location, or would that have been drilled out after the column switch failed?

Thanks.
_________________
1962 Bug
40 HP Engine
28 Pict Carb rebuilt by Volkzbitz
Big Cap Distributor rebuilt by Tasb

[Drewmon]

I have a 66 with the column key as well. I do not have the extra hole in the dash for the ignition switch. Your car may have had a column from another car installed into it. I know that the removal of the column key section is not very fun. The actual ignition part is easy with 2 screws on the back of it holding it in.

[glutamodo]

Key: Remove the lock and send it to Gabriel? I've used reverse-rotation drill bits on factory shear bolts before, they often end up unscrewing the bolt before you get the head of the bolt drilled through.

There would have been no hole in the dash had it come stock with a column lock switch.

_________________
Andy T.

"What is Glutamodo, Horror of Toyko, besides total, fiendish, quality-a-you brain!"

[tonys1pr]

I have a similar layout on my 66. My ignition/lock switch assembly was a Neiman 129, don't make the mistake I did of drilling out the lock as it is impossible to find a replacement lock assembly. I had to buy another complete column lock through the classified just to get the lock and key assembly.

Does your car have emergency flasher switch? It would appear that the position of this switch has varied over the years and within the same model year. The hole in my dash panel would not allow an ignition switch to be fitted but was the correct size for the emergency flasher switch.

Unfortunately I cannot confirm this as when I bought my car it had been dismantled for the past 10 years and various electrical components had gone missing.... But that is where I will be installing my switch.

[KTPhil]

A few notes about this switch... it is nearly impossible to find parts for it, so proceed carefully. It is not just a switch, it also physically locks the steering column from rotating like on modern cars. There are two tabs welded to the internal column shaft to interface with this switch.

The electrical part is rare and subject to failure. This is one of the few cases where I recommend a "hard start relay," which removes the solenoid current from the fragile ignition switch circuit; only the relay trigger current passes through it. Some go so far as to use a pair of relays, so even the ignition (and radio and brakes and wipers) also are isolated from the switch. The idea is to limit how much current passes through the ignition switch contacts, which will lengthen their life.

This was a more common option on European models, which in '67 remained 6V; this meant double the current of the 12V models, so the relay setup is even more important.

[Buck Naked]

The shear bolts and new electrical portion were available from CIP1 about a year ago. If you need keys made contact Gabriel at http://gabvwkey.com
I was lucky, when I removed my lock the key code sticker was still intact and readable. I emailed him and he cut new keys from that code worked perfect.
Shane
_________________
Be unique, like everyone else.
'63 Beetle Ragtop

[zak414]

Ok. So I'm thinking a hole was drilled in the dash for the current functioning ignition switch. The switch is a little loose in the hole, so it probably wasn't done at the factory.

Can I repair the electrical portion of the column switch without removing the whole assembly? Also is it worth it to repair it? Sounds like electrical is prone to failure.
_________________
1962 Bug
40 HP Engine
28 Pict Carb rebuilt by Volkzbitz
Big Cap Distributor rebuilt by Tasb

[Buck Naked]

Yes, electrical portion can be replaced without removing lock portion from car. I think its worth it. While not `rare` you don`t see them very often in the US. Plus it adds more security for your car. If you are worried about it do like KTPhil advised and add relay(s) to completely remove the heavy electrical load from the switch.
if you do take the whole assembly out of the car you`ll need these:
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=VWC-111-905-881

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=VWC-111-905-881-D
They are different lengths.
This is the electrical portion that i used:
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=VWC-111-905-865-E

Shane
_________________
Be unique, like everyone else.
'63 Beetle Ragtop