Things to do when your engine is out after 30 years of storage

[id'r]

My bus was a driver when parked 30 years years ago, with no known significant issues with the transmission, engine or RGBs. Before removing the engine, I checked the compression and found it to be quite low, with a glimmer of good news: less than 5 psi deviation (80 psi average) between holes. Tired engine, but it runs quite well and I'm willing to run it around to see how it does. Engine is now out and I'm going to take the tin off, make sure the fins are clean and replace all accessible seals without taking the heads off. Reinstall, and see how it goes.

While it's out, I'm making a list of opportunistic and (essential) things to do. Hoping for any feedback on what I should just do, regardless of diagnosing. I'm 100% willing to just replace parts vs save questionable things (i.e., even if the clutch disk looks good, I'm replacing it). I need to build a spares arsenal anyway. I'd prefer to leave the transmission in place if possible, pending a future test drive to see if any bigger issues present themselves.

I think I have a comprehensive plan, but I just know that I'm going to miss something stupid if I don't ask thesamba. Here's the basic plan:

Clutch & Transmission
• new input shaft seal
• new disc, plate and t/o bearing
• new boots?
• new transmission mounts??
• flywheel surface

Fuel System
• Remove tank and inspect for corrosion and address accordingly
• All new tank seals and mounting soft parts
• Bench test sender and gauge (need to search how to do this)
• All new fuel lines and line grommet
• New sock?
• Note: I'm paranoid about fire and thinking about not running a plastic filter. Thoughts?

Engine
• See above

Brakes
• Rear brake flexible hose replacement (cuz it looks easy to do at the moment; brake system will be completely gone through later)

Heating System
• replace both rear flex hoses (has belly pans, so can't do middle ones)
• heater boxes seem to operate freely, no service planned

Anything on the RGBs that's easier with the engine out?

Thanks for any advice or input.
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https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=699902&highlight=65+barn+find

[bobrk]

I'm in pretty much the same boat. My bus has been parked for nearly 20 years, and probably needs most of the same stuff, at least in the engine/fuel areas.

I've started doing most of the stuff outside of the engine area, like redoing the brakes. I can say I've finished the soft brake lines, but that's about it. I'm also doing a lot of upgrades, including dual master cylinder and disc brakes in front as well as complete refurbishing of the rear brakes.

But I haven't done anything in the engine area other than make sure everything is still there.

Oh, you're probably gonna need a new battery. 😂
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1959 Single Cab “Otto”

1500 single port | 1963 small nut/big brake transaxle | CSP Disc Brakes | dual circuit m/c | Deutsch Polster seats

[hydro50]

When bringing my single cab back to life, I found many electrical connections, both spade and screw types, were marginal. I’d double check and clean up as many as you can along the way.
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Dang this Type II thing has gotten expensive!

[rking6]

You might think about having the inside of your fuel tank serviced and coated to prevent any further rust and residue ..Just a thought.. Good Luck !!

[Old Paint]

I wouldn't put off brake cylinders and master cylinder. I had a brake cylinder seize on my single cab after sitting for a few years. Before I was able to get off the freeway I realized I had a small fire. Fire is bad....
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Greg

1961 Ragtop
1961 Single Cab (Old Paint)

[Clara]

Definitely needs axle boots.
May not bother w. fw surfacing, if it looks fine rock it.
I run a plastic filter in the engine compartment. There are people with different opinions. I like a easy check.

Brakes- new cylinders as well as hoses.
You may want to run all new metal lines and master cylinder.
While installing new rear cylinders, install new rear axle seals.
Shoes may be good, maybe not. Sometimes the pads fall off after decades. How are yours?
are drums smooth? need turning?

no reason to replace rear heater tubes under bus if they are good.
there is no middle flex tube, it is solid.

top gear oil after the above.
After driving round and everything is stirred up, change gear oil.

Check steering.

Is engine tin complete? install thermostat and flaps if missing.
oil cooler seals
main seal

check generator brushes. Replace if low. This is much easier with generator off the engine than in the car.

lube all hinges.
lube suspension with bus jacked up.
lube door mechanisms

remove cables and re-install with grease?
clean and lube clutch cable threads, to make it easy to adjust.

30 year old tires can stand replacing. I mean, you can drive it round the block, but plan on new tires.

electrical/ lighting check. you may need to clean grounds/ bulbs/ connections.

I dunno where your bus was stored, but mice love to make homes in them.
pull front seat and clean under the seat and behind it.
MAKE SURE HEATER TUBE IS CLEAR before installing engine...

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The Obsolete Air-Cooled Documentation Project http://oacdp.org/

[id'r]

Great feedback, thank you!

Brakes have come up a bit. I was specifically thinking about items that should be addressed, or can be addressed easier when the engine is out (like the rear rubber lines). Definitely doing a full brake job. I have new shoes, spring kits and wheel cylinders ready on the shelf (master cylinder on order). We used to hone wheel cylinders and replace seal kits back in the day, but it looks like that's old news. Really hoping I don't have to due hard brake lines though.

[VWLady]

I'd also hit all the grease zerks on the front end with several pumps of grease while the weight is off the front end.

[BulliBill]

Make sure that you order real "C" or better yet "D" rated truck tires, NOT lesser more flexible sidewall passenger tires. Only C or D rating are safe enough for your Bus! There is a big discussion thread here about either 14" or 15" Bus-rated tires, read up!

Bill
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I'm looking for these license plate frames from old Volkswagen dealerships for my fleet:
Coeur D'Alene - Lake Shore Volkswagen
Mission VW - San Fernando
Thornton VW - Stockton

Thanks for any help!

[ToolBox]

Your old clutch parts might be better than some of the new crap sold now. I would just inspect them and send them out to be rebuilt/relined if needed.

For your starter trigger wire you could run a new 8ga wire for it of add a nice 50amp QUALITY weatherpac relay in the engine compartment to trigger the starter. A relay is a bit of a band aid but it does keep the high current off the switch. You could also have a dirty switch that needs cleaning. You can disassemble the switch to clean the electrical portion.

[Thompson2]

Once you've got it mostly sorted out, tear the fuse block out, clean the ends of all the wires and clean and solder all of the connections in the block. Add a dab of dielectric grease as you reattach all the wires. That'll make a huge difference in the power required to drive the lights and starter.

Replace all of the soft brake lines. They may look reasonable, but may be completely gunked up like this:

And post some damn pictures!

[Eric&Barb]

Add fuel reserve tap. So you can shut of fuel flow when there is a fire or just pulling the engine. Especially since about half of the type 2 fuel tank (except for the trucks) is higher than the carb, so it just flows downhill.
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In Stereo, Where Available!

[id'r]

[Eric&Barb]

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In Stereo, Where Available!

[Stocknazi]

I would definitely remove the tin and make sure there are no rat nests or other crap obstructing the flow of air around the cylinders/heads.

Good time to clean and paint the tin and re-torque the heads and replace the oil cooler seals too. A new flywheel seal wouldn't hurt either. Make sure your generator is GTG like Clara suggested and I think everything else you may need should be easy to do with the engine in the bus.

Change the oil and clean the screen, then drive short distances for a while. Change the oil again when it starts to look dark. Baby it around for a while until you get some miles accumulated.
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WANTED:
58 Westfalia cabinet knobs (3 needed), roof rack, and (7) privy tent poles (silver painted).

"When the people are afraid of the government, that's tyranny. But when the government is afraid of the people, that's liberty."
"The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time with the blood of patriots and tyrants."

Thomas Jefferson

[Eric&Barb]

[Clara]