66 coupe front end

[csc23]

Hello, Purchased a 66 coupe 6 months ago, been going through the mechanicals on it. I installed steering dampener,rag joint, new ball joints (notch lines up)tie rod ends, replaced long passenger side tie rod as it was bent. Also on this side the wheel has been replaced with a earlier smoothie at some point. I'm assuming someone hit something.

Tires are pretty decent. Then took it to get alignment. Really reputable shop, Use to get work done here 20+ years ago with my first car a 62 coupe. Anyway owner said couldn't get the camber right on passenger wheel. So every right hand turn tire squeals. Asked what he thought the problem was he replies possibly the beam is bent. Luckily my brother parted a 66 beetle got the beam and a correct slotted wheel.

So I stripped the beam checked it on a flat 3/8" steel table no rocking, measures the same side to side.I am 98% sure it is good and straight. I put the front of the car on jack stands. shimmed so the beam was level. Removed old beam and bolted "new" stripped beam in place. Then proceeded to check the measurements I took before removing the old one. Everything is in the exact same place.

This is where it gets interesting. If I physically pull a measurement from the shock tower to the inside opening of the gas tank there is a 5/8" difference from side to side. And the beam is parallel with the foot well panel. I would think even though these had a great amount of hand work the tolerances would be closer than that. Next I put a 4' level across the opening of the hood and with the beam leveled it is 1" out of level. Which kinda makes sense the angle of the shock tower appears to be about ~1/2"run for every 1" of rise. Measuring from inside top of the well to top of shock tower I get the same 1" difference from side to side.

Any other suggestions to check the frame head with the body on? Inside the hood all looks good some rust but straight. No collision damage in the inner fenders(Minimal undercoating all factory paint) taking a measurement from the corner of the frame head diagonally to the lip of fender well is the same side to side. The top of the beam to the body mounts are same side to side.

The pan and body numbers match and does not appear to have been separated. So what am i missing? Do i level the body then take measurements from beam to a level floor? Basically i'm trying to make sure everything i put back is new if bad and good if old. Same shop has a jig to check torsion arms this will be done. Anyway to check spindles?

Any thoughts would be appreciated. I will attach some photos to see if someone sees something i don't.I appreciate any input. than you.

[motorhead364]

Everything looks pretty kosher but I'd say the frame head is bent or twisted. level the pan up with jack stands at the rear of the front fenders and the jack points at the rear. Then measure at the front of the front wheel well.

I'm wondering if the beam got pushed up when they bent a wheel. If it bent everything it would look straight but maybe 1/4 in off. Wouldn't be too noticeable sitting on the ground.

Also when you have the beam back out. Stick your head up in there and see if those body mount tabs are the same. Not one bent up.
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63 ghia coupe

[csc23]

Thanks for the reply, twisted frame head is what I was thinking too. Bummer. I crawled under there and took a closer look at those tabs. They look good, and when measured to the top of the gas tank opening they are the same side to side. However the space that the body pads sit in, the gap is 1/4" different from side to side. So I believe you and I are correct. That head got twisted. So what are my options? Can this be straightened? Right now the car is going to be driven and enjoyed. However would like to in the next year or two completely restore the car. Investing a great deal of time and money. Currently collecting all parts to do so. Advice? Thank you.

[motorhead364]

If the camber is not too bad you should be ok. The tire will wear a little more than the other is all I can think would be bad. Maybe a little bump steer. If you do a full body off then you may be able to straighten it up with some force. The hard part will be clamping the main tunnel to be able to twist it back without twisting up the pans. Might be best to cut it off and put a replacement frame head on.
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63 ghia coupe

[csc23]

Camber isn't great, spoke with a few shops today, got a couple referrals for one guy. Sounded pretty competent. Has an "old" machine for this he said. Bout 120.00$ to get it on there and check it out. 75.00$ p/hr after that. Gonna move forward with beam painting, check everything I put back on to make sure it's good. And drive over and let him take a look. See what can be done if anything. Then re-evaluate from there. Be a shame to lose a number matching pan that is pretty rust free. Would like to correct. Or get as close as possible. Not planning to sell the car, but if I did I think it would be harder if the frame head is twisted. And I would feel obligated to disclose that. Thanks. Anyone have any experience having this done?